1999 M3 daily driver running log
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did the bleeder screw make bleeding easier? or did you still have to jack the car up/massage hoses/do a rain dance?
Dan
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I let my car idle for 15-20 minutes, it got up to temperature, I opened the screw a few times. I had just half of a baby's breath of air puff out and that was all I could get. As far as im concerned its bled, but we will see for sure once I start driving. Definitely easier than bleeding an M42 radiator on an M20
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Switching to a stant lev-r-vent cap was quite nice for this
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139k
Thermostat and thermostat housing replaced, swapped in a brass bleeder screw on the expansion tank too, so far no more leaks. I had an 80C thermostat in there before, and it kept coolant temps around 190 at the head sensor so I replaced it with another Behr 80C unit and a genuine BMW composite thermostat housing (with a bunch of RTV, apparently the genuine housings don't have the paper gasket on them anymore). I really couldn't tell why the aluminum one had started leaking, no cracks or anything, though the rubber gasket looked like it had flattened out quite a bit so that may have been the problem, but who knows... I'm just happy to be driving it again.
I seem to always pick terrible days to work on things, but I wanted my car back so nothing a tarp, bungee cords, and a WJ Grand Cherokee couldn't fix. Not pictured: the 6"of snow burying both cars and 1/4" of ice sealing the hood/doors/trunk shut.
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I feel like im the only person running a 92C thermostat these days
I have an 88 at least. I also have no fan and a broken temp gauge. #livinontheedge
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I feel like im the only person running a 92C thermostat these days
I had the original 92C for the first 5k that I drove the car and had no problems (only had the factory buffered temp gauge at the time, but it never moved past the middle), the lower temp thermostat really just gives you a minute or two of a buffer in case something goes wrong. If you have an additional temp gauge with actual numbers to keep an eye on things you should be fine!
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Come to think of it, I dont remember what ° I have. Probably 88 [emoji19]
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Ready for summer! Slapped on the roof rack and a square set of 17x8.5 contours with 245/40/17 Falken Fk510's. Loving the wider rubber already, it looks a lot meaner! Not usually a black wheel fan, but on the white/modena it really makes the interior pop!
I also discovered I don't have any roundel center caps for my wheels, so if anyone has a set in decent shape (68mm, 36136783536) let me know!
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Ready for summer! Slapped on the roof rack and a square set of 17x8.5 contours with 245/40/17 Falken Fk510's. Loving the wider rubber already, it looks a lot meaner! Not usually a black wheel fan, but on the white/modena it really makes the interior pop!
I also discovered I don't have any roundel center caps for my wheels, so if anyone has a set in decent shape (68mm, 36136783536) let me know!Curious how the roof rack is mounted.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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Curious how the roof rack is mounted.
Its Thule Traverse 480 feet, with the fit kit 1015 (fits the feet to an e36 coupe), and I can't remember the width of the bars but I had them on my e30. Looks like they don't make that specific fit kit anymore but some retailers still have it in stock. It's basically rubber pads that are shaped to the roof profile, and then clamps that come down and grab onto the crack just above the window trim. It basically squeezes itself to the shape of the roof, but its on there really well!
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This looks great white black wheels. I dig!
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140k
The keyless entry has developed a mind of it's own and immediately re-locks the doors after hitting the unlock button. I suspect the trunk lock/actuator is messing with things as it has been very sticky and tough to operate lately. Anyone have behavior like this before? Other things to look for?
Edit: English is hard, fixed...
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140k
The keyless entry has developed a mind of it's own and immediately locks the doors after hitting the lock button. I suspect the trunk lock/actuator is messing with things as it has been very sticky and tough to operate lately. Anyone have behavior like this before? Other things to look for?
Seems good to me! I assume you mean the doors lock and then unlock right away? My coupe does this as well. I don't have a key fob, it does the lock and immediately unlock if I push the rod down. If I push it down a second time they all stay down. I just don't lock it, I think it has something to do with the limit switches for the door being closed. Do your windows drop when you open the door? Mine do not.
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Seems good to me!
Came here to post this.
Is it by chance an air actuated system like Audi/VW uses? im guessing not but the only time I had issues like that was on a pneumatic system
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Seems good to me! I assume you mean the doors lock and then unlock right away? My coupe does this as well. I don't have a key fob, it does the lock and immediately unlock if I push the rod down. If I push it down a second time they all stay down. I just don't lock it, I think it has something to do with the limit switches for the door being closed. Do your windows drop when you open the door? Mine do not.
Whoops haha, fixed that! It's actually the opposite: If the car is unlocked and I lock it, it all works fine. If the car is locked, and I hit the button to unlock it, the car re-locks itself immediately. This only happens when I use the keyless remote (earlier 3-button system if that matters). The window drop works on both doors. Good call on the limit switches, I have the hood switch connected to the alarm so that or the trunk could possibly be causing a problem.
Is it by chance an air actuated system like Audi/VW uses? im guessing not but the only time I had issues like that was on a pneumatic system
It's an electric system with actuators on both doors and the trunk, and limit switches on each of those as well as the hood.
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I had this issue on my 95 325is and it was a security issue with the window pressure sensors. Replacement of the driver side window motor fixed it.
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