Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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She is running great!
The "to-do" list:
- Install Megasquirt
- Finalize wideband wiring.
- Heat wrap turbo and downpipe.
- Swap wastegate vacuum line for a larger inner diameter one. (This should result in more boost.)
- Get boost up to 18-20psi.
- Dyno tune the car and record boost.
- Perfect the tune myself on my laptop
- I'm forgetting other little things but they aren't motor related.
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How much downtime do you get when you send the ecu to TRM
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If I pay for next day air both ways 3-4days. They are great to work with.
Haha. Megasquirt next year.
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@DrLeadFoot
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If I pay for next day air both ways 3-4days. They are great to work with.
Haha. Megasquirt next year.
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Those probably have added up to the price of megasquirt by now=P
You might be correct.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I got my wideband hooked up correctly two days ago.
Today I'll be stopping by Pegasus Racing for some heat wrap and the larger diameter hose with the correct a/n fittings.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Good to hear man! Now go burn some rubber
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As predicted she goes back on jack stands. Oil light came on after a 3rd gear pull against a crotch rocket. I didn't seize the motor so hopefully I'll be all good.
I have no oil leaks. The level is right where it should be. I'm guessing that the oil pump bolt loosened up. I know that Kummrow didn't weld/safety wire the nut. Ugh.
Anyone want to swing by and wrench today? I can get the grill going!
I don't want to pull the motor so I'm going to drop the subframe. I wanted to paint it anyway. (Calling Zachary) Anyone have an engine brace that braces from the fenders?
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@DrLeadFoot
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Andrew?
It was making a little rattling/ticking noise but hopefully it is the oil pump chain that is slapping around in there.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Yes. Andrew. I know he has one. Andrew is just his username. Most people know him by the name Andrew. If it is of any comfort. I had an oil pump fail on a vw once while i was on the freeway. Heard the bearings clicking and clacking , limped it another 3 miles home and it ran fine after replacing the oil pump
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You can just make an engine support from 2 2x6s, an eye bolt, and a couple rags to protect the paint on the strut towers. Easy as pie!
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Just to see what the damage is.
I have all of the bolts off of the oil pan. It still is really tight on the transmission side even with loosening the two lower trans bolts. Do I need to pull the trans to get the pan off?? Help!!
The front of the pan is loose and while I was hitting it with a rubber mallet you can definitely hear something metal bouncing around in there. I think it is the oil pump sprocket by the sound of it.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Trans inspection cover gets removed to get the last few screws out. Hope the results come back okay
Is that the sheet metal piece that can only be removed by removing the trans?
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@DrLeadFoot
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Thank you!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Nope its the bottom half of the bellhousing, cast aluminum piece. Held on with a few inverted torx bolts
I don't have an access panel on the trans. I'm going to loosen the trans a lot more and see what happens.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Snap is thinking the bowl reinforcment that the 12v engines have. 24v doesn't have this. You should not have to loosen the transmission. Are you sure it is not just RTV "gluing" it on?
I'll give it another good prying. I was getting nervous about breaking it before.
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@DrLeadFoot
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As long as you got all of the bolts out it should come off, use a putty knife to work it off of there. I'm sure you did, but double check the perimeter for any bolts that you could have missed. There are a couple at the back that are long if I remember right that go into the rear main seal housing but they are the same diameter as all of the rest. If you still have trouble I have a spare oil pan that I could take a pic of.
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