The "I finally bought an E30" Build Thread!
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Fuel send and return are hooked up correctly? Not backwards?
Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor issue. Just turns over and over with no firing.
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Friend with an 87 325is had this crank but no start issue
http://bmwe30network.net/forums/read.php?3,5624
Not sure if it fits in your case but something to rule out.
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Fuel send and return are hooked up correctly? Not backwards?
Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor issue. Just turns over and over with no firing.
Some how the send line was labeled "RETURN", double checked that before trying to fire. Sure enough, that was the send line. Fixed the routing on them. The return line is not hooked up right now, just empties into a bucket on the floor. I've read that not having fuel pressure can cause no starts?
Going to do a resistance test on the CPS today. As well as fuel and spark tests. Gonna double check the TPS and ICV too.
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Crank position sensor is good, read at 537. Icv and tps plugged in correctly, these would be hard to mess up considering how much shorter one wire is than the other. ICV is unresponsive when I turn the key all the way forward before trying to turn it over. No buzzing or vibrating, not sure if this would stop at a potential start
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ICV should be buzzing with the key on. Here's the guide I've been using to try to sort out my No-Start issues.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
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ICV should be buzzing with the key on. Here's the guide I've been using to try to sort out my No-Start issues.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
Appreciate this, Will use this next time.
Unfortunately, after about 8 hours of trouble shooting today, not really anywhere closer to the engine starting.
CPS tested in the range for resistance. Noticed it was a little further away from the teeth so we adjusted the bracket to move it closer.
ICV and TPS were plugged in correctly. ICV still not humming when turned on, but for starting purposes I don't think this would not allow it to.
After awhile of chasing the no spark issue, we thought we had determined the ignition coil to be the issue (tested out of the normal range suggested in the bentley manual). We went to Ben's shop to grab the coil from his E to get a working one. However, this one tested even further out of the suggested range, but his car had been running before it was parked a couple weeks ago. Ignition coil did not solve the problem. Confirmed that it was getting 12 volts. We tried grounding a spark plug connected to the coil plug to confirm if we were getting spark. We would get a small spark when the key was turned to the on position, but not when the motor would crank. After Ben had a convo with Snap we determined that it might not be letting the ignition coil charge, therefore not sparking. We resistance tested the rotor and it fell just slightly out of the suggested range. I honestly can't remember of testing the cap but I'm pretty sure it cleared (so many tests that I'm losing track). Both the rotor and cap contact points were cleaned with a scotbrite. Basically, should be getting power through the ignition system (wires? I don't know its been a long day) but is not firing.
We wanted to test to see if fuel was being delivered when it was cranking. Pulled off the fuel feed line and was greeted with a pressurized gas shower in the face, eyes, mouth, and shirt, so that was fun. Then tried cranking the motor with the feed line into a bucket, but was not sending any fuel. Ben was able to jump the fuel pump from both the relays and fuse, so its confirmed to actually work, the computer/car is just not aware of it working. Not sure if this is an M20 thing but Ben found it odd, is there supposed to be continuity on two pins(holes? whatever the relay plugs into) on all three relays, for the fuel pump? After lots of multi meter testing that was the odd conclusion to the night that we ended at.
I hope Ben chimes in as his description of what we did/tested will be more accurate than what I have typed. Also, big thanks to him for all of his help last night and today. Would have made a fraction of the progress had he not helped me. Also thanks to Snap for answering Ben's phone calls.
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If the ICV isn't buzzing, the car won't start. Triple check all of your grounds too. They can cause a lot of no start issues.
Really? because I've read that it shouldn't be necessary, but I could be wrong. It definitely is not responsive though, so maybe?
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This car isn't getting the attention is deserves. It's so close to starting, but neither Eric or I have the time to finish it anytime soon. It's currently taking up half of my garage and Eric is back in Oshkosh for school. I have 3 other vehicles, so this E30 isn't at the top of my priority list.
We're contemplating selling it. I'd rather have the garage space and some cash in my pocket. He's coming to Appleton this weekend so we can clean it up, put the interior back together, finish up some loose ends, etc. Then we're going to take some pictures and list it on Craigslist.
New trans, fluids, belts, cooling parts, gaskets, etc. The head is in excellent condition. Paint shines really nice with almost no rust, just the large dent on the passenger side. This thing could be pretty sweet.
If anyone wants first dibs, we're open to offers. It currently cranks, but won't start. Has everything needed to be a complete car. We've tried a few things, but aren't M20 experts, so it could be something minor or simple.
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