Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Congrats! Also, I want to see this damn car already. Good luck getting it all together and happy.
although that might just push me over the edge with putting a 24v BMW engine in the Volvo.
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As long as you know what areas need attention they are solid motors.
1. The oil pump nut needs to be welded, safety wired or upgraded.
2. Make sure you use a new Jesus bolt and loctite it!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Baffle welded in.
A sample of the drag spoiler. Going to make some changes to the design but I'm really pumped about it. I'll get some better pictures soon.
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@DrLeadFoot
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It could a little. I want to definitely get the rear lip/kick up to 2in long (it is about a centimeter now).
For the side piece it will be skinnier at the front and have the rear come to a tighter rounded point towards the top. The top fold will be angled in instead of out as it is in this pic. The bottom fold will be as it is in the pic.
There will be 4 support rods about 8 inches long spaced equally across the back of the trunk. The spoiler is 12in long. The side flaps will hang over the rear fenders a little.
I will get it all powder coated black and leave the stainless steel hardware in its natural state.
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@DrLeadFoot
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It won't be too much adjusting. Just enough to make sure it is straight off the trunk.
Because of my car being on jack stands now would anyone with an E30 want to meet my welder guy, aka Dan EXHAUST MAN?? I need to properly size the spoiler. Cough, Snap, Cough...
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@DrLeadFoot
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Haha. I'll text you.
Just to be clear I will have two trunks one with the drag wing and the current one with the e28 m-tech 1 spoiler.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I travel to him in Richfield.
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@DrLeadFoot
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All the parts are here! Now I just need to find the time.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Got a call today from Achilles Motorsports and my oil pump isn't OEM BMW so I can't get my core charge back until I send them a BMW unit. Does anyone have an old pump that they want to get rid of?
Is there supposed to be a gasket between the block and the pump? I hope not because that's how it was running. Metal on metal.
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@DrLeadFoot
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#1 rod bearing. Can I just replace the bearing or do I have to pull the crank? There are no signs of brass or copper (whatever the next metal layer is) it just looks shiny. The top bearing looks the same. #ohgod
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
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@DrLeadFoot
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To top it off I need to put a new timing/oil chain sprocket on the crank. Some of the teeth are chipped.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I will have to wait until I get home from work today to look at the pics, stupid work network blocks most hosted pictures. Unless the crank is damaged you shouldn't have to pull it to replace rod bearings. To get the mains out you would have to remove the crank though. Definitely check clearance with plastigage, I think it should be .0018-.0022, I can check in my Bentley tonight. That's not going to be fun to replace the sprocket, its one piece I think with the cam drive sprocket. At least your crank bolt was loose already
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I'm not too daunted by the sprocket for that reason!
My only worry with that is getting to the front cover bolts underneath the cam shafts to remove the cover.
Thanks for the help guys. You're my bimmer angels.
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@DrLeadFoot
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