Cosmos Resurrection
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I plan on taking all the parts from this
and putting in them in the newly acquired shell. It is going to be a M30 to M20 swap. The M20 is a good runner and good on gas plus is a Super eta. My pa rebuilt the auto trans about 20k ago and I have the car pretty well sorted. Due to the rust I really don’t think it can go another winter and still stay together. I was thinking about taking the drive train out of the 533, it would be much easier and quick but due to the rust on the 528e and the fact the 533 still looks pretty good I have to go with the m20 swap.
My only concern at this point (and will have many more I am sure) is the brakes. The 535 has hydro and the seta has vacuum. I have done some research and found the vacuum brakes need intake vac pressure to work. Can I just plug the intake inlet on the M20 and use the hydro brakes? I have to....and should have done more research before posting this but I thought I would throw it out there as it is my main concern at the moment.
THAT'S MY BOY!!!!
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Looking forward to seeing more of this build. Keep it up!
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THAT'S MY BOY!!!!
I love my M20. I does not have the "snot" that the M30 does but it has gittyup and enough power to have fun. It is lighter than the M30 and therefore handles better. I can feel the difference. I have the big brakes on the 533 so it stops very nice and very fast. One of the first upgrades I will do on Cosmos after getting it road ready.
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My only concern at this point (and will have many more I am sure) is the brakes. The 535 has hydro and the seta has vacuum. I have done some research and found the vacuum brakes need intake vac pressure to work. Can I just plug the intake inlet on the M20 and use the hydro brakes? I have to....and should have done more research before posting this but I thought I would throw it out there as it is my main concern at the moment.
Yay for rescuing more E28's! Swap all of the Vaccum brake parts with the motor and that solves your problem. Guys do this instead of replacing the brake bomb's on their M30 cars. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=102057
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Yay for rescuing more E28's! Swap all of the Vaccum brake parts with the motor and that solves your problem. Guys do this instead of replacing the brake bomb's on their M30 cars. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=102057
So using the hydro brakes is not an option? I planned on pulling the vac setup on the eta but did not want/need to install it at this time. I was just going to keep the setup for a backup if needed.
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So using the hydro brakes is not an option? I planned on pulling the vac setup on the eta but did not want/need to install it at this time. I was just going to keep the setup for a backup if needed.
Hmmm I guess I understand your thinking more now, i'm not sure if its possible or has been done. I think you're charting into a new realm of e28 territory by M20 swapping a M30 car. Only example i can think of that I've read about is that M21 turbo diesel swapped 535is that was for sale. Not sure if he had a build thread on myE28 but you could message him about what he did for the brake set up. You know me, unless I've read about it I don't know how things work!
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If it was a diesel he probably kept the hydro, they do not have vacuum the same as a gas engine. Some use vacuum pumps though.
524TD's use vacuum brake booster, M21's are a special diesel!
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It has a belt driven vacuum pump then?
Another option is to delete the booster using a kit like this. From a little reading it seems wise to go with a smaller diameter master cylinder to require less pedal force. Surprised Earl isn't doing this to keep it ultra clean under the hood. I may actually do this on my e36, undecided yet though.
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Get a g260 behind that seta and a JM performance exhaust and you won't regret it!!!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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It has a belt driven vacuum pump then?
Another option is to delete the booster using a kit like this. From a little reading it seems wise to go with a smaller diameter master cylinder to require less pedal force. Surprised Earl isn't doing this to keep it ultra clean under the hood. I may actually do this on my e36, undecided yet though.
I am doing a Massive Brakes delete haha
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^ I called that one. I meant to link their site: http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete
Have you driven a car without power brakes? I have not, and am curious what it is like. Although proper sizing will make the difference between good and bad I suppose.
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Mkoepp is the drift king though. He doesnt often go for a drive that isnt full of opposite lock
Only been gone from the outernet for 2 days and look at all the replys. I thank you all.
I know a M30 to a M20 swap is not a well documented here. I am doing this for several reasons.
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I am not building a gem here. I want to have the same comfort, gas mileage and enjoyment that my seta provided.
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My dad "loves" the ride with 14" bottle caps and stock suspension. I like the ride also...enjoyable and even more so if you have a bad back as I do.
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I want to have it done with as little down time as possible once started.
Mkoepp is the drift king though. He doesnt often go for a drive that isnt full of opposite lock
I would like to try this but I value my investment more than I trust my abilities.
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Less isnt always more. Countersteering in a rwd car w/o powersteering sucks
True, I would not remove power steering, but brakes may end up with better control/feel manual if set up properly, the kit already changes the pedal ratio from 4:1 to 6:1 to decrease effort, and you can choose between several master cylinders that will bolt right on to get the desired diameter. Mikes e28 has awesome pedal feel, not sure if the difference is because of no ABS? It feels very firm, like I imagined it would be with SS flex lines (That's the best I can describe it). But on my e36 I want it to feel like that, I am removing the ABS (didn't work anyway and I don't drive it in the winter) and doing SS flex lines. Then again mine may take longer than Earl to finish...
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I hope manual brakes aren't as ineffective as when you roll your car down the driveway without turning it on and try to use the brakes. Id have to imagine the mechanical advantage of the MC is a little higher than on a power brake setup.
Brake pads with really good cold bite would probably be important. I cant stand the brake pads I have even with power assist.
I ate oatmeal for breakfast
buy silver in middle of week
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