Calypsorot '90 325i Coupe
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Looks good Chris. I am assuming you got a good deal on it?
Yup too good to pass up! The seller was a punk though.
Nice find!
If it is a M20 and the age of the belt is unknown that would be the first thing I would do.
I meant t-belt on my list there under tune up. Yeah since I have no records it's getting done along with water pump and coolant flush. Car isn't being driven right now.
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M50 swap it
The comedic stylings of Pans Reetsrednu.
E91 328xi - F15 X5 40e - Hopes and dreams of eventually having a cool car
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M50 swap it
NO. The crab will live.
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Nice find Chris! Always nice to save another e30.
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Yes! I've been looking forward to seeing some pics. Awesome starter!
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Possibly an exhaust but I'm not quite sure what's in the budget for mods. I'm sure things will be done down the road if Matt wants it long term but he hasn't learned to turn a wrench yet. It'll just be me and Ben doing maintenance for now.
I've been chanting long tube headers to Chris for a while now.
BMWCCA #499464
Current - 1995 540i/6 V 2.0 | Dead - 1995 540i/6 | Sold - 1995 318is
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Seems like it could be useful...
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So quick update! Haven't done much else to the car but just ordered a boat load of parts
Cooked out at the shop saturday and finally gave the car an outside a wash. Even then its still dirty, this things gonna need a good clay bar and wax once running properly. Matt got to see the car for the first time and we even started doing some manual driving lessons around the lot.
So the issue is the car runs great cold and even slightly warmed up, but once it hits full operating temp it misfires like crazy. Keep in mind I just ordered any and every tune up part but I'm hoping this issue will be solved specifically by the TPS and Coolant Temp Sensor. Going off some info from the great patsbimmer1 this morning and backing up the theory with this thread.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=255340
Also theres a pretty good oil leak that will be tracked down while doing the water pump/belt/thermostat. We did do an oil change but I just threw in some crappy oil that I plan adding seafoam to clean out the crankcase with. Gonna be a busy shop day next weekend!
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No it just straight sputters when given throttle, but idles and runs fine until it hits that point.
I should have asked this before ordering but the sensor with just one contact in the clip is the cluster temp and the two contact hidden lower under the fuel rail is the ecu right? The 3rd larger one towards the front of the housing is the thermo time switch.
I swapped around the sensors with one contact between the 3 m20's. One had the car running rough upon started up and then the second I swapped in was what I drove around with which got the same result after warming up.
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Thermo time switch? Not on an 'i'. Id like a pic of this.
Yes on the single pin being for gauge and dual pin for ecu.
Sputtering on throttle could also involve a shiesty AFM which is worn or out of adjustment (low spring tension causing it to peg open too easily), faulty FPR which doesnt supply accel enrichment, vac leaks that cause a lean spike with sudden throttle change, or lazy O2 sensor.
If you are looking for an adventure we could install my megasquirt ecu and you can see how great life is without an afm
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I'll snag a pic, your right I think it's just those two sensors on the e30 vs the eta's I was comparing to. AFM was my other thought too. I doubt it's a vac leak because the car runs/drives normal until up to temp. Like I said I drove it up and down the street for a good 10 minutes before starting to have issues. It seams like any idle time after warmed up causes the issue yet it still idles ok but a bit higher.
Parts are being shipped in this week but ordered a full ignition kit, ecu temp sensor, tps, timing belt kit and I have a tstat laying around to throw in. Other things I'm forgetting too but we'll see how it runs after the tune up.
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Replaced both coolant temp sensors yesterday and while I think it helped I still have the same issues.
Drove the car around for 10 minutes until warm. Let it idle for like 2 minutes and then drove some more. Usually after any idle it would start sputtering. Was able to drive up and down the block and then it started acting up. Temp was up to 3/4.
Pulled back up to the shop and let it idle. CEL came on but went away when throttle applied. Still sputtered/missed but not as much hesitation as previous trials. Turn the car off, let it sit for 2 minutes and fired back up. Was able to freely rev with no misses/sputter.
Side notes: there is a small leak back by the fuel filter so the filter and associated lines will be replaced. Also Im sure the cooling system needs to be bled since removing the sensors so that's might be what cause the higher temp reading this time.
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Haven't updated this in a while but unfortunately we weren't able to pull things together for the picnic because of the water pump leak after assembly
Fuel filter, cam seal, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, plugs/wires, cap&rotor were all replaced. We fired the car up for 30 sec after the valve adjustment and it seemed to be running smoother. When Ben went to put the cooling system back together though he discovered the leak. Ramsey and I redid the water pump yesterday with a new gasket and RTV and next weekend I'll bleed and flush the system a couple times.
The water pump actually got some rust from the couple weeks sitting un-filled. The coolant was pretty nasty and the water jacket has some rust as seen in the picture. Hoping multiple flushes and the Pentofrost NF coolant will help to maintain things. The head doesn't look to be in too good of a shape either.
Next on the list once the coolant system is solid is the oil pan gasket. I believe this is the source of the bad oil leak. Gonna change the oil again too after running some seafoam through the crankcase too.
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