The Dirty Dolphin build thread
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Second on the subframe, looks awesome! Is that powder coated?
As far as the seats, I know your driver seat needs a rebuild. If you'd be willing to fix it yourself you could then just recover the seats too. When I plan to build a set of hybrid e30/e28 sport seats I'm gonna use kits from this seller. http://www.ebay.com/usr/zoomzoomzoom-ing They have good reviews from guys on other forums that have used them and the prices are decent too.
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Subframe so clean you can eat off it
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I need to do that to my subframe! I'd go gold because gold of course.
Nice work!
@DrLeadFoot
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I miss this car so damn much.
E91 328xi - F15 X5 40e - Hopes and dreams of eventually having a cool car
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Just don't change the body color. Love Delphingrau!!!
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Second on the subframe, looks awesome! Is that powder coated?
As far as the seats, I know your driver seat needs a rebuild. If you'd be willing to fix it yourself you could then just recover the seats too. When I plan to build a set of hybrid e30/e28 sport seats I'm gonna use kits from this seller. http://www.ebay.com/usr/zoomzoomzoom-ing They have good reviews from guys on other forums that have used them and the prices are decent too.
I considered having a friend powdercoat it, but i ended up spray painting it with engine enamel. Are you planning to get a kit like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-325i-318i-325IS-M3-SPORT-SEATS-CARDINAL-RED-UPHOLSTERY-KITS-CONVT-NEW-/350963052092?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b7072e3c, and do the upholstery work yourself? Can i do this myself without sewing skills and equipment? Does it cost much to have someone do it? The first review i found of this seller was negative, although it was because of the seat mechanicals, not the upholstery. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1817261-eBay-e30-sport-seats-review-zoomzoomzoom-ing
someone said:
Just don't change the body color. Love Delphingrau!!!
The color is here to stay. I love Delphin.
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I claim victory for the evening. The front subframe is out. I dropped it with the control arms still attached to avoid battle with the 22mm inner ball joint nuts
A reinforced subframe is going back in, along with new control arms, M3 offset CAB's, and new Bilstein sports. I think i have a broken motor mount, so i might as well put new ones in. My swaybar bushings look pretty sorry too...
If you're wondering what's supporting the engine, it's this:
This strange damage/repair job is why I have a new subframe
This 4.10 followed me home from Appleton. My current diff is making awful machining noises...
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Getting closer...
This tool made CAB installation a breeze. If anyone wants to borrow it, lemme know.
Question: Are these motor mount heat shield bracket wraparound hook things important, or can i cut them off (just the hook part that wraps around)??? They cant be hooked around the subframe after I welded in my reinforcements. Is the only purpose of this part to hold the heat shield?
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Subframe looks fantastic!
Your CAB install tool looks exactly like mine did, I didnt use very good threaded rod because the threads were buggered up by the time I was done with it.
Where did you get the bushings pressed into the lollipops at?
You dont need the hooked portion of the heat shield bracket but I dont see a reason to lop it off.
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I have always installed the bushings by hand after lubing them with dishsoap, (It is still not easy to get them on though). From my understanding the car needs to be set down right away so that they dry with them at the proper angle with the weight of the car on the suspension so that they are not twisting/flexed when the car is at normal height. How are you determining the correct angle to install them at?
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cars coming together nicely!
also,
countdown to ecstasy
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I have always installed the bushings by hand after lubing them with dishsoap, (It is still not easy to get them on though). From my understanding the car needs to be set down right away so that they dry with them at the proper angle with the weight of the car on the suspension so that they are not twisting/flexed when the car is at normal height. How are you determining the correct angle to install them at?
Soo i just read the installation procedure in my trusty Bentley manual and it describes the necessity to press the bushing on the arm and let the car rest on the ground in a loaded condition within 30 minutes, as you stated, otherwise you will crash and die (maybe). I did not use BMW's special lube, nor did i use any lube; i just installed them in a generally correct orientation. I wish i would have read the install directions before installing (who does that?). Now i'm kinda concerned. I cant believe that any torque caused by the bushing will be that significant compared to other forces on the wheel, and i cant believe that the bushing wouldnt slip after a few miles. We'll see.
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S4.10? or grandma 4.10?
The new rubber and new front end stuff means we need to get out and hit some twisties soon
Its an open diff, and twisties must be driven with extreme prejudice this year.
Subframe looks fantastic!
Your CAB install tool looks exactly like mine did, I didnt use very good threaded rod because the threads were buggered up by the time I was done with it.
Where did you get the bushings pressed into the lollipops at?
You dont need the hooked portion of the heat shield bracket but I dont see a reason to lop it off.
I didn't want to battle with pressing them in, so i bought the bushings pre installed in the brackets. Expensive, yes, but sometimes i will pay for no hassle.
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I didn't mean to concern you, I think it is more of a longevity issue. If the bushing is constantly twisted it may not last as long. Did you use standard bushings or e36 m3 ones?
They are E30 M3 offset bushings. The install was sooo easy with my fancy home made tool, i knew it was too good to be true. Hopefully there will be no ill effects:)
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