ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
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Was pressed for time tonight so didn't get a lot done - however I got my power steering delete plate from Condor installed and started mocking up fan mounts for the radiator. Still got a TON to do before Scooters:
-Install new rear bearings and re-assemble rear end.
-Finish dropping forward portion of exhaust and heat shields, then yank driveshaft.
-Drop shift linkage and rebuild, install Giubo/CSB/driveshaft/exhaust
-Install and wire in new radiator with electric fan
-Pray all this work will fix my driveshaft vibration.
Gonna be some busy nights, if anyone is local and wants to sling wrenches LMK. Garage is warm and beer is always cold.
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Driveshaft is out, shifter assembly is out and torn apart being cleaned and rebuilt.... Tomorrow AM is gonna come EARLY.
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What rebuild kit did you go with for the shifter?
I wasn't really thinking when I ordered everything - I wanted to get the order in so parts could get shipping ASAP and should have done more research. I ended up going through and ordering all the original piece-parts to rebuild. Didn't do a short shifter or Delrin parts.
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Alright - could use some advice on what to do. I've been thinking through this drivetrain vibration issue and wondering if I screwed something up:
When I pulled the rear subframe, I did the weld-in camber and toe adjusters AND the Condor subframe risers. Upon installation of both realized.... You can't really do both; raising the subframe pushes the newly welded in toe and camber adjusters into the underside of the car. In a rush to finish the car and get it road worthy - I flipped the subframe bushing upside down and installed (essentially lowering the subframe slightly?).
When you install the subframe bushings - they also send some spacers to mount between the subframe and diff to space the diff down (to compensate for raising the diff and changing your driveline angle). Those spacers essentially lower the diff as well.
I'm thinking I should remove those spacers between the diff and subframe?!? I think I essentially lowered the subframe AND the diff.. Which should have dropped my driveline angle quite a bit off from stock orientation.
I have no idea how much "play" there is in driveline angles to know if this is totally fine - or if my lowering the rear threw off the angle and caused my driveline vibration (or prematurely killed the rear u-joint of my driveshaft?)
I don't recall exactly when the driveline vibrations started - but 90% sure the vibration wasn't noticeable when I reinstalled the subframe. I remember feeling the vibration right after I installed the condor motor and trans mounts. I'm assuming the newly firm mounted tyranny made the vibration more noticeable?!?
Side note: I'm doing all this work because I had a nasty driveline vibration above 2.5k-3k RPMs - which is why I'm replacing the giubo and CSB. Just trying to cover all scenarios to ensure I can get this fixed and enjoy the car again ASAP.
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Ill trade you a set of regular subframe bushings for those riser bushings. made from uhmw as well.
I have zero intentions of dropping the subframe again soon unless something breaks and I need to remove it.
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I decided last weekend I will be going with air next winter, roads are just too crappy to be low static.
Wheel bearing time - and giubo/CSB time!
CALLING DIBS ON THE CATUNED COILS!!!
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CALLING DIBS ON THE CATUNED COILS!!!
Noted.
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Bolt on a 24v swap
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Your subframe is lowered and your diff is lowered quite a bit. That is bad news bears for your U joints and driveline angle.
Even the lowered subframe is not great
It's not a CV joint so it will throw some serious vibes if it is outside of its allowable range.
I still have the back half of a good shaft if you need it. -
Your subframe is lowered and your diff is lowered quite a bit. That is bad news bears for your U joints and driveline angle.
Even the lowered subframe is not great
It's not a CV joint so it will throw some serious vibes if it is outside of its allowable range.
I still have the back half of a good shaft if you need it.
I think the current plan is to swap the CSB and Giubo onto the original driveshaft - and bring it in to be balanced. If it balances out good it'll go back in... If not - I'll have to address then.
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If your U joints are shot you will still get some clunking back there, the joints shouldn't have any play.
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No play and there shouldn't be a lot 'sticky' spots when you move the joint around.
@DrLeadFoot
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