Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
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stopped at a couple spots while running errands and snapped a few more photos since the car was clean. tried to go to places that are now empty due to the situation where normally cars and people might be in the way.
my photo variety has been boring lately (lots of 3/4 wide shots), but whatever.
Dan
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Those are some wallpaper quality shots.
Dan
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happened to find the moon out last night
This middle german 'style' building seemed appropriate. Fachwerkhäuser!
Milwaukee buildings are displaying red white and blue colors as a display of hope that we will get through this pandemic.
city lights
white on white
Dan
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Is that german building Mader's over on 3rd st? Great photos, if you're looking for other spots you might try over near Kadish park/Kilbourn Reservoir park. Might be some good angles overlooking downtown from North Ave, although its been awhile since I've been over there.
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Is that german building Mader's over on 3rd st? Great photos, if you're looking for other spots you might try over near Kadish park/Kilbourn Reservoir park. Might be some good angles overlooking downtown from North Ave, although its been awhile since I've been over there.
great idea!
nope, thats a county park building near lake park
Dan
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How long of an exposure are you using for these shots?
I was kind of wondering about this as well. The sky seems to have a lot of color to it. I was thinking maybe these were taken not long after sunset... maybe half-hour/hour?
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there is a lot of ambient light in this area, so the exposures were from 5 to 15sec, at ISO400 f7.1
these were taken about 9pm. it was fully dark outside (besides the moon). in my experience, the sky is always blue in long night exposures. from what I read, there are several things that affect that - the moon, time of night, light pollution, etc. i've never had a greyish black long exposure come from the camera. shorter exposures do tend to look greyish black.
my process is this - set the camera to an appropriate aperture (f7 to 9ish for 'landscape' scene) and low ISO and let the camera expose the scene. what will happen a lot is it will expose the maximum time (30sec on my particular camera) and the scene will still be underexposed. i then crank up the ISO until I get a reasonable shot. after getting a close exposure, i use exposure compensation to dial in the exact amount. that will make the camera add or remove a second or two from the exposure. if its REALLY dark out and there arent many light sources, you'll also have to crank the aperture open
also a sturdy tripod and using the shutter timer (or remote) are 100% necessary for exposures these long. you still can handhold night shots, but you'll have to use a big apertures (like 1.8) and high ISO to get the exposure times down.
for example, this shot was handheld. It was shot at f2.2 IS01600 with a 1/4 sec exposure. even at a 1/4sec i took several photos to get one steady enough to be sharp.
and for funzees, here are some non-car long exposure night photos I have taken.
Dan
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Lets go take pics tonight! The blackness of my paint will tie in with the blackness of everything else!
I'd like to see a long exposure needle sweep photo of a tach. Im sure my temperature gauge would have a nice needle sweep too if we wait long enough.
black should be interesting! i'm free tonight, hit me up.
Dan
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black should be interesting! i'm free tonight, hit me up.
It's way past @B C bed time by the time it gets dark
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ok e30 guys, need some help.
my aux fan stopped working a couple months ago and ive finally got around to addressing it. the fan ended up being fine, i think my temporary wiring failed at some joint. anyways, i moved to step 2 of temporary wiring to solve it. i've got the system setup as follows:
4-pin relay.
1. Input power from main positive battery terminal in engine bay, with 30amp fuse inline.
2.Output power to Spal fan
3.Switch power from aux fan wiring (12v on ignition)
4.Switch ground to main engine chassis ground.
the Spal fan ground then goes through the single temp (82c) switch i installed in the radiator, which then goes to chassis ground.:
so, this all works great and the fan did switch on when the temp switch got hot enough and the car cooled down. however, the fan kicked on when needle on the gauge was about a needle's width shy of red. i assumed the lower temp (82c) would get the fan going sooner than that. it seemed to me that the top right corner of the radiator was cooler than the rest of the radiator and that may be why it happened. i've never actually owned an e30 that had working ac, or that overheated in any way to have the AUX fan kick on, so this is new territory for me. is it supposed to kick on that late?
Dan
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The sensor is sensing the cold side of the radiator which is essentially the coolant supplied to the engine. I've had great results with an 80/88c low speed/ high speed switch on multiple e36s but on an e30 I tried it on it seemed late to turn on and the e30 fan isn't as good as e36 aux fan (spal should be better though). I was uncomfortable and reinstalled the mechanical fan. I didn't have a real temp gauge though so I am not sure what the temp really was.
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The sensor is sensing the cold side of the radiator which is essentially the coolant supplied to the engine. I've had great results with an 80/88c low speed/ high speed switch on multiple e36s but on an e30 I tried it on it seemed late to turn on and the e30 fan isn't as good as e36 aux fan (spal should be better though). I was uncomfortable and reinstalled the mechanical fan. I didn't have a real temp gauge though so I am not sure what the temp really was.
the 16" spal fan does work great when its on. you can see the needle fall almost instantly. there is actually no room for a mech. fan with the 24v swap, so that is not an option.
i think i might have to get a
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m
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g
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to check real temperatures of the radiator and engine.
Dan
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