Alpine e30 progress/build thread

[Jdesign]

m42b32 said:

@Jdesign looks like he can't get the info since the e24 started production before 1983, bummer... you don't see many in that color combo!

I see and I replied. I have yet to see another online ANYWHERE with the same color combo and options 

[m42b32]

Did some things!

I got the adapter harness ready to install by covering all the sections that were bare wire with braided sleeve to keep it tidy, and cut the heater hose ends out of the old hoses so I can start messing around with those. E36 M3 clutch lines fit perfectly, ready to bleed the clutch/brakes. I'd like to get them bled before I can't reach everything to check for leaks, so that's next on the agenda. 

Got the front suspension all bolted back together. Finally installed the 1/2" roll center spacers I've had sitting around for a while. Unfortunately, Garagistic is the only one who still sold 1/2" spacers and big surprise, they didn't fit at all. Had to drill out all 4 holes from 5/16" to 3/8" so I could get the bolts in, and also file down the ridge they keys into the strut housing as it was too tall. These had to have been made by hand by a blind dude on a crappy mill, no CNC machine has tolerances that bad...

Test fit the front wheel and I'm glad I didn't go any larger, I have about 1/4" of clearance so that's perfect (hard to see in the pic, you get the idea). 

Then I got bored so I did a test fit of these wheels for fun. No they aren't real, they're some Barbarossa AC Schnitzer style wheels I traded some DS2's for a few years ago. Some people say they were an early run for ACS, but I'm pretty sure they're reps like Alutecs/etc. though they appear to be pretty high quality and are real 3 piece. They are 17x7.5, with an offset probably around 35,  they fit really well with a 10mm spacer. I'm thinking I might refinish these as trial run before I do the BBS's. Only problem is two barrels are slightly bent and new ones would have to be custom made, any recommendations in the greater Milwaukee area for having wheels straightened? 

[Jdesign]

Hmmm. If they are real 3pc wheels I would do some deep digging.

Are they 40 hole? How much do they weigh?

[m42b32]

Jdesign said:

Hmmm. If they are real 3pc wheels I would do some deep digging.

Are they 40 hole? How much do they weigh? 

Yup 40 hole, there isn't much info about them online, nobody has really documented any re-sizing, just comments about 'probably custom'. Any idea where I could find a list or something with common lip dimensions like the bore size for the face, hole pattern diameter, etc? Not sure how much they weigh, they don't feel heavy though

[Jdesign]

m42b32 said:

Yup 40 hole, there isn't much info about them online, nobody has really documented any re-sizing, just comments about 'probably custom'. Any idea where I could find a list or something with common lip dimensions like the bore size for the face, hole pattern diameter, etc? Not sure how much they weigh, they don't feel heavy though

Wheelwhores or stanceworks is a good start. not sure. I will say that from what I read, the 40holes are reps, but extremely high quality to the point of them not being "reps"

[m42b32]

Jdesign said:

Wheelwhores or stanceworks is a good start. not sure. I will say that from what I read, the 40holes are reps, but extremely high quality to the point of them not being "reps"

You're definitely right. I did some more looking last night and found one or two instances where someone was selling some Barbarossa ACS wheels that were 16" or even 4x100, neither of which ACS ever produced (in 3 piece) as far as I am aware. I think its a pretty safe bet that they're technically reps, just an oddly high quality 3 piece rep haha

[Jdesign]

It seem like they were probably made at a time when the smaller wheel company's were getting swallowed up. Thus you get a short run of these high quality wheels. Some designs stayed and adapted into the larger brands, others just disappeared. That's pretty much the story with my Eclairs. Info on them is unobtainable.

[straight6pwr]

Jdesign said:

That's pretty much the story with my Eclairs. Info on them doughnut exist

fixed.

[KaiserRolls]

Just got caught up on this. Great work Joe

[m42b32]

Got the power steering pump sorted! Sourced a pair of E36 M52 power steering pump brackets that rotate the pump enough for the feed line to clear the oil pan

Once I got the inner bore of the ECS power steering pump pulley enlarged enough to fit I got the pump mounted and serpentine belt installed. 

With that done I started working on the secondary engine harness. The harness I have is from an automatic e39 530i, so after a lot of going cross-eyed over wiring diagrams and connector pin-outs I removed all the wiring for the automatic trans and post-cat O2 sensors (as I will be coding them out), as well as a few other miscellaneous connections on both the secondary and main harness. Only thing left is dealing with the wiring for the e39 e-box fan and temp sensor, as it appears to be tapped into some other wires running to necessary connectors so I want to be sure I can remove it without disrupting any necessary functions.

Some of what I've removed so far:

Cleaned up secondary engine harness. E-box fan wiring and sensor are the brass temp sensor and white 3 pin connector, those will likely be removed before I re-wrap everything and install on the car. 

Not pictured: I sorted out the starter wiring with an M20 starter cable (m42 cable is integrated into the engine harness), removed all the e39 specific grommets/fittings on the harnesses and started re-wrapping the sections near the DME, started installing and routing the adapter harness.

[m42b32]

More work done yesterday!

Removed the e-box fan wiring and sensor, re-wrapped some sections, and the secondary engine harness is ready to go:

I found a good deal on a UUC DSSR but it is the 189mm version and not the 198mm that the ZF requires. Fortunately, I had a brand new late model e30 shifter rod joint on the old g240 that is approximately 9mm longer than the ZF part. Using that joint with the 189mm DSSR works perfectly, hopefully there is enough clearance for the giubo. 

I ran it through the gears a few times and the shifter feel is incredible with the DSSR and new detents, the throw is a little bit longer than with the g240 (which is good, it felt a little too short last year). 

On M54 swaps there really isn't a perfect answer to what to use for heater hoses and the only documented solution that fits without kinks for the lower hose is a section of hose from an e9x that costs over $100. I happened to have a piece of an e36 s52 expansion tank return hose laying around, and there is an S bend section of it that wound up working really well. 

Test fit the intake manifold to make sure everything clears, and after some adjustment to the starter cable it fits no problem:

Plenty of clearance for the booster:

I did more wire harness cleanup, finalized everything at the B+ junction, re-installed the m42 harness cover, and routed everything through the hole in the firewall. You can also see how the lower heater hose fits in this pic too.

B+ junction close up:

Everything pulled into the passenger foot well and connected where possible, hopefully it fits under the dash without filling the glove box... 

[m42b32]

Didn't have the tool for the oil filter cap on the wagon so I gave up on that and worked on this all Saturday afternoon instead. 

The M42 wire harness cover holds the harness really high up in the engine bay and interferes with my Mason Engineering strut brace that I would really like to retain, so I came up with this to manage all the harnesses:

It's a piece of 1/4" steel rod formed to the contours of the HVAC cover with a few nuts welded to it. It mounts to the attachment points of the old M42 cover base and provides a really sturdy place to secure all the harnesses. You can also see in that picture that I sorted out the heater hoses at the firewall. The upper return hose is a trimmed Gates 28468 (5/8" hose with a sharp 90 bend at one end). It is nearly touching the manifold so I added a piece of braided harness cover at the contact point to prevent abrasion of the hose. That hose will tee into the return line from the head before going to the expansion tank. 

With the heater hoses and wiring sorted the next thing to do is install the intake manifold! Its a tight fit and there are a few connectors underneath that are an absolute PITA, but its on and doesn't foul anything so I'm calling that a win. The wire harnesses are nicely secured and look nice and tidy above the manifold. There is still some arranging to do where they pass through the firewall, but I will finish that once I have the harness made for the water temp/oil temp/ oil pressure gauge senders.

I also had to remove the charcoal canister, I wanted to try and make that fit but unfortunately it would've completely blocked access to the rear brake bias valve, so back out it went. I may look into mounting a canister from a newer car somewhere else, but for now I will just vent it with a filter. 

I'm getting to the point where I can reasonably quantify the remaining tasks needed to start the car in a list, which is exciting. If it all goes reasonably well, I'm hoping for a first start before the end of January. Here's what I have left on the engine:

- Find appropriate length fuel line to connect fuel rail to FPR at frame rail, connect vacuum line to FPR. Add filter for vent line.

- Finish gauge sender harness

- Re-tap upper radiator hose adapter to M14x1.5 for e30 cluster temp sensor, add second 1/8-27 NPT port for VDO gauge sender. 

- Find and mount coolant expansion tank, route remaining heater hoses. 

- Figure out upper/lower radiator hoses. Add coolant. 

- Source power steering high pressure line, mount reservoir in e46 location, sort out feed/return. Add fluid. 

- Install intake boots, source MAF. 

- Source/install headers and O2 sensors

- Brake booster vacuum line and check valve

- Install catch can/pcv and route hoses

- Add oil (I should really do this asap so I don't forget)

As far as making it to the picnic:

- Re-mount gas pedal (mounting bracket epoxy let go)

- Bleed brakes

- Bleed clutch

- Install giubo, CSB, e36 m3 driveshaft

- Re-install heat shields and complete exhaust 

- Install rebuilt 3.15LSD diff with new condor bushing.

- Connect intake to factory airbox or fab up a custom intake box. 

- Wire up horn/relay harness

- Install 16" Spal pusher fan

- Complete modified center console with VDO gauges, engine fan override switch, E36 window switches, and OBD2 port. 

- Modify ECU flash to eliminate speed sensor RPM limit, force emissions readiness, etc.

[m42b32]

Finally making progress again! Life got in the way in the form of an unexpected move thanks to a LOT of water, illness, the holidays, and obviously some laziness....

I ended up realizing that any OEM BMW quick connect fuel line was both too expensive and wouldn't fit very well with the route I needed it to take. I was able to get some quality AN/adapter fittings and hose for the same cost and the fit is perfect. On the fuel rail I have a 5/16" SAE quick connect to 6AN hose adapter, connected to some nylon braided 6AN hose, a 90 degree 6AN hose end, to another 6AN male to 5/16" SAE female quick connect adapter on the FPR housing. 

While the fuel rail was out I installed new viton o-rings and filters on the injectors

I think the bottom o-rings were a little large (or possibly because it was 20F in the garage) as it was a HUGE struggle to reinstall the injectors into the manifold. I ended up having to do them one at a time into the manifold, and then install the fuel rail/clips afterwards...

I also installed a Chase Bays power steering high pressure line. This was much easier and cleaner than trying to adapt a factory line.

[m42b32]

Made some progress on the center console. The console is from an early model coupe without the window breaker so I will be hiding that underneath the shift boot. I cut out the bottom and back of the storage tray to make room for the gauges and wiring, added some screws for the gauge panel to sit on, and got it installed. I still have to do some minor adjustments to get it to sit a little better, but it looks good so far! I also filed out the window switch pockets to make room for some e36 window switches. The switches I got have the right flat bezel but are the one touch switches so I'll have to get some different ones to wire them up. I also added a cutout for a sedan power window lockout button that I will be re-purposing as an electric fan switch. 

I also sorted out the oil dipsitck. The e34 m50 oil dipstick tube didn't work very well with the m54 intake manifold. I happened to have an e36 m50 dipstick laying around (at least I think that's what it's from) and the shape of it works significantly better on the m54 after a bit of tweaking

(e34 top, e36 bottom)

With the dipsticks installed, I measured the location of the 'full' mark relative to the o-ring seat on the tube. The e36 tube sits around 1/4" higher, so I cut a new notch in the dipstick that matched the fill height of the e34 part. Conveniently, the bottom of the flat section aligns close enough with where the minimum line would be. 

[m42b32]

Spent all day on the car and made a ton of progress!

My initial plan was to attempt to use the original e30 charcoal canister to avoid any gas smell coming from the fuel tank vent line, but that proved impossible to retain so I picked up a small filter and mounted it to a bracket up near the brake booster to keep it away from any water/excessive dirt/etc. 

I pulled the radiator back out and installed a SPAL 16" medium profile pusher fan. It's a tight fit vertically so I had to fold over the bottom seam of the core support to get it to clear. The fan is currently wired up to be always on with ignition, but I'll be changing that to a temperature switch with a manual override button before the summer. 

I also got the upper radiator hose sorted out. I used a 1/5" continental 60859 (straight with a 90 degree bend) and trimmed the ends until it all lined up. On the thermostat housing, I have the plastic quick connect fitting removed from an e46 upper radiator hose. I spliced in a radiator hose adapter with two ports, one for the VDO gauge sender and one for the original e30 cluster temp sensor. To get the e30 sensor to fit, I used a 1/4" NPT male to M14x1.5 female stainless steel adapter fitting and bored out the hole to allow the e30 sensor to pass through.  I still have to work out a way to ground the adapter so that the sensors read correctly. 

And finally after weeks of waiting (thanks to Fedex delivering things to the wrong address), I finally got my ebay headers. I didn't order the standard supersprint knockoffs because the rear O2 sensor points right at the firewall and the flange is fairly thin. On the M54 it doesn't have studs in all the openings, so I was worried about sealing and I need to run both o2 sensors. These headers were about twice the price (still cheap for headers), but they have a super thick flange that is sanded flat and have o2 sensor locations that looked promising. They aren't quite proper equal length but they should still be a massive improvement over the awful stock manifolds. They also have a ball flange at the end so I can either use the supplied secondary pipes or make my own. After some screwing around, I got them test fit on the car! 

Amazingly, they clear everything fairly well and I didn't have to mess with the flange holes to slide them on the studs. The rear O2 sensor placement isn't perfect, but I was able to massage the heat shield enough to make room for it. They are just about touching so I am going to put a high temp spark plug wire sleeve over it to pad them (the heat shield is soft and I have condor mounts so I'm not worried about engine movement, I just don't want it rubbing a hole). 

The other O2 sensor fits just fine (you can see the top of it in this photo)

The rear manifold is pretty close to the underside of the car (about 1mm), so I may do a bit of massaging there but it's probably fine.

They are actually not bad to install/remove with the engine installed either which is a huge bonus. Here is the link if anyone is interested (I got them for 162, the seller occasionally puts them on sale so wait for that): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Header-for-BMW-E36-92-98-2-5L-2-8L-323i-325i-328i-95-99-3-0L-3-2L-M3-LHD/253850206367?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Last thing I started working on was a place to mount the Canton 2qt. aluminum radiator expansion tank. I am going to make a replacement for the passenger side headlight shield thing, so I started working on a CAD template to then transfer to steel:

[Jdesign]

Curious to see how that Headlight shield turns out! Great Progress, those headers look great in there.

[m42b32]

Headers are installed! I made a bit more room around the flange for the rear manifold and added a high temp fiberglass sleeve for the rear o2 sensor. I checked the fit on the lower tubes that came with the headers. One fits really well and the other fits like it was made for a completely different car so I'll be making my own. 

Got the booster vacuum line sorted with a piece of silicone hose and a 90 degree check valve from an e36:

Started mocking up the intake hoses and what's left of the MAF. One of the ribs on the bottom hose contacts the larger brake master cylinder (25mm master from e32 750il) so I'll have to shave it down a bit. A stock e30 MC would probably clear. rotating the upper hose a bit points the MAF in a nice spot to put the filter behind the headlights with a 45 degree elbow. 

Other things accomplished include filling the engine with some Shell Rotella T6 5w40 so I wouldn't forget when it's time for the first start. I also started fitting the HIK fab skid plate, that thing is a beast. I got it all mocked up and marked out the areas on the frame rails to prep for welding.

[m42b32]

Jdesign said:

Curious to see how that Headlight shield turns out! Great Progress, those headers look great in there.

Hopefully it turns out nicely! I saw someone do something similar on r3vlimited and it seemed like a great place to mount things:

(build thread for this car: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=345894&highlight=bronzit&page=62)

[Jdesign]

Yeah that looks great! Much better than the plastic OEM ones, I might have to follow the trend.. 

[m42b32]

Making moves!

I got the power steering return sorted out with a 1/2" stainless steel elbow, 1/2" trans cooler line, and the original steel section of the m42 return line. To get clearance from between the hose and the alternator I had to space the power steering bracket up about 1/4" as well. 

I am deleting the CCV and replacing it with a catch can system, so I got the CCV connections modified to adapt them to some PCV/fuel vapor hose. I found a car with a recently replaced CCV in the junk yard and got the fittings that connect to the valve cover and vacuum distribution manifold (removed the rest of the hose). I tapped the valve cover fitting to 3/8"-18 NPT and used an aluminum 1/2" barb adapter fitting. On the vacuum distribution block I tapped the outer fitting to 1/4"-18 NPT and used an aluminum 3/8" barb adapter fitting. Both are lightly torqued into the plastic with some RTV to ensure an airtight seal. 

The hoses will route over to the passenger side where the catch can will be mounted next to the coolant expansion tank. I also got the vacuum distribution manifold reinstalled with the catch can return hose routed underneath the intake. Lots of hoses to attempt to organize neatly...

Also in this picture I have new intake boots installed as well as a used (but hopefully good) MAF. 

A while back I modified the gas pedal mount from an E46 to fit the e30 chassis by cutting off the piece that clips onto the floor and bonding the base of an e30 gas pedal in it's place. I used a supposedly very strong 48 hour 2-part epoxy, but it turns out that it didn't take to the plastic well and it broke off when I bumped the pedal. I re-attached it with some Loctite super-duper-super-glue and now it's not going anywhere. I got the pedal remounted and looking like it belongs there. Current state of the interior for your entertainment:

It was at this point I realized there wasn't anything stopping me from connecting the battery and doing some initial wiring/electronics checks. Battery connected and nothing blew up, turned the key to the on position (with fuel pump relay removed), and everything functioned as expected. I figured why not and bumped the key and the starter engaged and turned over the engine! The engine was probably pretty dry so I turned it over with the starter for a while to get oil circulating. After a minute or so it really quieted down and turned over smoothly. I realized that nothing was really stopping me from attempting a first start so I reinstalled the fuel pump relay, primed the pump a few times until I heard it load up evenly, and turned the key (actual first start footage):

It fired right up! It actually startled me because I wasn't expecting it to light off on all 6 right away like that. I ended up having two fuel leaks, one by the fuel filter and one at the other end of the feed, both just needed the clamps to be tightened a bit more (Running 3.5 bar, vs. 3.0 with the M42). Of course with the leaks stopped I had to check it again to verify, and also see if the drive-by-wire gas pedal was working (RIP headphone users):

It does! Open headers are loud haha. The engine had no coolant so I only ran it for a few seconds each time, but I am so pumped it fired right up without any major issues! Now I really can't wait to get it on the road. There is a ton left to do, but this is super motivating.