'88 E30

[KaiserRolls]

^replacing the VF Swiss cheesed BS plastic charge tube dealio with some silicone hoses and this guy which was finished today

The barbs will be trimmed up yet to shorten them. The larger barb is for the bypass valve, smaller barb is for the ICV. The three ports, for now, I will put some 1/8npt plugs in. Eventually may use these for water/meth injection, IAT sensor, etc.

Overall that plastic tube was a mess of poor design, epoxy, and randomly drilled holes

[KaiserRolls]

Will also clean it up a bit and maybe paint it. But probably not paint it. Because it's stainless.

[Jdesign]

Nice. That plastic tube looked a hot mess.

[Jeff]

KaiserRolls said:

^

What in gods creation who created that mess???

[B C]

A microscope got freaky with a paintball hopper

[Jdesign]

Same engineer?

[KaiserRolls]

Shitty

Ordered up some more crap of eBay for $84 - Torch/hammer/drillbits ready for installation

Finalized the SC feed/oil pressure crap off the OFH as well, removed more old brake line components & didn't really do much else.

[KaiserRolls]

Headers will need some more hammering in order to clear subframe/motor mounts. Hoping they line up with the midsection of exhaust that I have. Needed to drill out every hole on the flange in order to get them remotely close to lining up. Kind of a PITA.

Figured out the intake location for the SC. Initially since there is a lack of room I was going to run it out the headlight hole. I really wanted to keep my headlights as well as the “stock” appearance of the car so I opted to go thru the engine bay. This also allowed me to use the stock VF intake tube which has provisions for the bypass valve & pcv hose. I will need to create some for of splash shield or just not drive in the rain ever

After that pic I spun the MAF 90° in order to point the connector back towards the harness. Cleaned up the routing and left some more slack for the connector. The hole was pretty rough but I cleaned it up later.

Doesn’t look pretty, but should be snagging fresh air and not soaking up heat from the engine bay/radiator. We’ll see how it works.

So that left me with expansion tanks. The stock one just wasn’t going to work. It physically fits in the stock location, but the outlet on the tank runs it directly into the VF intake tube & the angle the hose would need to navigate made me uncomfortable (it was also very close to the sc). So I opted for an aftermarket tank/cap. Stock e36 system is a 2bar cap so I went with a stand lev r vent 21-25lb. Little bit lower pressure rating but safer than going over the stock cap rating. I hacked out all the mounts and “cleaned” them up to what I consider good enough for this cars intended purpose is. In drops the 1.25 quart (less capacity from the stock by .75(?)) tank.

The outlet on the left side of the pic is for the overflow & the outlet on the right side is for the top of the radiator. Kind of sucks that it was 180°, but this is what I had to go with.

Found some 90° bends and called it good. This hose will work it’s way back to the “coolant spider hose” which I have replace with 1 line with a T fitting to get rid of the explosive nature of the stock rotted hoses.

This location is maybe 2” below the stock outlet- if I have issues bleeding I’ll just hold the tank up in the air unbolted from its mounts and crack the bleedable cap.

Another reason for mounting stuff the way I did is I will be running a vacuum block. This left the fender wide open for this piece

After dealing with the seemingly millions of vac ports on Miata Intakes and the 1 on an e36 obd1 manifold I figured I’d get this to simplify vac sources & routing.

Also got the two married dipsticks back from my welder friend. Basically I didn’t want to tap the pan because I didn’t want to remove it and greasing up a bit to catch the shavings isn’t something I wanted to do. So I had an e36 OBD2 dipstick merged with an e34 Dipstick. Overall length stayed the same and now I have a fancy oil drain

Come to find out he welded it in the wrong orientation of what I told him, but it should still work anyways.

Red arrow is direction of drain tube, he welded it about 45° the wrong direction. Running a tad longer hose is the answer here.

Random shot of coolant hose that is flipped 180°, will just need to be trimmed up to fit and a stock hose should be an awesome solution to an annoyance of finding random hoses that work.

All the oil distribution stuff is finalized as well, got the pressure sender hooked up as well, this was an annoying mass of dongles to get lined up.

Chase bays front brake ABS delete stuff is installed but not tightened, waiting for the mid/rear lines to show up & to install the headers to figure out front brake line clearance (their kit runs it along the sway bar. Dumb)

After the line stuff shows up I pretty much have everything to get this back together and going, found out last night I’m missing an Injector clip but should have one on the spare harness hopefully - need to get the 30lb ones clipped in.

Ordered some harness wrap to put some more lipstick on this pig as well.

(You can see the before pics if you scroll up and see the electrical taped mess)

It’s about as close as I could get to the stock harness wrap (shown here at DME connection thru firewall).

It’s a self wrap style that you spread open & tuck the wires into. It then self closes, kinda neat and can with stand some pretty high temps and withstands sharps well too-it was nice for going through the hole in the firewall. I will be doing most of the engine bay harness with this.

That’s about it for now hopefully this weekend I can beat this flu and get out in the garage and get the headers fitted up for good.

[Boris3]

The wrap is good stuff. I used it for the racecar build after gutting the interior.

[Bassboy3313]

Where do you purchase said wrap?

[KaiserRolls]

Bassboy3313 said:

Where do you purchase said wrap?

Amazon!

This is the stuff. They have lots of different sizes and lengths.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZASCTHE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Bassboy3313]

Sweet! I'll have to remember that when/if I need to redo anything down the road

[Boris3]

Pegasus has it as well. Different diameters (ranging from 1/8" - 1" ) and you buy it by the foot. Self wrapping split braided sleeve.

[KaiserRolls]

Boris3 said:

Pegasus has it as well. Different diameters (ranging from 1/8" - 1" ) and you buy it by the foot. Self wrapping split braided sleeve.

AMAZON PRIME!!!!!

But if there’s a local option I’d jump all over it haha

[straight6pwr]

so are fender mods/wider wheels coming before or after the first startup?

[KaiserRolls]

straight6pwr said:

so are fender mods/wider wheels coming before or after the first startup?

I should probably do that eventually

[HipMF]

FYI: not sure what you're planning, but fender mods are a PITA, unless you don't care what it looks like i guess...

[Bassboy3313]

HipMF said:

FYI: not sure what you're planning, but fender mods are a PITA, unless you don't care what it looks like i guess...

It's a lot easier when you're just hacking out the fender lip to attach flares that will ultimately cover up your cut job anyways. 

[KaiserRolls]

HipMF said:

FYI: not sure what you're planning, but fender mods are a PITA, unless you don't care what it looks like i guess...

We will see if more tire is even needed

[HipMF]

Bassboy3313 said:

It's a lot easier when you're just hacking out the fender lip to attach flares that will ultimately cover up your cut job anyways. 

In the rear the inner fenderwell should still be reattached to the quarterpanel to maintain the structure of the car in that area. It's difficult to work in there with the suspension still on the car, so... I stand by my original statement, but yeah...

How does one determine when one needs more tire though...?