1991 318is M62B44 Build

Boris3

Congrats! Just curious what the entry price was for yours given that e30 m3 in good shape are going for $25-35k

CMart

This car is a non-running project at this point. The work that has been done to it is top notch, but still needs some mechanical/wiring/paint. I think the seller and I both walked away happy.

GunMetalGrey

Woah... Congrats on the purchase!
Does it have a motor in it?

straight6pwr

you must have big plans, or the m3 must already have a big motor.

CMart

GunMetalGrey said:

Woah... Congrats on the purchase!

Does it have a motor in it?

straight6pwr said:

you must have big plans, or the m3 must already have a big motor.

Earl

That works=)

Jdesign

<------Woah. This guy is all peanutbutter Jelly.

CMart

Thanks guys. Every time I open my garage I can't help but smile with 2 V8 E30s staring back at me.

CMart

Man its been a while. Well I am back at it. I quit my job, will be moving to Denver this summer and the plan is to finish both V8 swapped cars sell one and drive one back.

I went to swap the Medium case 2.93 for the small case 4.10 and couldn't get the damn thing to line up (4 main bolts) for the life of me. Any tricks?

Lots of pictures to come over the next few weeks.

B C

The first time installing a diff was puzzling for me as well. It doesnt seem like it will fit. The upward and downward pitch is what screws things up. Dont tighten any one piece of hardware before you have a few turns on them all. Assuming you have a jack under it, you may need to re-adjust where the jack makes contact with it to get it level. And as im sure you are aware the mount on the cover comes last

KaiserRolls

Even with my subframe out of the car, getting the 4 bolts to line up were a pain in the ass. Maybe buy/install a stud kit?? Other than that, +1 to what snap said.

straight6pwr

just think about the goofy-ass angle that is needed to get the diff out. you need to replicate that to get it back in. also, you might want to try rotating the driveshaft to a new position to change the bolts from an X to a +, for example. can't remember if one arrangement makes it better or not. probably whichever arrangement allows for up/down movement of the rear joint on the driveshaft.

KaiserRolls

^ could even loosen up the CSB if needed. Don't forget the preload when re-tightening

CMart

I got so frustrated I removed the driveshaft and exhaust to make it easier.

Today is a new day. If it's all I get done I'll be happy.

CMart

Whew - So I took two longer bolts and hung the diff by the two rear holes that gave it room to move. Got the front two lined up, then brought the back two up and replaced them with the stock bolts. Was not easy, but I am happy its done. Going to get the driveshaft back on and start working on a few other things.

Big projects right now are:

shortening up the wiring

replacing the whole interior (switching from beige to black)

Redoing the brake lines

Relocating the oil filter housing

Hooking up the power steering

And probably a lot more.

Good news is I know it runs, and with the new diff it will be a lot more fun to drive.

straight6pwr

CMart said:

Good news is I know it runs, and with the new diff it will be a lot more fun to drive.

4.10 with m62? can't wait to see that.

CMart

4.10 with the M62 was dumb. Hit the gas and it spun the wheels.

Swapped it for a 2.93 medium case LSD. After I pulled the 4.10 I found it was non LSD so it will be all around better.

straight6pwr

oh your post read like you pulled the 2.93 and put back the 4.10, my bad!

CMart

Rewelded the transmission mount for more strength and ran the wiring through the firewall today to clean things up.

I'm a little confused on the power steering routing...

Basically the routing for me will be:

reservoire -> power steering pump -> rack -> cooler -> reservoire

The smaller bolt on the E30 power steering rack. Is this the pressurized fluid going in or the fluid coming out?

straight6pwr

your routing is correct. not sure if you really need the cooler, though, not all e30s had them. its not particularly hot around here...

from realoem, it looks like

M16 (larger) banjo bolt is on the supply line from the res to the pump

M14 (smaller) banjo bolt (both ends) goes from the pump to the rack

then

M16 (larger) banjo bolt returns from the rack to the res. with the cooler in there for cars that came with it.

WIBIMMERS

1991 318is M62B44 Build