M5X/S5X Reliability Upgrades
-
Does this swap use the m20 radiator or does it need an m5x radiator?
-
Are you already planning on deleting the mechanical fan? If not I'd say that's up there on preventive maintenance.
-
Im using my aluminum ECS M20 radiator. I have read that I can use an M20 radiator but will have to see for myself
It will work just fine
I like the cooling performance of the mechanical fans but Im always a fan of more space in the engine bay so I will do a big electric pusher
They sometimes fit, but if you touch the brakes you will put the fan into the radiator, so stay safe and run a pusher in front.
As you mentioned the hydraulic chain tensioner isn't a bad way to go.
Replacing the chain guides is worthwhile because they aren't too expensive and I have seen a few broken ones in my day.
If you feel like it you could throw a new o ring set at vanos.It's not always about "upgrading" things like the intake boot but more about replacing old ones and by being new you won't run into issues for quite some time.
-
Safety wire the oil pump nut
Silicone ICV hoses (overkill but I've had a one year old part break)
Not a bad idea to replace sensors when it's out of the car. (Knock, cps, cam position, coolant temp, etc)
-
Oil pan baffle
-
Replace the engine mount arm hardware with something new/higher grade. I snapped two bolts off when trying to remove the engine mount arms from the block when I first got the engine.
-
Possible new coolant "spider" hose they can explode nice and randomly
New rubber grommet dealios for VC. They are always rock hard and weep
I try to keep stock of the clips the secure the ICV into the intake manifold. I always seem to break those damn things when removing them (new ones are a good idea, new rubber seal and all)
Fuel lines going from m20>24v seem to be a touch on the short side, I need to extend my rubber lines a bit to make it easier to reattach. Same goes for FPR>manifold vac line, I need to replace mine & add a vac block
This really has nothing to do with reliability or upgrades. Just annoying crap that I've noticed
-
Oil pan baffle
Maybe its different for the e34 oil pan, but s52's and probably the rest of the s/m5x group are notorious for gaining some lifter tick after a hard autocross run. A lot of people run their s52's a quart over full to help alleviate the problem (apparently it takes like 4 quarts above full to start having problems with the crank splashing and foaming the oil) but an oil pan baffle will also do a lot to improve it. Apparently it isn't a huge deal as far as damaging your engine, but it's certainly annoying.
If you're a big baller with some extra spending money you can do an s54 dual pickup oiling system (this will only fit e36's, not swapped cars unless you have one of those fancy rear sump subframes/pans), but it's probably not worth the 1.5k+ on anything other than an expensive, fully built race motor.
-
If you're newly acquired m52 doesn't come with ground straps get some nice ones. Couple companies have aftermarket ones (chase bays, catuned, can't think of any others)
Ground for coilpacks too maybe
-
someone said:
Maybe its different for the e34 oil pan, but s52's and probably the rest of the s/m5x group are notorious for gaining some lifter tick after a hard autocross run. A lot of people run their s52's a quart over full to help alleviate the problem (apparently it takes like 4 quarts above full to start having problems with the crank splashing and foaming the oil) but an oil pan baffle will also do a lot to improve it. Apparently it isn't a huge deal as far as damaging your engine, but it's certainly annoying.
If you're a big baller with some extra spending money you can do an s54 dual pickup oiling system (this will only fit e36's, not swapped cars unless you have one of those fancy rear sump subframes/pans), but it's probably not worth the 1.5k+ on anything other than an expensive, fully built race motor.
I overfill by usually a quart or so.
Lifters get loud after 3/4 runs.
-
Possible new coolant "spider" hose they can explode nice and randomly
can confirm.
Dan
-
Great news!!! No more broken clips & something that will actually seal
http://rebooteng.com/parts/m50-intake-manifold-fitting/
-
Great news!!! No more broken clips & something that will actually seal
http://rebooteng.com/parts/m50-intake-manifold-fitting/
I have a couple spares of these in my toolbox lol, but plastic.
I have yet to blow mine off / apart at 14psi but I'm glad you found this because I shall replace the stock one with this! -
KaiserRolls said:
Great news!!! No more broken clips & something that will actually seal
http://rebooteng.com/parts/m50-intake-manifold-fitting/
I have a couple spares of these in my toolbox lol, but plastic.
I have yet to blow mine off / apart at 14psi but I'm glad you found this because I shall replace the stock one with this!
It's not so much the "I'm going to blow it apart" aspect. More so the "I've already broken 3 of these" lol. Not to mention the fit when the plastic one is "clipped In" just doesn't feel snug
-
If your crank damper has been off and on multiple times get a new key that locks the crank to that damper mount. I sheared one off and that was a big headache. Get a new crank bolt to.
That stainless clip is tits!
The water pump you picked up from me is a Stewart if I remember correctly.
Just don't put a lock washer from ACE HARDWARE on your oil pump nut and all will be well.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login