the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
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Damn you joe
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The 96+ M3 rack will be an upgrade over the stock unit, but it's not much different than the standard e36 rack so a price premium isn't worth it. The actual ratio is the same, but its travel is limited due to the M3's geometry (Hence 3.2 vs 3.4 turns lock to lock, same ratio just less travel).Ā
Well, the guy only wants 50 bucks for the 98 m3 rack so I thought that was a pretty good deal for a e36 rack. I knew the e36 non-m and m racks were pretty much the same ratio, its just what the guy had sitting in his garage. If this deal ends up falling through then I'll look into the z3 rack. To be honest, I actually thought z3 racks went for 250-300 bucks, so under 200 bucks for a z3 rack is big news to me. Or maybe its just all that r3vlimited brain washing me into thinking that every part is worth double its value.
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Upgrading racks, 10/10 worth it.Ā
Makes the car a joy to drive. -
Well, the guy only wants 50 bucks for the 98 m3 rack so I thought that was a pretty good deal for a e36 rack. I knew the e36 non-m and m racks were pretty much the same ratio, its just what the guy had sitting in his garage. If this deal ends up falling through then I'll look into the z3 rack. To be honest, I actually thought z3 racks went for 250-300 bucks, so under 200 bucks for a z3 rack is big news to me. Or maybe its just all that r3vlimited brain washing me into thinking that every part is worth double its value.
They typically go for 250-300 when people know what they are, aka r3vlimited/bimmerforums/etc. Junkyards and people parting out cars who don't know anything about BMW's will list them on ebay without doing much researchĀ and just slap a generic price on them, you just have to watch ebayĀ and you can get a good deal. Make sure you get pictures of the rack/part numbers before you buy obviously, they can be swapped with normal e36 racks if the previous owner was being cheap.Ā
$50 seems like a decent deal for a good condition e36Ā rack, and once the work is done with the swap it would be easy to upgrade down the road too since they are a direct swap.
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BTW, if you want to get rid of that dusty old M42, I know a guy...
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I have read that the M rack is progressive rate (slower on center for better high speed stability) but that could be hogwash
My Z3 rack feels ānormalā just how my warmed over M52 will probably feel ānormalā
Like what the car should have come with in the first place
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I have read that the M rack is progressive rate (slower on center for better high speed stability) but that could be hogwash
You're right! My understanding is that the only linear rate racks are the non-m Z3 and the e46 ZHP
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Upgrading racks, 10/10 worth it.Ā
Makes the car a joy to drive.ĀHey! When you gonna help with my vanos?
BTW, if you want to get rid of that dusty old M42, I know a guy...Ā
Let me know, I have no plans of keeping it.
I have read that the M rack is progressive rate (slower on center for better high speed stability) but that could be hogwash
Yes all e36 racks, m and non-m are progressive rate except the 95 M3 rack which is even slower in the center of the rack and has less overall travel than the regular E36 rack, aka...shit.
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Hey! When you gonna help with my vanos?
Whenever, haven't figured out where the soft jaws and socket ended up...
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Got very little done Thursday because, life. Friday though......very productive indeed.
I think I spent half of Friday just getting the rear end out. Words can not describe how relieved I was when this thing finally broke free from the car.
Still working on disassembly of the trailing arms.
I should add that when the rear sub frame did finally come free with some gentle shaking, the subframe bushings ended up staying connected to the car instead of coming out. Simple enough...removed the rear seat, pulled out the long studs and knocked the bushings right off. Right side popped out just fine, as for the left.
snapped off flush with the hole. Still figuring out how I will go about removing this.
Transitioning over to the gas tank...
Out of the 6 bolts, 5 came out fairly well. As for the sixth one...fml
The nut completely rounded so I can no longer fit a socket on it. As of right now I am still stumped on removing the gas tank until I get this last nut out. Also contemplating on possibly ordering a new aftermarket tank as this one is in rough shape with multiple dents as usual.
I kind of make a mess when I'm ripping and tarring...
In between this fuss I was able to remove a few more things from the engine bay including the pretty much the rest of the A/C lines and condenser as well as some interior stuff.
Carpet is in rough shape. Recommendations for carpet restoration is always welcome.
Got a call from my machinist. Flywheel and cylinder head are done! went and picked them up that night. Very pleased with how both turned out overall.
Cylinder head received a valve job, decked, and magnafluxed. Sense I will be running a m20 single mass flywheel, I had him remove a 1/8 of an inch on the back side to clear the e34 oil pan.
Head gasket also arrived as well as a few things from bimmerworld...
Saturday I took a break from the car and its problems and started tinkering on the motor some more.
Still gotta get the cams torqued down so gonna work on that tonight. Hopefully I won't snap any of the threads out of the bearing cap stud holes when torquing them down, but we will see.
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For the stuck piece of the subframe sleeve you can try threading in a big lag bolt and see if that gives you enough bite and leverage to remove it, unlikely but still worth a try. If that doesn't work it's time for a small hole bit or a large drill bit and just hone out the aluminum. Wear eye protection, the small pieces fly around.
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ARP head studs and stock HG thickness? Or did I not see it correctly
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ARP head studs and stock HG thickness? Or did I not see it correctly
That is correct.
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For the stuck piece of the subframe sleeve you can try threading in a big lag bolt and see if that gives you enough bite and leverage to remove it, unlikely but still worth a try. If that doesn't work it's time for a small hole bit or a large drill bit and just hone out the aluminum. Wear eye protection, the small pieces fly around.
I'll give that a try. Might even put a little heat on it as well.
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Fuck - you got me.
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For the bushing leftovers I usually took a small drill bit and drilled holes on opposite sides (as close to the edge as possible) and you end up with the leftovers split in two. Easy to hit them with a screwdriver (or chisel) from the edge and spin them which usually results in them dropping right out.Ā
Did you have your block resurfaced?Ā
As for the fuel tank nut I have some cool reverse fluted rounded nut removers that work really well for things of that nature. Hell maybe I'll even track down those vanos tools and come visit you and lend a hand.
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