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  4. Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #48

    I will order new bolts then. That's annoying.

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #49

      Engine getting back together (even though I have to replace the head bolts). And got all my parts back from being powder coated! 

      20180629152646.jpg

      20180629152653.jpg

      20180629162334.jpg

      20180629162338.jpg

      20180629162342.jpg

      20180629162349.jpg

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      • G
        G
        gilber33
        wrote on last edited by
        #50

        Ran into some issues with trying to put in the new steering rack. I got the Garagistic spacer kit (which was a PITA to put in) but once that was in I could not line up the new rack at either the front or rear bolt holes. The rack doesn't match the front bolt holes anyways, so I guess that doesn't matter. 

        But here are a couple pics. This is as far as I can get the bolt through the subframe on the DS. I do not have enough room to tilt the rack all the way to get the bolt through the bottom hole. Additionally, just to get it started the steering column pieces are separated where the spacers are which is shown in the images. 

        I think the only way to make it fit is by having the steering rack splines further into the column, but then the pinch bolt wouldn't fit into the slot on the rack. 

        The rack apparently came from a 1999 E36 M3. Any help is appreciated.

        20180704151724.jpg

        20180704151729.jpg

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #51

          This old thread says only pre 98 racks, but other sites just say e36 and don't say that 99s wouldn't work.  Does the 99 rack just not work? 

          Screenshot20180704-155843Chrome.jpg

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #52

            New head bolts in and started putting on some of the fresh bits and pieces. Starting to look more like a complete engine. 

            20180708215540.jpg

            20180708215550.jpg

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            2
            • JdesignJ
              JdesignJ
              Jdesign
              wrote on last edited by
              #53

              You might need to tilt the rack inside the sub frame to get it to line up. I had to bend the tabs on mine which caused the rack to tilt. Once you tighten it down it shouldn't matter. 

              The motor looks great, its a shame you have to take it back apart. 😕

              SumBunny.jpg

              https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

              🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
              👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
              ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
              🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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              • SteelBlueS
                SteelBlueS
                SteelBlue
                wrote on last edited by
                #54

                gilber33 said:

                This old thread says only pre 98 racks, but other sites just say e36 and don't say that 99s wouldn't work.  Does the 99 rack just not work? 

                Screenshot20180704-155843Chrome.jpg

                Any update on the rack situation? Will be doing the same thing shortly.

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                0
                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #55

                  The rack is in.

                  Jdesign said:

                  The motor looks great, its a shame you have to take it back apart. 😕

                  I plan on dropping it in whole. So I can keep on working on it little by little. 

                  SteelBlue said:

                  Any update on the rack situation? Will be doing the same thing shortly.

                  It's all in. My issue with it was none of the write ups mentioned that the steering column does not have the slot for the pinch bolt, so you can use it to get the knuckle to the right length. 

                  Since I did this without the engine in the car I didn't remove the entire knuckle from the column, otherwise I would have known that.

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                  1
                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #56

                    Anyone know how to remove this shift knob?

                    20180712154440.jpg

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                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #57

                      gilber33 said:

                      Anyone know how to remove this shift knob?

                      20180712154440.jpg

                      With fire!  Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw?

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                      0
                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #58

                        jc43089 said:

                        With fire!  Stock ones pull off, some aftermarket might have a set screw?

                        Someone else suggested that. I'm going to try that next. I'm doing a short shifter anyways, so if I don't find a set screw, then sawzall it is. 

                        I tried pulling it off and that thing is not budging.

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #59

                          You don't have to get the shift knob off to remove the shift lever, it comes out the top.  The white cup around the base needs to rotate and then will pull up, assuming you already removed the selector rod underneath.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #60

                            Yeah, I suppose I could have done that too. I just used a hammer and beat the selector out of the knob. I'm not keeping either, so I didn't really care. 

                            Also decided to switch focus to the drivetrain so I can get the engine back in the car. New clutch, rebuilding selector rod stuff and shaft seals for the transmission.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #61

                              If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                              1
                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #62

                                Earl said:

                                If you don't have a new shifter I have a Ruff Short Shift lever a available if you're interested

                                I haven't ordered any of that stuff yet. I was going to get the Z3 shifter/ZHP knob kit from ECS.

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                                0
                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #63

                                  So, I know this is where the two sensors run across the front of the engine and there's a plastic cover for them. I assume this is where they go, but I dont remember how that cover or wires are secured to the front timing belt cover, but I assume it has something to do with these two holes. Any direction?

                                  20180716161007.jpg

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                                  • B
                                    B
                                    B C
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #64

                                    8031DE04-6311-442F-9AFC-83FA4BF86AF8.jpeg.8cc28253a4dfbac7161515e5b2d5f3bb.jpegC37C33D4-308A-41C7-B676-D48E9942658D.jpeg.ce003bb109ead89ac5c7170f962c22e6.jpeg

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                                    1
                                    • G
                                      G
                                      gilber33
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #65

                                      That is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you!!!

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                                      0
                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #66

                                        Another one:

                                        Where does the circled gasket go? I see it included in timing kits, but I do not remember removing a gasket like this while removing the timing belt components.

                                        Capture.JPG

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • B
                                          B
                                          B C
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #67

                                          That one is either going to be the front main seal or rear main seal housing gasket.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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