My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
-
If your rotors are the same as the 98/99 vented rotors, why cant you just order 98/99 vented rotors from them if their catalog shows vented for those years? Or am I missing something?
-
The thing is that my car came from the factory with the option for vented fronts. I ordered rotors for a 1995 318Ti because that is what I have. Since they never asked about vented or solid fronts, I figured they were making what I have (it never crossed my mind that there were two options for front rotors). When they arrived I then noticed that they gave me solid fronts and that they did not know that cars older than 98 came with vented fronts.
They are giving me the option to get the vented fronts but I have to pay an additional $50 to cover partial material and shipping costs. I do however get to keep the solid ones as well.
-
why do you even want vented rotors?
Because my car came with/is set up for vented rotors. Why would I pay this much money to have a downgraded set of rotors? The solid rotors will heat up a lot more and are a lot skinnier than the vented rotors.
-
I think Rowley is misunderstanding, vented rotors have the air space between the two sides but the braking surface is smooth, not the same as slotted with the grooves in the braking surface. In general, solid rotors are usually used on the rears where less cooling is needed.
-
I see where the disconnect is. I wanted the double slotted pattern on vented rotors. The vented and solid refers to the build of the rotor blank itself like John said. I wanted Adams Rotors for the great quality and they cost the same blank as they do being machined.
I opted for the AR Race (double slotted) pattern because it is one of the patterns that adds a hair of performance and also looks good. The dimpled/drilled rotors don't really offer much when used with street pads and they also make noise.
-
True, but I just want to have what the car already has instead of downgrading to solid=) If you prefer solid, would you like to by my solids for your e36? =D
Solids on a pure race car= no no
I completely understand what you guys are saying now.
sk8 or die
-
No real update.
I didn't get out to the shop this weekend. My buddy Kyle will hopefully be out this weekend to put in more time on the bay.
I have a pending order on ECS for the tensioner plug and washer, as well as all new bolts for the front suspension. I am trying to replace almost every bolt with a new one for peace of mind. When I did the rear suspension I didn't really care all that much. Now I feel like rusty hardware was half-assing it and I feel like ripping it back out to replace all of that as well.
I have also been thinking about my rear shock mounts. I have some decently new e46 m3 convertible mounts installed now, but I didn't have new washers, nuts, and gaskets when I put them in. I have been thinking about doing the GC tall RSM's to gain some dampening in the rear, but I think that would limit my airing up height due to the Mustang shocks already being really short.
I am also hearing about Camaro rear shocks lately and am wondering how they compare length wise and stiffness wise to the mustang shocks. Does anybody have any info on this?
-
I'm all ears on the America muscle shock info. I'm in the market for some rears.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
    @DrLeadFoot
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login