'88 E30
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You need it
The TRM tune for the 413 red label has it too so it doesnt have anything to do with EWS. Im guessing it completes or decrypts what is on the chip to protect the intellectual property.
Anyone can quickly and cheaply copy a chip and sell it for $300
But nobody really wants to replicate and produce the chip base too.
This is my theory at least
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Lightweight mod, take it out and see what happens?
I'd play it safe and leave it though.
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Good calls.
I had never seen it before, but the theft portion makes sense
I mean, you wouldn’t steal a handbag right?
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Snap cured my craziness. Chip is now installed.
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So I finished this up last night & ran switched 12v to the distribution block. Tried to keep the wiring clean and manageable for future additions. Aaaaaaaaaand my battery is more dead than ever so I couldn’t test them.
Leaving it uninstalled until I can confirm the crap actually works. Then I’ll button it up.
+ adding battery to my list of things to buy.
Basically I need to do these to get it to run/drive:
Refinish the valve cover
Bleed stuff and add fluids
Hang exhaust/attach o2 sensors
New battery
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Tis so close. What are you planning to do about music!?!
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Those gauges look great! VDO vision? Do the gauges come with senders or do you order those separately? I'm going to be adding some to my car this winter too.
Correct VDO vision
Bought senders separately for correct thread pitch and to match the range of the gauge
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I mean, you wouldn’t steal a handbag right?
Unless the handbag belonged to Bosch or BMW like the 90% of the code on the chip that they're trying to protect.
They take the stock code, tweek a few bytes here or there, slap their own "copyright" on it, and then get mad when you copy it.
I'd be really interested to see what would happen if a tuner tried to sue someone for stealing "their" intellectual property...
I'd be curious to mess around with it. You don't need to copy the board if you can get the unadulterated code and burn it to a normal chip. The ECU doesn't know anything about any of it, so I can't see how the chip and board together could read different than a normal chip...
..but yeah, most likely a copy-prevention device... carry on.
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Tis so close. What are you planning to do about music!?!
If I need music badly enough I’ll toss a Bluetooth speaker in the console or something
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Unless the handbag belonged to Bosch or BMW like the 90% of the code on the chip that they're trying to protect.
They take the stock code, tweek a few bytes here or there, slap their own "copyright" on it, and then get mad when you copy it.
I'd be really interested to see what would happen if a tuner tried to sue someone for stealing "their" intellectual property...
I'd be curious to mess around with it. You don't need to copy the board if you can get the unadulterated code and burn it to a normal chip. The ECU doesn't know anything about any of it, so I can't see how the chip and board together could read different than a normal chip...
..but yeah, most likely a copy-prevention device... carry on.
Just to be that guy. What bytes do you change and how much? Should they not make money for the R&D time that went into figuring out what and how much to change the stock tuning? That being said, you are right, how do you enforce that with old technology like OBD1 chips? It's pretty difficult to prove someone is copying your stuff unless you hide identification in the code that would not be there from another tuner. Then is it really worth the legal costs to go after a copycat fraud? Same problems as digital music and media copywriting.
Aren't modern OBD2 tunes VIN locked? So it really isn't an issue any more. I can't imagine there is much sales volume anymore in the OBD1 chip market.
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Well went and bought a battery tonight, will try everything soon
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The stuff that they are changing are the lookup tables for fuel and timing. The chips contain both the tables and the the code that the cpu/microcontroller is running. The code is machine code which is difficult, but by no means impossible, to pick apart so that you can actually understand what it's doing.
Ifa tuner only changes the tables without changing any of the code, it's easy to find exactly what they changed by comparing their file with the unmodified one. So to "protect" "your" code, you have to alter the machine code to obfuscate the changes you've made, say by finding the offset that tells the program where the tables are located, and moving them to a different location, or by doing some simple math on the values before they're used so that all of the values in memory look completely different than the unmodified tables.
Some of the tuners probably deserve to make a little money for the actual work that they've put in, but the business of selling tunes is by no means an honest one. Most of the people who've done the initial work are just hackers who do it for fun. It's easy for some less honest person to take the work that's already been done, make it difficult to reverse engineer, then call it their own and charge people $300 for it...
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It runs
Added coolant after making sure it ran and wouldn’t eject belts.
Will need to bleed coolant and finish bleeding the power steering
Bleed brakes as well, clutch was fine
There’s tons of loud valve train noise, going to assume it’s because of a completely fresh vanos and completely refreshed head, as in, need to bleed the lifters and get oil into everything. Same thing happened when I originally put the s50 and started it (albeit this time around is much louder, probably because I never removed the head last time-who knows).
Basically now it’s bleed coolant, bleed/flush power steering, finish up the gauge panel and figure out why the hell my e30 temp gauge immediately pegs red hot when you turn the key on. Going to try and swap the temp sensors as I do not remember which one goes where
Hopefully worst case scenario is I have a bad temp sensor (unlikely as they are new)
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Oh also I need to go to an exhaust shop eventually, these headers won’t work with the mid pipe I have which is super convenient
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Woohoo! That must have felt good!
For temp sensors, make sure the connector with only one contact in it is on the brown temp sensor (or single pin, they are sometimes clear).
I'm stoked to see more of this!
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Rattling is normal after sitting for a long time. Hold the rpms around 3k for a little while and it will pump the lifters back up. Almost ready for burnouts/axle breakage!
For sure!
Different angle
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