<![CDATA[M30 Timing]]>So, M30B34 is needing a headgasket/ARP headstud upgrade. I can't find anything on how to do timing? I've googled everything, and can't find anything on how to do it.

Any links would be great, and any one have a cheaper price then $255.00 for M30 ARP head studs?

:)

]]>https://wibimmers.com/topic/1550/m30-timingRSS for NodeWed, 16 Sep 2026 04:08:45 GMTFri, 07 Jun 2013 17:31:13 GMT60<![CDATA[Reply to M30 Timing on Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:48:02 GMT]]>As much as I'd love to Tim, I can't swing the price currently. =\

]]>https://wibimmers.com/post/24166https://wibimmers.com/post/24166Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:48:02 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to M30 Timing on Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:04:11 GMT]]>Headgasket is getting a bit worse. Looks like I'll be ordering a new headgasket through Guten. I'd go MLS but they wanted $225 for theirs.

]]>https://wibimmers.com/post/24121https://wibimmers.com/post/24121Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:04:11 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to M30 Timing on Sun, 09 Jun 2013 00:16:47 GMT]]>I can beat that price. $235 delivered. In stock. Let me know

]]>https://wibimmers.com/post/23934https://wibimmers.com/post/23934Sun, 09 Jun 2013 00:16:47 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to M30 Timing on Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:44:02 GMT]]>I'm wanting to go with ARP head studs, because the factory ones could have heat stretched, hence why I'm burning a little coolant. And I'd go ARP head studs for boost, so I might as well throw them in their, "While we're in there..." haha

That post helps. I'll keep you guys posted if I actually do go about this with out fully redoing my motor. Haha

]]>https://wibimmers.com/post/23918https://wibimmers.com/post/23918Fri, 07 Jun 2013 20:44:02 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to M30 Timing on Fri, 07 Jun 2013 19:19:30 GMT]]>Okay ... this is from Mye28.com but I have read this same process other places and seems to be the way to do it ... Why are you going with ARP studs ?

- Set the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. With everything apart it should be easy to tell.. There are 2 marks on the crank pulley, one for the IGNITION TIMING which is indicated by the dowel, and another TDC mark. This is marked by an O | T. There is a small nub on the lower timing cover. Line up the line between the O | T with this nub... it helps to have a helper for this because I wasnt able to hand crank the motor from the top.. 

Rememeber the crank turns 2 times for every 1 time of the cam, so look at the position of the cam lobes.. The cam lobes should be pointing down (toward the pistons), if they arent you need to turn the crank pulley again a full turn..

Basically, the bolts are at 12, 3, 6, and 9 in relation to the motor. Also, there is a sort of "pointer" on the top of the head, and the 12o'clock bolt hole will line up with this. 

I removed the 4 bolts on the cam sprocket and zip tied the chain to the sprocket... HOWEVER, I would plan on checking the timing again, dont assume you can do this without double and triple checking the timing.. If I were to recommend this to someone I would just do the timing again to be safe. Basically all you do there is line the bottom end at TDC as per the mark, align the cam using the aforementioned, slide the chain on the sprocket and the sprocket on the cam, thats the fool proof way of doing it.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=40708

]]>https://wibimmers.com/post/23913https://wibimmers.com/post/23913Fri, 07 Jun 2013 19:19:30 GMT