332ti, a compact story.
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Thanks guys,
I'll take you up on that SRS tool too. I'll also be willing to let anyone help diagnose my wheel hop issue if they're coming to the 5er meet.
I'm pretty excited, headed to the DMV in a few to register it in a different county. My cluster is lit up like christmas. I'm sure the emissions folk would go to town on it.
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Thanks again everyone!
I got the car registered today and listed it as being mostly driven in Langlade County, where I have family. That should make me exempt from emissions, shhh...
I sent the previous owner a email today about the wheel hop. I specifically asked if he had changed anything which produced an immediate issue, or if it just randomly started or progressed. Here's what he had to say:
someone said:
There seem to be multiple issues that can create similar symptoms. It was kind of the same when the flex disc (guibo) in the drive shaft was shot. That got progressively worse until I changed it. Then it was fine. Some time after that, the right rear shock tower / mount broke.(different, very obvious symptom) I fixed that with a reinforcement kit and installed those on both sides. I suspect the shock mount breaking may have caused a weakness in the rear bushings. Then when I started to get the current symptom, I inspected the rear dif mount and it was separating, so I replaced it. That didn’t fix it, next I replaced the center support bearing. That didn’t fix it. That’s when I replaced the drive shaft because the universal joint was not operating smoothly. It hasn’t really progressed.
So, because everything else back there has been changed, I think it’s the rear trailing arm / sub frame bushings. That would have been my next course of action. From what I could see, all the metal on the rear sub-frame and trailing arms looks pretty solid.
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I just threw it up on jack stands. I let it run with the wheels free spinning and didn't hear anything. I tugged on the axels and wheels (for bearings) and it all seems solid. Im going to assume its the trailing arm bushings. I figure, I might as well try replacing the subframe and trailing arm bushings and see what happens from there.
IDK if it better describes the issue but-
I can drive the car without hearing the hop. I just have to not really lay into it. If you're just do and from work without smashing the throttle, its almost non existent. I can also lay off it and throw it into 3rd and run it all the way out and not feel anything. So what I'm getting at is, it seems to only "hop" when under hard acceleration and torque. I felt no such hop during my trip back home while I was in 5th and 4th, doing 65-90mph sprints.
Anyone?
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cant wait to see pictures.
wheel hop on e30/e36ti rear suspension: sloppy/worn out suspension parts.
these cars are prone to it, though, and sometimes with new parts it doesnt go away entirely.
seriously, though, whats the point in spinning your tires in a straight line anyways? buy a muscle car for that.
Dan
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cant wait to see pictures.
wheel hop on e30/e36ti rear suspension: sloppy/worn out suspension parts.
these cars are prone to it, though, and sometimes with new parts it doesnt go away entirely.
seriously, though, whats the point in spinning your tires in a straight line anyways? buy a muscle car for that.
Well, it pretty much makes the engine useless to have if i cant put the power down. It happens if I turn a corner and gun it, same issue.
I'll give rides at the 5er meet, I'm sure we can figure it out. Im guessing you're right, its just going to be a matter of replacing worn bushings.
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stickier tires and stiffer shocks can also help with the hop, if all else fails.
Dan
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Earl, AndyHundley and I attempted to fix the issue last night. I suppose the issue is more of a driveshaft "slap". There are some photos somewhere that I may or may not upload but ultimately, we were unsuccessful.
The center support bearing was completely shot. We all were pretty confident that installing a new center support bearing and the tranny mounts I bought would fix the issue. It did not. Here is my quote from the thread on 318ti.org http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?p=354506
someone said:
I had several car
savvy (and bmw nuts) ride and drive my vehicle. All signs pointed to a worn center support bearing. I went ahead and ordered OEM center support bearing and transmission mounts. Last night, a few friends got together and worked on my car. We found a completely shot center support bearing. The bearing was still securely on the driveshaft but the rubber around that was completely worn off, so basically the driveshaft was free floating in the center support bearing. We felt fairly confident that the new center support bearing would fix the issue, thinking perhaps the previous owner lied or installed it incorrectly. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the driveshaft slap.
Some things to note:
- Driveshaft IS new. Still has stickers on it, it looks very fresh. I've sent an email to the previous owner asking for more details on it, i.e. install date, brand, etc.
- Flexdisk or "Guibo" looks fine
- I put the vehicle on jack stands and put it in gear and accelerated, I did not feel the shake. That being said, I didn't exactly beat on it while I was up there. So take that for what its worth.
- While rotating the driveshaft, I noted only the passenger rear wheel was turning. I have receipts for a Limited Slip but have no idea what one is on there. Is that normal?
- Fairly certain this isn't a rear subframe bushing issue. Under inspection they don't look that bad.
- Engine Mounts look fine.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Last Saturday with the help of Chris and Andy, we fixed my car. This is a true story you may tell your grandchildren.
Photos and long story to follow.
good to hear Alex
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story time noaw!!!
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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