1JZ E30 Vert Build Thread with Pastry filled wheels
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Almost spot on to my plan. I looked at it all for about 3 hours last night and decided my best bet is make a disc that I can weld to the Z4 steel end. This I will then turn on the lathe to make it centric and mark the placement for the mounting bolts. Then I will run two bolts through the plate into the flex disc connecting it to the aluminum E30 U joint.
That's a damn nice illustration. I am basically doing something similar, although the bolts have to be on the outside of the joint as the end caps of the U-joints are press fit with a special tool and hold the bearings to spec and I don't want to pull them apart. Otherwise I won't be able to get a bolt/ U joint stub through the center.
I hope to have something mocked up this evening.
the shaft is press fit into the u-joint? no weld or splines? although i know the resistance of a press fit can be astounding, that's a little disconcerting.
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the shaft is press fit into the u-joint? no weld or splines? although i know the resistance of a press fit can be astounding, that's a little disconcerting.
Correct, and it's in there CRAZY good. You would need to chuck it in a mill to remove it without destroying both parts.
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Made an adapter last night and it came out pretty good. I still need to weld it all together but Im thinking this might be temporary though. I need to prove out that there is no binding with a single joint, otherwise I will take the dimensions and still go with the anti-vibe flaming river joint.
(images wont attach. I will try again later)
I have yet to weld this as I realized that I will not be able to remove the hardware once I do so. I rather not tap threads into the plate but that might be my only option.
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what will the assembly process be? Are the two adapter bolts the last parts to be installed to bolt the column to the rack, or can everything be preassembled? can you just weld the screws into the adapter plate holes on the z4 joint side so you don't have to put a wrench on that side after final welding? or just weld a nut on that side and flip the fastener to avoid having to tap the adapter plate? i'm not sure what your main goal is here - professional fit/finish, ease of maintenance, or ease of fabrication, etc.
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what will the assembly process be? Are the two adapter bolts the last parts to be installed to bolt the column to the rack, or can everything be preassembled? can you just weld the screws into the adapter plate holes on the z4 joint side so you don't have to put a wrench on that side after final welding? or just weld a nut on that side and flip the fastener to avoid having to tap the adapter plate? i'm not sure what your main goal is here - professional fit/finish, ease of maintenance, or ease of fabrication, etc.
It can be preassembled due to the telescoping airbag steering column. I could weld the nuts or bolts to the adapter and call it done. I need to get the right diameter shanked bolts first to see if I’m happy with it. It seems like once it’s all tight, the flex disc deflects and the bolts will just push the material out of the way.
If that’s the case, this might just be a mock up for a flaming river joint. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Successful weekend.
I completed the steering joint and installed it, bolted in new inner and outer tie rods, and I was able to make a pair of E36M3 boots stretch over the bigger bore Z4 rack by putting them in the oven and soften them.
My first expectation of the rack is that lock to lock is super quick. 2.8 rotations or so. Feedback sitting in place is a little bit of a struggle as I kind of expected from what I read online with a non-powered rack. I have had non-powered rack cars before so this isn't new to me. I will potentially look into a electric assist (Similar to this one) later on if it is really bother some. I painted it black in hopes to hide it better in the engine bay.
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Sick of moving the hardtop around, and I didnt want to leave it on the top of the car, I decided to start taking the hardtop apart over the weekend. It proved to be MUCH more challenging than I expected.
One reason; GLUE.
During the assembly, they literally use resin everywhere and glue almost everything in, EVEN if it has fasteners holding it in. Seals, trim, mounts, and fabric are all glued. On the plus side, I inspected all of the seals, latches, and trim and it is all in great shape, just the vinyl and headliner is in visually aging.
Here are pictures as I dismantled it;
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So yeah that happened. I was able to get 3 of the 4 sides completely detached and I didnt think it would be a problem to finish. Although it was a work out as the top wasn't secured to anything, I was holding the top and pulling the carbide through the seal without a problem. the last edge I stopped and determined if I wanted to tape the glass to preventing it from falling or shifting. I removed the tool and stepped back. Heard a loud sealing/suction type noise and watched the window blow out about 5 feet into the air as I was standing about 3 feet away.
I immediately went over to the fridge and poured myself a strong drink.
So here is the top now. Its a weird astro turf color which I would like to think is the dye from the canvas.
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Must’ve had the rear defrost turned on
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Must’ve had the rear defrost turned on
De-Frustered
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Are you still planning to make a copy of that roof with the large window?
Almost done already.
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thats an impressive photoshop, and damn beautiful!
i assume project #3 will be some sort of trunk chop so we can see your spare tire?
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thats an impressive photoshop, and damn beautiful!
i assume project #3 will be some sort of trunk chop so we can see your spare tire?
Thank you! And I was thinking LED valve caps.
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Almost done already.
Oh shit. Is this glass or some form of plexiglass?
How'd you get the bend?
Oh...is this a shop?
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