e34 Touring
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Way to put a damper on things
that joke was shockingly good
Dan
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Way to rebound after the rain and still want to work on your car
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the next project lurks in the closet...
White plastic round thinga-majig mod?
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when i took off my stock intake manifold, i heard a rattle inside so i had to investigate.
found out that the early m60b30 intake manifold has individual velocity stacks inside, just like the early m60b40 manifold. BMW later did away with them and did a simple curved mouth integrated into the manifold molding, obviously to reduce cost. the later b30 manifold i pulled off the parts car did not have the stacks.
Dan
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took advantage of the perfect day today as much as I could, and prepped the car for the suspension refresh. hopefully i can get to it next weekend.
for the touring, basically the entire rear interior has to come out. rear door seals, c-pillar trim, all rear carpeting panels, jack storage tray, rear seat bottom and bolsters, etc.. its an easy job but lots of effort to just to get to the rear strut mounts.
found this greasy gunk between the carpet panel and the sound deadening. no idea how it got there, there's not a single thing around there that could have leaked it. mystery. ???
here are all the goodies. went with vogtland 40/20 springs, koni sport adjustables, new strut mounts/spring pads/bump stops all around. car will be also be getting rear dog-bone links and a manual trans fluid change. i dont think the zf likes the royal purple.
also had time to modify my LKM finally. for the e34, this module handles all the check controls for the lights. i have had the 'LOW BEAM' warning since i did the bixenon retrofits headlights. the module is just checking for voltage draw, so you just jump the headlight and foglight pins to a ground and it bypasses the check. some guy in japan figured this all out, but i made an easier to use diagram than the verbal instructions out there. its possible that 'Chip A' could be low beam and 'Chip B' could be fogs, it was hard to tell from what i read online, so i did both in case and my headlight warning is gone.
Dan
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My zf absolutely hated royal purple. Went with redline mtl, made a world of difference.
what symptoms did you have?
i went with RP because i had no idea how abused or worm the trans was, and it would barely go into gear on the parts car (not running). it sounded like a good option, and had good reviews, for hard shifting/high mileage boxes. however, that didnt end up being the case, as it was just the shift linkage was all f*d up and the trans is fine. the symptoms i'm having that i think are from the RP: 1) sometimes randomly after stopping at light, its hard to get it back into first 2)the syncros (i think) make noise all the time, it sounds like a mini forumla 1 car inside in there, even though the syncros work fine. 3) when its cold, its like shifting in molasses. 4)i can't shift fast. if i throw it from 1st to 2nd as fast as i can, it crunches a little. not like gear grinding, i can just feel it in my hand. maybe this particular model of zf trans is just crappy and that's normal? i've never had another car do that.
Dan
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I have tried royal purple mtl in my g250, it worked fine and kept a dying gearbox ( had less than a cup of oil when I bought the car) going for another 30k. But redline d4 atf mixed with mt90 shifts better and keeps gear rattle to a minimum with an aluminum flywheel. I like the mt90 for transmissions that call for a 75w90 gl4 oil because it is a synthetic that is only gl4. There are lots that claim to be gl4/5 but the shifting is better with the mt90, dunno.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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I ran royal purple in my ZF and also had the "impossible to shift into first at a light" symptoms. Got a "new" ZF waiting to be installed. LT2 OEM or equivalent oil will be my oil of choice moving forward.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
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well glad to know at least that one thing will go away. will report back on how it helps.
Dan
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full day today. glad to get this stuff done, though. may is going to be busy with other stuff.
suspension fully swapped. rides great. firmer than stock, but nearly the same comfort. have the koni's set right in the middle of adjustment (1 turn from full soft or 1 turn from full stiff).
strut collars where pretty stuck, and the little 10" pipe wrench didnt cut it, so i built this. we be rebuilding it for the zombie apocalypse if needed. great swing weight.
vogtland=purple. really vogtland?
rears ready to go in. yes, duct tape. i cut the stock bump stops in half, and didnt trust only glue to hold the foam together.
mmmm dumped. love the ride height, tires are just at the fender, front and back. slight rake. back my come down a touch once i put everything back inside the car, though.
also got to the 'dog bone' rear subframe links replaced.
"just the way your mother likes it, Trebek"
Dan
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also got the trans fluid changed to the Redline D4 ATF. so far much better than the RP. whiny noises are quieter, no trouble getting into first, quicker shifts.
Dan
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also got the trans fluid changed to the Redline D4 ATF. so far much better than the RP. whiny noises are quieter, no trouble getting into first, quicker shifts.
I had two bottles of RP synchromax left over from my first e36 that I never put in, glad I saw this thread because now I'll just let it collect dust and save myself the trouble
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Our grey manual 5-series tourings should be friends.
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