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  4. 2002 E46 M3 // Build Thread

2002 E46 M3 // Build Thread

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  • pynaclP
    pynaclP
    pynacl
    wrote on last edited by
    #73

    Tiny change, but swapped out the indicator bulbs with chrome coated ones. Barely noticeable but I think it’s subtly better looking in the clear housing. Good tip @Rekpoint

    8BE6D0F9-3398-4ACE-9908-E5D00ADE9A37.jpeg0B73768D-597F-4753-843E-41350F2DDB36.jpeg9595E130-21B2-49C1-8A68-992C3E3B86B7.jpeg

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    • pynaclP
      pynaclP
      pynacl
      wrote on last edited by
      #74

      I ended up buying some TC Kline coilovers from a forum member on nam3forum. They were advertised as a 3000 mile set and they looked pretty solid in the sellers photos. Upon getting them I realized he might have forgotten a 0 or two on the mileage. The two fronts are blown and the rears have a pretty old build date. This set is nearly $3200 new, so I hoped I could save a few bucks buying used. NOPE no chance. Bought two new front replacements that are on their way from TCK. Going to rock the rears until they wear out, might have another season or two in them.

      On the bright side, I did get Ground Control camber plates included. They were a bit dirty and beat up, so I did my best to clean and re-grease the bearings. Think they'll work just fine.

      fetch?id=136225

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      1
      • KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRollsK
        KaiserRolls
        wrote on last edited by
        #75

        Will the replacement shocks need to be revalved for the spring rates? Or are they an off the shelf setup

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        0
        • pynaclP
          pynaclP
          pynacl
          wrote on last edited by
          #76

          KaiserRolls said:

          Will the replacement shocks need to be revalved for the spring rates? Or are they an off the shelf setup

          Yeah they are custom valved to the springs. I did give the spring rates to TCK when ordering, so hopefully the replacements are an exact match. Honestly not sure how to confirm or deny that though

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          0
          • pynaclP
            pynaclP
            pynacl
            wrote on last edited by
            #77

            Got the new shocks from TCK already! Time to swap the GC camber plates on and get these installed. Still not sure if the factory end links will fit. If not, maybe that'll be an excuse to replace them and upgrade front sway bar too.

            newStruts.jpg

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            • patsbimmer1P
              patsbimmer1P
              patsbimmer1
              wrote on last edited by
              #78

              pynacl said:

              Got the new shocks from TCK already! Time to swap the GC camber plates on and get these installed. Still not sure if the factory end links will fit. If not, maybe that'll be an excuse to replace them and upgrade front sway bars too.

              newStruts.jpg

              I'd suggest going with a shortened or adjustable sway bar link.  The stock ones are made for the stock height.  You're going to change the pre-load on the sway bar and could impact your handling if you stick with the stock sway bar links and lowered height.

              2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

              07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

              97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
              95 325is *sold*
              93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

              BMWCCA #473306

              Instagram @patsbimmer1

              AKA- HALLWAY PAT

              "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • RekpointR
                RekpointR
                Rekpoint
                wrote on last edited by
                #79

                patsbimmer1 said:

                I'd suggest going with a shortened or adjustable sway bar link.  The stock ones are made for the stock height.  You're going to change the pre-load on the sway bar and could impact your handling if you stick with the stock sway bar links and lowered height.

                https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/e46-m3-sway-bars/products/bmw-front-sway-bar-end-link-adjustable-pair

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313B
                  Bassboy3313
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #80

                  Rekpoint said:

                  https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/e46-m3-sway-bars/products/bmw-front-sway-bar-end-link-adjustable-pair

                  Just know that heim joint sway links can be noisy. So if that doesn't bother you, go for it! I have them on my Z3 Coupe and will be switching them out for some adjustable ball joint style sway links to quiet things down. Just an FYI

                  CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRollsK
                    KaiserRolls
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #81

                    Bassboy3313 said:

                    Just know that heim joint sway links can be noisy. So if that doesn't bother you, go for it! I have them on my Z3 Coupe and will be switching them out for some adjustable ball joint style sway links to quiet things down. Just an FYI

                    He won’t hear it over the Ed Sheeran he listens to

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    5
                    • pynaclP
                      pynaclP
                      pynacl
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #82

                      patsbimmer1 said:

                      I'd suggest going with a shortened or adjustable sway bar link.  The stock ones are made for the stock height.  You're going to change the pre-load on the sway bar and could impact your handling if you stick with the stock sway bar links and lowered height.

                      Honestly fairly new to the intricacies of suspension tuning so I reached out to TC Kline and got this response

                      someone said:

                      Just so you know our take on the situation... We have never put adjustable end links on any of our track cars(specifically our E90 M3 track car). If your car is set to the appropriate ride height (equal on the left and right side) there is no need for adjustable end links. The only time you will put 'pre-load' on the sway bar is when the left and right ride heights are not set equal (and there is no reason they should be unequal).

                      I could see how adjustable links could come into play with corner balancing, but I've also read BMWs are pretty well balanced from the factory. I'll definitely do my best to test out all this info and report back though!

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • pynaclP
                        pynaclP
                        pynacl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #83

                        Waiting on some suspension parts yet so I started the header install. Have to say that this is MUCH harder than the downpipe install on my F30. Since there's such limited room to work I had to remove the coolant reservoir tank, turkey basting out all the coolant so I didn't make an absolute disaster. Still probably spilled 1/2 gallon on the floor that came out the other end though lol. Even with this and the heat shielding out of the way, access to the 18 nuts is still pretty grueling. Just kept swapping out swivel, wobble and regular extensions, as it seems like each nut requires a different approach. After a few hours I finally got the old set out, woohoo! Still waiting on new gaskets and nuts, but should be here in about a week or so and I can get the new headers installed.

                        IMG0956.jpgIMG0958.jpg

                        IMG0961.jpgIMG0971.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        3
                        • patsbimmer1P
                          patsbimmer1P
                          patsbimmer1
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #84

                          pynacl said:

                          Just so you know our take on the situation... We have never put adjustable end links on any of our track cars(specifically our E90 M3 track car). If your car is set to the appropriate ride height (equal on the left and right side) there is no need for adjustable end links. The only time you will put 'pre-load' on the sway bar is when the left and right ride heights are not set equal (and there is no reason they should be unequal).

                          If that's what they say then I'd go with that!  I know when KW sent me my coilovers they came with a new set of shorter sway bar end links to avoid the pre-loading and I know others that do it as well.  I'm sure it's like everything else handling related where it's heavily opinion based on independent results.  If it works it works!

                          2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                          07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                          97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                          95 325is *sold*
                          93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                          BMWCCA #473306

                          Instagram @patsbimmer1

                          AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                          "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • JdesignJ
                            JdesignJ
                            Jdesign
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #85

                            In the future I would suggest invest in an Airlift. You can suck all the coolant out of the system without spilling much. As far as getting to the manifold bolts, I feel your pain. lol

                            SumBunny.jpg

                            https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                            🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                            👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                            ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                            🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                            1
                            • pynaclP
                              pynaclP
                              pynacl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #86

                              Replaced the CPV o-ring with a viton one while I was waiting on parts to finish the headers. It wasn’t leaking, but seems like a PITA to replace later. While in there I noticed the cam position sensor is leaking a bit. Death by 1000 gaskets…

                              8C79A372-36E0-41C4-B2E3-934173DAA2B0.jpeg01F3D39C-7C31-48FE-AC7F-D23E575DA9DC.jpeg86B78F57-7593-4308-A91C-B1B47E5DC4F8.jpeg

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                              1
                              • RekpointR
                                RekpointR
                                Rekpoint
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #87

                                Dont let the GF know how much you have spent in the last few months.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • pynaclP
                                  pynaclP
                                  pynacl
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #88

                                  Got the ports all cleaned, fresh gaskets, fresh hardware and the headers bolted up. Now just have to sort through the O2 sensor wiring because I’m an idiot and didn’t mark them. I'll have to fire up Ecuworx too and code out the downstream O2 sensor and secondary air pump so we don't get a CEL.

                                  3126D547-3671-46E9-870E-428899358374.jpegCCD0CEBF-72CC-41BD-867C-6F161E22ED39.jpeg

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                                  • pynaclP
                                    pynaclP
                                    pynacl
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #89

                                    Since I went with catless headers, I decided to delete the whole secondary air injection system since I don't think it serves any purpose besides helping in the cat heating sequence (saves 4lbs too). Got this nifty little aluminum block off plate from Achilles Motorsports that looks pretty sweet, even though it will never be seen.

                                    IMG1086.jpgIMG1090.jpg

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                                    1
                                    • pynaclP
                                      pynaclP
                                      pynacl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #90

                                      Since it was looking pretty tired out, I decided to replace the fan blades and fan clutch with a new Mahle one. Better preventatively than to see it grenade and take out the hood or radiator. Personally prefer this setup to an electric fan swap, because it just works. No overheating in hot weather while stopped, no blasting heat in the middle of summer or messing with fan shrouds etc. Easy enough to service so I’ll keep it.

                                      B3242AC1-BD5D-4093-AFD7-DE847D132AB0.jpegE34F79FB-88AF-44D2-AEBC-9E0F9F9C0B81.jpeg

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                                      0
                                      • pynaclP
                                        pynaclP
                                        pynacl
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #91

                                        Also got around to fixing some small oil leaks. One coming from the exhaust side camshaft position sensor o-ring and the other the oil return pipe crush washers.

                                        D987DCF1-B502-4FA2-9DE7-FA9D80030999.jpeg099DB5D9-70D6-4B45-B18C-9EF7C3A258D0.jpeg0F743750-1914-4546-A2D3-93B4EC8862A5.jpeg351FF038-1127-4A71-B905-A5CC68875DB0.jpegAA75009D-9CBA-4B36-B3B9-3B434E750CD4.jpeg

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                                        0
                                        • RekpointR
                                          RekpointR
                                          Rekpoint
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #92

                                          pynacl said:

                                          Personally prefer this setup to an electric fan swap, because it just works. No overheating in hot weather while stopped, no blasting heat in the middle of summer or messing with fan shrouds etc

                                          Why do I feel like this is a jab at me.

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