M30 Timing
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Okay ... this is from Mye28.com but I have read this same process other places and seems to be the way to do it ... Why are you going with ARP studs ?
- Set the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. With everything apart it should be easy to tell.. There are 2 marks on the crank pulley, one for the IGNITION TIMING which is indicated by the dowel, and another TDC mark. This is marked by an O | T. There is a small nub on the lower timing cover. Line up the line between the O | T with this nub... it helps to have a helper for this because I wasnt able to hand crank the motor from the top..
Rememeber the crank turns 2 times for every 1 time of the cam, so look at the position of the cam lobes.. The cam lobes should be pointing down (toward the pistons), if they arent you need to turn the crank pulley again a full turn..
Basically, the bolts are at 12, 3, 6, and 9 in relation to the motor. Also, there is a sort of "pointer" on the top of the head, and the 12o'clock bolt hole will line up with this.
I removed the 4 bolts on the cam sprocket and zip tied the chain to the sprocket... HOWEVER, I would plan on checking the timing again, dont assume you can do this without double and triple checking the timing.. If I were to recommend this to someone I would just do the timing again to be safe. Basically all you do there is line the bottom end at TDC as per the mark, align the cam using the aforementioned, slide the chain on the sprocket and the sprocket on the cam, thats the fool proof way of doing it.
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I'm wanting to go with ARP head studs, because the factory ones could have heat stretched, hence why I'm burning a little coolant. And I'd go ARP head studs for boost, so I might as well throw them in their, "While we're in there..." haha
That post helps. I'll keep you guys posted if I actually do go about this with out fully redoing my motor. Haha
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