WIBIMMERS

That is a great find! I love the purple. Retro MTB paint jobs are the best.  Ive been playing with bikes a lot lately. I finally built myself a 20" BMX after not having one since my early teens. Its a ton of fun on the pump tracks in 'Tosa and Brown Deer.  [image: image.thumb.png.881472a17f627ed8c6ecd59b34a8ead4.png]

I will add pics later, but progress is being made! (famous last words) E30 has the linkage modified, rack installed, pump rebuilt, and is waiting on one section of 14mm ID power steering hose to get fully bolted together. Gotta bend the high pressure line to fit it as well, hoping I can get it right the first time without kinking. After that, it gets bolted together and test driven. Fingers crossed. I also decided to put a new ATE clutch slave in with the new line since a) it already has to come out, b) the brand i bought apparently has a habit of stranding folks within a few thousand miles, c) ATE is the OEM manufacturer, and d) mine went to the floor once last year randomly and never did it again. I'll throw the old one in a ziploc in the trunk just in case though. For the line, I went to Pegasus and bought a premade -4an braided stainless brake/clutch hose. I got the 21" version with one end straight and one end at 90 degrees. I also grabbed a spare 24" hose section in case the 21" isn't long enough (I measured with a piece of baling wire, it was a ROUGH estimate) and a s a spare. Total cost for both hoses and the two brake fittings needed to go from AN to M10 bubble flare was less than the Chasebays premade part. We'll see how it is to install but it seems to be a good alternative if you want to ditch the stock multi-piece clutch hydraulic setup and spend closer to $40. I also took the time to solder and marine heatshrink the C191 connector wires. When the engine someday comes back out of the car, I will properly install a waterproof connector but for now it's permanent and i trust those more than butt splices on those itty bitty wires. I can't foresee a situation where I'd need the intake off without the head also coming off, at which point the engine is getting yanked anyways. Snagged some headlights from @The Full Banana earlier this year, and found that the lenses were already cut off of them. Going to heat and pry the busted lens out of my low beam and silicone the freshie in for now, and source a low beam U.S. ellipsoid housing/lens (driver's side, if anyone has one) to put in the other set and restore this summer when I have more time. Getting closer! Can't wait to get some shakedown miles in, the deadline for the vintage is creeping up fast.

Been slacking on driving and working on this. I've tossed around the idea of selling but don't think I can do it - it's too competent for the money, I have no idea what I would get to replace it short of a E9X M3, and i neither want to spend the money on that nor need another summer only car. Anywho, some maintenance!  149,000ish/January 2026 - new front struts, along with every associated wear item (bump stops, strut mounts, washers, dust boots, hardware) in the strut assembly. New top hats too cause they're cheap. Not sure if i put it in the last post, but I threw in some new Meyle HD front sway links last year too, so all the front suspension is brand new save the springs themselves and the tie rods, which feel fine. 150,074/This week: Oil change, LM Special Tech 5W-30 and a Mann filter. SO easy to do on these cars, I wish my F250 had a filter insert. So much less mess. I held off on driving this car this winter until late January to keep salt off (I needed to take it to get an emissions test to renew the registration), and I think in addition to some strategic fluid film this summer, I will likely park it next winter fully unless the truck breaks. Not worth smashing the front bumper on an ice chunk or risking some yahoo sliding through an intersection into it, plus salt=gross.

I had some timing cover leaks that I had to fix.  [image: ] Brakes are done. I used stainless hard lines which do not seal as well at the fittings as NiCopp lines. I had couple small leaks. A bit more torque at the fittings fixed the issue.  Clutch hydraulic lines are done and it looks like clutch works ok. I put driveshaft, diff and axles in. Tightened whole front suspension minus tie rods.  I still need to shorten stock e36 tie rods for this setup to work. I have a z4 manual rack that I will put in I just need to figure out the splines. I hope they are the same as e36 rack so I could reuse my Woodward u-joints.   Valve cover lost its beautiful blue color for the more modest wrinkle black [image: ] The stupid intake manifold flange was warped. And my shitty welds were full of pinholes. No wonders that I could not set the idle below 1.2k rpm.  [image: ][image: ]  2 hours later and the flange started too look flat again   [image: ] I spent whole evening chasing pinholes. I think I got them all. I welded new downpipe and rest of the exhaust. Its a 3" going into borla XR-1 muffler to Vibrant super quiet resonator and side exits on the driver side.  I still need to weld a beauty ring for the side exit. I got a 4" stainless  pipe for this.  [image: ][image: ] [image: ]

pynacl said: Also bought an N54 intake manifold and plan to retrofit that when the garage is warm enough (too poor for a heater). Choosing this route over the 330 “3 stage” intake swap to avoid dealing with pesky DISA valves - the power gains are pretty similar: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1902505 I understand modifying an N52 is relatively pointless, but I’m doing it for the sheer sport of it. Isnt that why we are all doing BMW things?

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Anyone going this year? I went last year and had a ball, anyone who’s anyone should consider attending! https://www.atthevintage.com Beyond the mind meltingly cool cars (S38 swapped E9, anyone?), it’s a fantastic group of degenerates that all love this old iron and want to keep them on the road. I met so many people with wonderful stories to tell, from a woman who took Euro delivery of her ‘76 2002 and still owns it, to teenagers buying their first projects, and everything in between. I’ve been less active with cars the last few years but this brought it back fast. Like the sticker says, do it for the kink.  [image: IMG\_9278.jpeg] [image: IMG\_9348.jpeg] [image: IMG\_9423.jpeg]

Hey all - I have some random stuff I figured I’d list in case anyone needed it before it got tossed.    EDIT: HUSCO is sold! Everything else I still have. Probably going to toss the auto trans this spring when I clean all the extra shit out of the storage unit. Auto trans for a M20. Shifted fine, has around 204k on it. Fluid looked good. I probably have most of the linkages and stuff for it laying around still? Pulled to manual swap. $free.99 [image: IMG\_0603.jpeg][image: IMG\_0605.jpeg] Factory catback. Off brand, pretty sure it’s a Bosal? Small rust hole, otherwise fine. Perfect to use for the front section pipes, gut it, or patch the small hole and replace your even rustier crapcan exhaust. $40? [image: IMG\_0609.jpeg][image: IMG\_0611.jpeg][image: IMG\_0612.jpeg][image: IMG\_0613.jpeg] Standard 4-spoke steering wheel. In solid shape, I couldn’t bring myself to throw it without checking here first. Just dirty I believe, no major dings or tears/wear.  [image: IMG\_0640.jpeg][image: IMG\_0639.jpeg][image: IMG\_0641.jpeg] E30 Husco armrest. Top vinyl is bad but new covers are available for like $120 on eBay. Metal all looks good. $100obo for the WIBimmers folks? [image: IMG\_0838.jpeg][image: IMG\_0839.jpeg][image: IMG\_0840.jpeg][image: IMG\_0841.jpeg][image: IMG\_0842.jpeg][image: IMG\_0843.jpeg][image: IMG\_0844.jpeg][image: IMG\_0845.jpeg][image: IMG\_0846.jpeg][image: IMG\_0847.jpeg]

Tossing these out there for the crew - I have a set of 15” IX weaves that need some love but are complete. All caps are present and would be excellent wheels with a repaint. I initially was going to refinish but decided I’d rather sell and fund a 5 lug swap so I can go to larger brakes and run my M System turbines instead. Asking $450 OBO Pics: will be added tomorrow - forgot to take some. Tires still on, paint peeling, yadda yadda

Only if it's a set of 3

Thanks. Already have the posting update set on FBM. Not a surprise that more common listings for the e46 xi models show up for Minnesota and Michigan There have been a few for WI though more often for full cars in the $1.5 to $3k range. Working on this thing I can see why, everything up front is much harder to deal with than the RWD models.    LKQ in MKE allows yard access ($3 entry fee) and much to my surprise in November they did get a more recent addition of a 2004 330xi that I managed to get to a few days after it showed up. I picked up the driver's fender and lower fender liner, as well as a driver's side front door. Passenger side on that car had taken the hit, suspension was stock/blown, and driveline bits went early. Prices are not too bad, and you can waive the 90-day return guarantee add-on fee and, in some cases, return a "core" which drops the parts cost further.

FB link:  https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/24546213091739826/ Located near West Bend, HMU if you want them!

I finally got a windshield gasket!

Glad to see it back on the road

Looks fantastic! We gotta get the cars out sometime together this summer, it’ll probably motivate me to buy new wheels to keep up

Cyrus said: Hey bro, I have your old alpine/modena e36 shoot me a message on instagram @cyrusfara would be cool to meet up Hey! That's great to hear that this car is still local and being enjoyed! Id love to check it out sometime!

Assan jethmal said: Are those Crenshaw classics still for sale? Would like to buy!! 415-610-0803 they appear to have been sold a while back Jdesign said: S O L D

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Don't miss it, less than a month away!! https://facebook.com/events/s/badger-bimmers-spring-picnic/985996972883475/[image: Messenger\_creation\_142153E6-27F4-4AFB-870A-25D99026CDE0.jpeg]