'88 E30
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My M42 had serious lifter tick the first time I started it up, even after idling for 5 or 10 minutes. I was really depressed that something was fucked.Took it up and down the block a few times and it was 95% gone. Seems like the lifters need a couple good beat-run to get pumped up. You may have the same problem...
That is pretty reassuring. I'm ditching the current oil- just wanted to use it for the first hour or so then put 15w-50 in it. The motor sat for 4/5 months without running and just had some "storage oil" in it.
I only ran it for about 5/7 minutes. I did drive a bit. Barely creeped around. Probably never got over 2500 rpm
I need to get my temp sensor working on the cluster/install an aftermarket one. So I know if I'm safe
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Went out and drove it tonight.
Ticking is gone (there is still 20years of top end noise, but nothing even close to worrying)
Got the gas leak by the tank fixed tonight as well.
The VANOS could probably be replaced. There's some noise there, nothing toooooo terrible, but still annoying.
Other than getting a working coolant temp gauge & breaking in the clutch, this thing hauls decent ass.
I'm being fairly easy on it, and it scoots pretty good. (Granted I haven't driven a vehicle in the last 5 months lol)
Once clutch is broken in. I promise burnouts. Because really that's all that matters
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Car rips!!! Granted it's not turbo'd or anything crazy, it still scoots way better than the m50!!! It runs very well (for now lol)
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First wash of the year. There was like a 1/4 inch of dust on it
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Congrats! That car is going to be a blast.
I gave mine a quick wash at the pay-n-spray when I first got it running, but I could still read where I had written "Spray bombs 4 life" in dust on the windshield. Finally got the "air leak" before my fuel pump fixed (actually cavitation... neat), so today I took it home and gave it a proper wash. Sure feels good to have a legitimate car again instead of a pile of parts.
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Thanks man!!
I've been driving around with my ears wide open. Every rattle/noise has perked my attention. Just being a bit nervous haha.
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awesome that you got it going! lets have a man date and go do burnouts after our clutches break in.
Dan
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awesome that you got it going! lets have a man date and go do burnouts after our clutches break in.
A man after my own heart lolol
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My m50 clatters bad for the first few minutes after it sits all winter. Hold it around 3k rpms until the lifters get all the air out and its good to go. The Nissan on the other hand clatters if it sits for a week...
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Good to know. I was super disappointed at first. Now it sounds good
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My new aftermarket carpet came in today! It needs to sit for a dayish so it can relax from shipping. It kinda sucks ill have to cut it up a bit but oh well..
I'll probably just make one slice down the center (maybe like a foot and a half long) so I can slide it over the hydro, then cut out a circle for the shifter.
Probably will have to trim near the heater core and some trimming along the sides of the car as well.
Still unsure about what to do for gas pedal...maybe detach linkage and cut a slit in the carpet, slide carpet over pedal, then reattach. one step closer to a complete interior!!
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Got the carpet in. As suspected, it was a pain in the ass. Had to do a decent amount of cutting and trimming to get it to fit. Other than that it all went decently smooth. I finally have a full black interior again, non of that tan BS (just need to find the ash trays to fill the consoles) then the interior will be complete. Also want to try and make the pedal area look more neat
Car got quite a bit quieter with carpets which is exactly what I was hoping for (can't hear the solid trans mounts too much now) **shittypicsoritdidnthappen-I'll get some better ones in the daylight
Also put the e30 m20 coolant temp sensor in the head. I'm a dumbass and forgot to swap out the s50 one with a brown m20 sensor to make the cluster work when the engine was out of the car.
Luckily my hand fit under the intake far enough so I could swap them out. Didn't loose too much coolant at all and now the cluster works!
This is where the temp gauge climbed to and stayed.
I drove very normally in town, gauge didn't move
Drove it hard, gauge didn't move
Freeway speed, gauge didn't move
Idling for 5 mins, gauge stayed
I also did all the above running my electric fan on and off (gauge stayed) also did the above with heat on and off at full blast (gauge didn't move)
At first it made me nervous that it wasn't dead center but hell, it's a 25 year old sensor on a 25 year old cluster
I currently don't have any of the radiator shrouding in that directs air from behind the bumper into the radiator. Wonder if that would help at all, I think I still have them laying around
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Quick search on R3v says that's high. Ground nut on the cluster tight? System bled, might want to rebleed given how you swapped the sensor. Also would be useful to take engine temps with an infrared just as a check that the gauge/sensor/wiring is reading correctly.
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I searched on r3v last night too, found lots of different opinions on the topic. Also read about the ground nut, havent checked it at all, but the gauge doesn't jump around sporadically either.
Granted 24v stuff runs a tad hotter than m20s, I will try to re-bleed as best as I can. I checked again last night and both of the hoses were very firm when warm, couldn't really squeeze the lower hose anymore. Where would you shoot the infrared temp sensor at? Thermostat housing?
Here's the thread I found for reference: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63652
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I was under the impression that the 2 s50 coolant sensors both talked to the ecu for efficiency. A tech at BMW Concours told me that.
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@DrLeadFoot
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But to get the cluster to work with a 24v swap you need the brown temp sensor from the m20 (what I've read on every swap thread ever) It has one lead on it and is the proper resistance to work with the cluster. The one I removed from the s50 had two leads on it and my temp gauge on my cluster didn't work when it was still in the head.
I stole the sensor from the m50 that was previously in my car (m20 temp sensor was in that head)
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Actual numerical values for the coolant temperature would be nice, as would oil temp and cylinder head temps to be able to say for sure, but that isnt easily done here.
From my foggy memory, that range on the temp gauge is only around 220F on my car, so if I ever saw the needle get that high on a hot day with lots of boost/stop and go, I didnt panic.
If it never gets any higher in extreme conditions then I wouldnt have any problem driving my car like that
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Clutch is still pretty new. Haven't put on a whole lot of miles yet
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