RIP

We're contemplating selling it. I'd rather have the garage space and some cash in my pocket. He's coming to Appleton this weekend so we can clean it up, put the interior back together, finish up some loose ends, etc. Then we're going to take some pictures and list it on Craigslist.

New trans, fluids, belts, cooling parts, gaskets, etc. The head is in excellent condition. Paint shines really nice with almost no rust, just the large dent on the passenger side. This thing could be pretty sweet.

If anyone wants first dibs, we're open to offers. It currently cranks, but won't start. Has everything needed to be a complete car. We've tried a few things, but aren't M20 experts, so it could be something minor or simple.

Earl said:

If the ICV isn't buzzing, the car won't start. Triple check all of your grounds too. They can cause a lot of no start issues. 

Really? because I've read that it shouldn't be necessary, but I could be wrong. It definitely is not responsive though, so maybe?

YoungCR said:

ICV should be buzzing with the key on. Here's the guide I've been using to try to sort out my No-Start issues.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

Appreciate this, Will use this next time.

Unfortunately, after about 8 hours of trouble shooting today, not really anywhere closer to the engine starting.

CPS tested in the range for resistance. Noticed it was a little further away from the teeth so we adjusted the bracket to move it closer.

ICV and TPS were plugged in correctly. ICV still not humming when turned on, but for starting purposes I don't think this would not allow it to.

After awhile of chasing the no spark issue, we thought we had determined the ignition coil to be the issue (tested out of the normal range suggested in the bentley manual). We went to Ben's shop to grab the coil from his E to get a working one. However, this one tested even further out of the suggested range, but his car had been running before it was parked a couple weeks ago. Ignition coil did not solve the problem. Confirmed that it was getting 12 volts. We tried grounding a spark plug connected to the coil plug to confirm if we were getting spark. We would get a small spark when the key was turned to the on position, but not when the motor would crank. After Ben had a convo with Snap we determined that it might not be letting the ignition coil charge, therefore not sparking. We resistance tested the rotor and it fell just slightly out of the suggested range. I honestly can't remember of testing the cap but I'm pretty sure it cleared (so many tests that I'm losing track). Both the rotor and cap contact points were cleaned with a scotbrite. Basically, should be getting power through the ignition system (wires? I don't know its been a long day) but is not firing.

We wanted to test to see if fuel was being delivered when it was cranking. Pulled off the fuel feed line and was greeted with a pressurized gas shower in the face, eyes, mouth, and shirt, so that was fun. Then tried cranking the motor with the feed line into a bucket, but was not sending any fuel. Ben was able to jump the fuel pump from both the relays and fuse, so its confirmed to actually work, the computer/car is just not aware of it working. Not sure if this is an M20 thing but Ben found it odd, is there supposed to be continuity on two pins(holes? whatever the relay plugs into) on all three relays, for the fuel pump? After lots of multi meter testing that was the odd conclusion to the night that we ended at.

I hope Ben chimes in as his description of what we did/tested will be more accurate than what I have typed. Also, big thanks to him for all of his help last night and today. Would have made a fraction of the progress had he not helped me. Also thanks to Snap for answering Ben's phone calls.

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

KaiserRolls said:

Fuel send and return are hooked up correctly? Not backwards?

Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor issue. Just turns over and over with no firing.

Some how the send line was labeled "RETURN", double checked that before trying to fire. Sure enough, that was the send line. Fixed the routing on them. The return line is not hooked up right now, just empties into a bucket on the floor. I've read that not having fuel pressure can cause no starts?

Going to do a resistance test on the CPS today. As well as fuel and spark tests. Gonna double check the TPS and ICV too.

http://bmwe30network.net/forums/read.php?3,5624

Not sure if it fits in your case but something to rule out.

Sounds kind of like a crank position sensor issue. Just turns over and over with no firing.

Snap said:

The 4 to be cautious of:

The positives that go to the block on the firewall and not mixing any of those up with the ground wire on the strut tower,

I am pretty sure that both of our grounds are correct, but will double check with these.

The idle control valve and TPS are often mixed up. Check that you can hear/feel the idle control valve humming with the ignition on to know if that is correct.

I am pretty sure that Ben checked to make sure that this was happening when we were doing our preliminary troubleshooting, but will also double check.

The crank sensor and cylinder id sensor (inductive pickup from spark plug wire) are often mixed up too. If you didnt mark those then its really trial and error. Id the engine cranks and doesnt start, switch those around

We checked online to see what the order of the plugs were, as well as them being labeled on the wire, but I am going to super double check this one because this currently our issue.

To address Snaps prior post

Ben and I got the wiring harness all hooked up tonight. Started cranking, but no start. It is definitely getting fuel, but unsure of anything else at this point. Will definitely need to check to make sure it is getting spark, make sure all the fuel rail connections are secure, plug connections are secure, firing order is correct, etc. Will have to retrace our footsteps to see if we maybe made any stupid mistakes, potentially something not correctly hooked up by the ECU? Ben pulled the harness connection from the ECU to make it easier in the bay for a couple things, so the two remaining wires might not be properly connected? Both of the ground wires are connected, all of the sensors should be mated correctly, so my assumption (a poor one at that) is that there might be a spark issue? Who knows, time to start researching and trouble shooting.

If anyone has any M20 noob trouble shooting suggestions, please post away. Or come to Appleton and help, food and beer will be provided!

Fuel feed and return are routed like that only for potential starting purposes, so ignore that. Also the new booster hose needs to be trimmed.

m42b32 said:

Might be making another run up to Appleton to pick up some more parts from 6670charger again next week. When I finish the timing belt and a few other odds and ends on the vert (I'll hopefully have that stuff done this weekend, so I could make the trip next week sometime) I could drive that up there and stop by if you can wait till then

If we're still not done by the time you come up, let me know!

I messaged Collin and he said he could probably come up sometime next week. Ideally, I'll like to try starting it this weekend.

Snap said:

All 3 of us running/driving M20 guys are pretty busy

Fixing said M20's?

suspenceful said:

Anyone with a running/driving M20 (I know I'm asking a lot here) want to drive to Appleton?

Anyone with a running/driving M20 (I know I'm asking a lot here) want to drive to Appleton? We can literally go back and forth and plug things in as we see them.

Willing to pay for gas, beer, food, etc. Would be much appreciated!

@KaiserRolls We just hastily unplugged everything when we were originally pulling it, so we only marked a few things. In hindsight, this was not a good idea. That's the way of the road though.

The positives that go to the block on the firewall and not mixing any of those up with the ground wire on the strut tower,

The idle control valve and TPS are often mixed up. Check that you can hear/feel the idle control valve humming with the ignition on to know if that is correct.

The crank sensor and cylinder id sensor (inductive pickup from spark plug wire) are often mixed up too. If you didnt mark those then its really trial and error. Id the engine cranks and doesnt start, switch those around

The coolant temperature sensor connectors are pretty simple, just look at the number if actual pins inside the connector. The single pinned plug goes to the brown sensor for the gauge cluster sensor and the connector with two pins goes to the blue sensor for the ecu