The "I finally bought an E30" Build Thread!
-
Tagged you
(If that doesn't work here's a screenshot)
Maybe it works, maybe not. For free tho why not give it a try (if yours is totally borked)
I saw that and joined the group. I think it's spoken for, but we want one that's pretty much guaranteed to work.
Snap said John Prusinski had one so I reached out to him. He said he has one that should work and is selling it for a good deal, so we'll probably pick that up on Friday.
-
If you value your sanity. Promptly leave the group as well
-
If you value your sanity. Promptly leave the group as well
Noted!
-
If you value your sanity. Promptly leave the group as well
But how will I know who wants to trade shitty wheels?!?
-
Took the clutch/flywheel off so I could mount the engine on a stand. Clutch has plenty of material left. Gonna get the flywheel resurfaced (if cheap).
-
If it is single mass you should get it lightened=)
I'm going to check with some local shops to get pricing on the resurface. What else would be done to consider it "lightened"?
-
Looks just like my HF engine stand, good taste!
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
It's currently being borrowed from Ben (GunMetalGrey) so I can't take credit for it...
-
Jake's boss from his previous job was nice enough to lend us a brand new extractor to use on the carpets of the E30. The only stipulation was that we had to take pictures of the process. Brutal, I know. It took me around an hour or so to extract the carpets and even though the results are not inredibly drastic, I still think they look way better than they previously did.
Before:
After:
We will have the remainder of the parts for the engine refresh for this weekend where the plan is to at minimum have the motor back in the car.
-
Yup, they turned out nice. I'd just note that the first picture is after seat removal, the second set is after vacuuming, and the third set is after carpet extracting.
-
Yup, they turned out nice. I'd just note that the first picture is after seat removal, the second set is after vacuuming, and the third set is after carpet extracting.
Thanks for clearing up the first pic, thought the seats were still in
Lol jk I know what you meant I'm a douche
Carpets look much better
Excited to see this gutted and turned into a full on track car with no carpet
-
We do actually still work this, albeit not a ton in the past couple of weeks. However, last night we did make a good amount of progress. As soon as the clutch/flywheel and the transmission is mounted to the motor it will be ready to go back in. Probably would have been this coming weekend if I weren't leaving for vacation on Saturday morning. Hopefully the following week.
Also noting, we pressured washed the bay as well as pulled some of the unnecessary crap out. Also pressured washed the block. But we are morons and did it right next to the car, so the whole driver side is covered in a bunch of the crap that was on the block. It’s going to need another good wash after it gets running.
Actually looks like something now.
-
Fresh paint means it's rebuilt (craigslist logic)
-
Fresh paint means it's rebuilt (craigslist logic)
It's actually a race prepped M20, bro.
-
race prepped
Valve cover and intake are wrinkle black, it checks out.
-
Motor is back in the car. Trans is all hooked up an mounted. If any of the resident M20 experts wants to make a trip to the Fox Valley area, we will wine and dine you for your knowledge of M20 wiring harnesses. I'd say we probably know where 60% of it goes, but are unsure about the rest.
Car is close to starting, probably one more solid afternoon/night of connecting the wiring/hoses before its ready to (hopefully) start.
-
Aren't almost all of the harness connectors 1:1 ?
-
This help ish?
-
The 4 to be cautious of:
The positives that go to the block on the firewall and not mixing any of those up with the ground wire on the strut tower,
The idle control valve and TPS are often mixed up. Check that you can hear/feel the idle control valve humming with the ignition on to know if that is correct.
The crank sensor and cylinder id sensor (inductive pickup from spark plug wire) are often mixed up too. If you didnt mark those then its really trial and error. Id the engine cranks and doesnt start, switch those around
The coolant temperature sensor connectors are pretty simple, just look at the number if actual pins inside the connector. The single pinned plug goes to the brown sensor for the gauge cluster sensor and the connector with two pins goes to the blue sensor for the ecu
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login