E30 M52

[B C]

GunMetalGrey said:

Sourcing an E36 PS pump seems like it would be less complicated compared to making panjo bolts.
I have an E36 pump too. It doesnt fit. ~12mm needs to be removed from the mounting bracket to make it fit, even with a stepped pulley

I don't recall if you can just throw the pulley from an E36 on the E30 PS pump and bolt it into the e36/9 bracket or not.
That is definitely something to look at. I know I compared the E30 to the E36 and it wouldnt work, but didnt consider that combo you posted. I have an M16 to M14 adapter arriving in the mail today which will allow me to use the E39 pump with the E30/E36 lines.

Which manifold and throttle body are you using?
Edit: I'm a fool. 
Reasoning for sticking with the OBD2 throttle body?

Mostly just because I ended up with 2 of them and didn't realize there was a difference in the sealing arrangement when I ordered all my seals so. The M50 manifold I bought ( $75 shipped, very good deal) didnt come with a throttle body. it doesnt make a big enough difference to me between adding a plate between the OBD2 throttle and buying an M50 throttle. I am mostly just using what  I have bought

[GunMetalGrey]

Did you stick with the e39 oil filter housing? Sounds like you have things sorted out, but just curious as to why the e36 stuff didn't work, and that's the only thing I can think of. 

The end is closer by the day!

[Daggerty]

I have a few m50 tbs

[Daggerty]

I also have a m52 tb on my m50 manifold with no plate and boosted, with no leaks.

[B C]

I had a busy day outside of the garage but i was able to finish up the last items that I needed to do before putting the intake manifold on. This mostly consisted of getting all the power steering limes situated. The adapter i bought for the pump worked out, i had to shorten both low pressure lines for the new PS reservoir location.

The low pressure line that connects to the rack was not going to allow the hose to connect to the reservoir. I pulled this banjo fitting (left) off the spare e36 pump i had and am using it instead of the E30 line (right). It works much better and im happy with my hydraulic line situation, although i dont want to touch them ever again. Hate those things.

The manifold is torqued down. I just have to connect the icv hose, evap hose, intake/maf, and coilpack ground straps and i will be ready to fire it up. I am at a christmas party now so i will have to finish it up tomorrow around 4p

[Earl]

I cannot believe I see 24 valves in that car...

[KaiserRolls]

Earl said:

I cannot believe I see 24 valves in that car...

It’s been a long road to recovery, but we’ve finally worn him out

[B C]

It started, its running.... poorly.

The positive: everything is connected properly, no leaks or strange noises that I can tell, lifters are much quieter than expected.

The negative: cylinders 2 and 4 seem to be dead.

Cylinders 2 and 4 have spark so I pulled out the compression tester 🤭 (horrible idea, I know) but to my relief they were both 190 psi. I removed and replaced the injector harness to ensure everything was clipped in correctly and ran it again with no improvement.

Possible issues:

-injectors are bad (they were cleaned and tested, but who knows)

-injector wiring harness is bad

-injector drivers (ECU) are bad

Overall, for all the screwing around involved with the engine swap, cam swap/timing, and obd1 conversion, im happy to at least see that it fires up and runs.

The next time I work on the car I will swap injectors around and see if the problem follows the injectors as well as checking continuity with the injector harness and ecu pins

I will win this

[Jeff]

Snap said:

It started, its running.... poorly.

[emoji29]

Too many valves????

[B C]

ROFL

[Daggerty]

If you need a noid light tester let me know I'm off the next three days.

[jc43089]

You could use a screwdriver or stethoscope to see if those injectors are clicking like the others while running.

Another thought is bad spark plug boots causing the spark to be shorted out when actually installed.  I assume you had the coil pack pulled out and laid on top to test?

[B C]

jc43089 said:

You could use a screwdriver or stethoscope to see if those injectors are clicking like the others while running.  

I tried a screwdriver and also a piece of hose and I wasn't able to really hear any real contrast. 

Daggerty said:

If you need a noid light tester let me know I'm off the next three days.

I'm a bit in the doghouse for wrenching so much this weekend (ha!), Is this a tool you'd be willing to let me borrow for a week while i find the right opportunity to get back into the garage?

I also wonder how much the mixture and old gas has to do with things. I dont have the O2 sensor connected because the exhaust isnt finished and the fuel in the tank is probably a year and a half old.

[jc43089]

Bad gas could be a significant problem.  Especially if it was not ethanol free.  I would disconnect a feed line and jumper the pump relay to pump it out into a jug.  Then hook the line back up and put fresh gas in and then run the pump with the jumper again for a minute to circulate it.  Then run it again.

o2 sensor isn't a problem for a cold start.

[GunMetalGrey]

I personally have never had issues with old gas, but I wouldn't rule it out. 

Is your ground coming out of the injector harness "box" good?
Easy enough to crack that case open and check the wiring at the injectors. 
Double check to make sure the plugs are all seated on the injectors, sometimes those can be a bit finicky. 

What spark plugs are you using? 

Glad it's running! I also like your throttle cable!

[B C]

GunMetalGrey said:

I personally have never had issues with old gas, but I wouldn't rule it out. 

Is your ground coming out of the injector harness "box" good?
Easy enough to crack that case open and check the wiring at the injectors. 
Double check to make sure the plugs are all seated on the injectors, sometimes those can be a bit finicky. 

What spark plugs are you using? 

Glad it's running! I also like your throttle cable!

Thanks,  and yes, I havent bothered to figure out how the throttle cable attaches quite yet. At the moment it would appear to be too long but its an E34 cable and its supposed to work.

I did re-clip the injectors in because those clips are abominable, no improvement unfortunately, but yes, thanks for the idea of popping the cover off, should make electrical testing a bit faster and easier

[B C]

jc43089 said:

Bad gas could be a significant problem.  Especially if it was not ethanol free.  I would disconnect a feed line and jumper the pump relay to pump it out into a jug.  Then hook the line back up and put fresh gas in and then run the pump with the jumper again for a minute to circulate it.  Then run it again.

o2 sensor isn't a problem for a cold start.

The only deal with the O2 is that I have a custom tune and it hasnt established any fuel trims, but otherwise yes you are right, it isnt a contributor otherwise

[jc43089]

I'm not sure what the learning procedure is for OBD2, for OBD1 I believe it runs on preset tables for cold start always, but I am not sure if it learns and adjusts after "seeing" the engine run at temperature.  You are probably right that with OBD2 it adjusts startup parameters based on warmed up characteristics.

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

Thanks,  and yes, I havent bothered to figure out how the throttle cable attaches quite yet. At the moment it would appear to be too long but its an E34 cable and its supposed to work.

Ahh, you have an M52 Throttle body. 
I have no idea how to do that, or if it works with that cable. The e34 cable is a direct plug and play with the OBD1 throttle bodies. 
From looking at the throttle body it looks like some modifications will need to happen to the cable.

[Jdesign]

YAS!!! 

Coilpacks bad? I would try swapping those suckers around first. Did you ohm them out at all?