1991 318is M62B44 Build
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Pay registration once and that's it
Only pay to transfer it to a different car
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Yes it's $200 for first time and there is a specific dmv form to get a temp plate for collector cars in January do year round isnt an issue. As Kaiser said plates are good forever until a transfer is needed.
http://wisconsindot.gov/Pages/dmv/vehicles/title-plates/collector-plates.aspx
http://wisconsindot.gov/Pages/dmv/vehicles/title-plates/pp-faq.aspx
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If you plan on putting on fender flares and things like that you will need to get hobbyist plates, antique/collector plates require that the vehicle is fairly original in appearance.
Also I was wrong about the perminant registration, I had heard they were getting rid of it
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Hoping for some help from the community.
All my mechanical is done. Driveshaft, booster, brakes, clutch, etc. I am stuck on the wiring. Here is my current setup.
1997 M62 OBDII engine harness
Tuned 88 pin 1997 540i ECU with EWS delete
1998 non-vanos motor
I am getting voltage to the dme since it is hard wired, but not sure if the DME power is hooked up. Anyone who has done another motor swap with any input?
Here is labeled C101, 2 relayed on the engine harness, white plug off the harness and DME (not plugged in).
I've got power and ground to everything (sloppy for now)
This is where I am confused. I know the black wire leads to my starter, but what about the rest?
I can get the starter to engage by hooking up 12v to it, I can get the fuel pump going. When I crank it with fuel pressure it doesn't fire up.
What am I missing?
For the record here is the C101 and DME pinout for this setup:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would love to get this thing running before winter hits.
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Injector rails grounded? Getting fuel/spark?
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garagistic has a little chart on m62 wiring: http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=e30-m60-wiring
i can't find any wiring diagrams online to identify that white 12-pin connector.
Dan
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Thanks guys.
Not getting fuel/spark.
I need to make sure my motor is ground, doing that today after work.
Dan - I think you did just find it on that link - any idea what B/S mean? Wouldn't the socket and pin housing be the same?
That would make sense too because the only thing I was using for that white 12-pin was the starter out. I wasn't putting any V in to power the DME etc.
Edit - the table didn't show - it is the one at the bottom of the link you used.
PIN ASSIGNMENTS (AKA X6011) Pin Description B: Socket housing
S: Pin housing 1 Terminal 15 B: Unloader relay terminal 15 S: Ignition switch 2 Terminal 15 B: DME control unit S: Fuse F14 3 Start signal terminal 50 B: Start relay S: Electronic immobilizer control unit (EWS) 4 Diagnosis signal TXD B: Connector TXD S: Connector TXD 5 Not used 6 Terminal 15 B: Connector terminal 15 S: Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 7 Terminal 87 B: Connector, terminal 87 S: Fuse F31 8 Signal, terminal 50 B: DME control unit S: Ignition switch 9 Signal, alternator D+ (terminal 61) B: Generator S: Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 10 Remote thermometer signal (negative) B: Dual temperature switch S: Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 11 Remote thermometer signal (positive) B: Dual temperature switch S: Integrated electronic control unit (IKE) 12 Ground activation, terminal 85 B: DME control unit S: Fuel pump relay 1 -
Crank and cam are hooked up.
DME isn't bad?
I had an issue where my swap would randomly shut off while driving but the DME was still getting power. It would start back up but would do it randomly. Put in a new main relay and different DME and now it's perfect. I also re-went over my grounds. Harness, engine, injector rail and my e fan
Do you have a different DME you can try easily?
Fuel pump primes when key is turned?
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