DIY e30 differential removal.

[Ryan...]

So Benjamin (gunmetalgray) and I decided to remove the 4.10 LSD from my rolled 318is. We had everything you could ever want to do the job right; tools, ambition, stunning good looks, a faithful dog, and slightly overcast skies with a nice wind.

Tools used:

2- 19mm socket

2- 1/2" socket wrench

2- breaker bars

1- 1970's Mustang Bobcat

1- Milwaukee Sawzall

To start, we had to drag the disgusting wreck of a car up to the parking pad. All went well.

Then, we jacked that baby up and used cinder blocks as jack stands. All went well.

Then, we started to remove various nuts, bolts, and tetanus (aka rust) covered heat shields. All went well.

Then, shit got real tricky. To remove the differential, one must remove 2 bolts located on top of the diff, and two on the side that mount it to the rear subframe. In order to remove those bolts, we decided to use the sawzall to cut the sway bar end links in half so it would be easier to access the bolts. No pics of that, but trust me, all went well.

After loosening the bolts mentioned above, we set out to remove the driveshaft from the differential. This looked awfully hard, so we decided to cut the driveshaft in half approximately 3" behind the rear subframe.

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286030&d=1311281348

After making 3 very poor cuts the driveshaft was still in one piece, and the differential was still stuck in place. To remove it, we had the brilliant idea of strapping the differential to the bobcat and simply pulling it out backwards. All went better than expected.

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286029&d=1311281348

After a little finagling around with the halfshafts the diff decided to pop out. Sweet.

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286032&d=1311281348

We decided to leave this peice of the driveshaft still attached. If it looks razor sharp in the pic. that's because it is.

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286033&d=1311281348

Now you can sit back and enjoy the view.

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286034&d=1311281348

And look at these two studs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286031&d=1311281348

Moral of the story; if you need a part removed, feel free to ask for my or Ben's help, we get shit done.

The End.

[Celina325is]

Sweet! do they rent those bobcats at autozone? haha, honestly though, thats how you git'r'done.

[Ryan...]

Not at Autozone, but for a pack of PBR longnecks I'd rent it out for a day

[GunMetalGrey]

Thanks for actually putting time in to do this write up.

[Ryan...]

Hey man, anyway we can help spread the good word

[straight6pwr]

well thats one way to do it. those bolts which looked 'awfully hard' are actually a cinch.

[Ryan...]

haha they weren't actually hard, I was just dying to use the sawzall

[rampelsauce]

Milwaukee Sawzall (for that matter any Milwaukee power tool) FTW. I dont blame you.

[quillbro]

wow.... ive swapped many diffs... never had anything seized up so bad I had to chop the DS in half. Oh well, im guessing you didnt need it anymore. I just apply heat with a torch, quench with PB blaster.... give it some time... Use a 1/2" breaker bar... if that doesnt work repeat heat, quench, time.... sooner or later it will come. Might have to use impact sockets as well and an airdrive.

Biggest thing is remember to disconnect the speed sensor before you drop the diff or you could fuck it up. I did that once...