ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
-
I can swing buying the materials and labor for a good log mani in fall - I don't think ITB's and everything to do it "right" are my budget for this fall.
Here's what I would like to see:
-Tapered plenum that clears stock brake booster
-Velocity stacks (preferrably full bell radius that protrude "into" the plenum - but brake booster clearance could be an issue)
The main issue I see is the brake booster - clearing it restricts the runner lengths.
-
http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete
I should do this..
sk8 or die
-
Velocity stacks are always beneficial.
Instead of removing the brake booster, I would probably opt for runners that are angled forward so that the runners and plenum clear it just fine.
Im thinking buy some aluminum 130 degree mandrel bends and do a bundle of snakes like the M5, though all the snakes would be pointed towards the back of the drivers side headlight instead of all over the place. This would not only help with the clearance issue, but it would also allow you longer runners to keep the mid-range happy
-
http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-systems.php?p=brake-booster-delete
I'll have to read up on this more tonight - but that's a nice solution!
-
He means a runner angle like this:
Which would work best for NA if you can clear the booster (or delete it). Longer runners will give more torque in lower RPMs.
I love this idea - I'm not sure it's a "whack it up and weld" kinda job - but I don't know your fab skills either. Regardless - if I stay M20 this is most likely course of action in fall!
-
If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Mention of ditching EFI for carbs and ditching M20 for 24v
all in one post.
I cant handle this.
-
If you keep the M20 carbs would be a unique look. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67286940-NA-M20-with-TK-goodness
If you're going for big power go 24v.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
Mention of ditching EFI for carbs and ditching M20 for 24v
all in one post.
I cant handle this.
Haha. That post has Snap written all over it!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
@DrLeadFoot
-
He means a runner angle like this:
Which would work best for NA if you can clear the booster (or delete it). Longer runners will give more torque in lower RPMs.
I love this idea - I'm not sure it's a "whack it up and weld" kinda job - but I don't know your fab skills either. Regardless - if I stay M20 this is most likely course of action in fall!
If Anyone has a CAD drawing of an m20 manifold flange, I could CNC a flange, and not use the stock stuff at all, but then I would also have to build injector bungs, and then it starts getting costy(for you guys).
I was going to use the stock manifold, and cut the flange, to try and keep the cost low for the people. And its damn easy.
But I do have material for 3 Intake manifolds for supercharged m50's currently
I am adapting a gen 3 eaton m90 to 24v's, but I am also thinking about doing it to an e30
But I do not have velocity stacks yet(wasn't going to use them with the supercharger) and I don't have those little bends.
But why did you say 130* snap?
sk8 or die
-
But why did you say 130* snap?
I was laying on my side while I posted that, now that I am right-side up, it would be more of a 60-70 degree bend.
-
Started replacing front tie rods last night - didn't know BMW used a lock plate to hold the inner tie rods.... Which apparently needs to be replaced since you ruin them removing the originals.
So dealership will have some for me tomorrow - car sits until then.
So no alignment before Saturday. No happy about it - but not super concerned either. Rear toe looks good, car tracks straight, camber is alittle off side-to-side but not enough to worry me for 200 miles.After the GTG.... Time for some painting and coating in the bay before Scooters.
-
E36/Z3 does not use lock plates.
I just used blue loctite on my Z3 rack and have had zero problems with it.
Ask anyone about what a sane and gentle driver I am and you will take comfort in knowing its kosher
My compact uses them
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25
It also looks like other e36's use them
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25
-
None on the Z3 though
[http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CJ33&mospid=48094&btnr=32\_0630&hg=32&fg=25
I](http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CJ33&mospid=48094&btnr=32_0630&hg=32&fg=25) am using E30 tie rods with the Z3 rack, there is nothing special about the Z3 rack that would aid in tie-rod retention.
The primary reason for the lock plate from my own observation is to keep the inner tie rod from loosening during an alignment.
But take what I say as typical forum hearsay, I was not present in the ZF steering rack design meetings to be able to know the exact reasons why.
Im not from here.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login