T4r feat White Whale
-
I would be surprised if you didn't think this was the best winter car you've ever had. I think this has the Haldex AWD and if it does it is such a joy in the snow!
-
I would be surprised if you didn't think this was the best winter car you've ever had. I think this has the Haldex AWD and if it does it is such a joy in the snow!
All I've had is RWD BMWs, so yes. Its Gen II Haldex on an 05 v50 - electronically controlled clutch, FWD only until it its activated by wheelspin. Is an obviously inferior system compared to other manufacturers from an offroad or extreme performance perspective, but its perfect for snowy roads. It has no traction control, which makes me so happy
Congrats on the new ride!!
tack själv!
Dan
-
Looking forward to see you at ice racing this year!
-
All I've had is RWD BMWs, so yes. Its Gen II Haldex on an 05 v50 - electronically controlled clutch, FWD only until it its activated by wheelspin. Is an obviously inferior system compared to other manufacturers from an offroad or extreme performance perspective, but its perfect for snowy roads. It has no traction control, which makes me so happy
tack själv!
I'm not sure you will think it is inferior after driving it. You would think that you could feel the wheel slip and then engagement of AWD but you can't even tell. It does vary the engagement as well. Yes it is limited to a certain horsepower that it can transmit to the rear. But on the P2R I had it would oversteer and do donuts on slippery surfaces if you were fooling around on purpose. If you didn't want it to slide though it was very planted. Mine also had the gen2 Haldex. Change the fluid and filter with only genuine stuff. Yes it's expensive but way more expensive if it fails. And to get the pump out the driveshaft needs to be removed. I added drain plugs to mine by drilling and tapping 1/8 NPT holes at the lowest point in the sump. Drill while full of oil so the draining oil flushes any chips out. I also did that for the rear differential. The custion method doesn't nearly get all of the oil out. Nice find with the M66, that's a very solid transmission.
-
I'm not sure you will think it is inferior after driving it. You would think that you could feel the wheel slip and then engagement of AWD but you can't even tell. It does vary the engagement as well. Yes it is limited to a certain horsepower that it can transmit to the rear. But on the P2R I had it would oversteer and do donuts on slippery surfaces if you were fooling around on purpose. If you didn't want it to slide though it was very planted. Mine also had the gen2 Haldex. Change the fluid and filter with only genuine stuff. Yes it's expensive but way more expensive if it fails. And to get the pump out the driveshaft needs to be removed. I added drain plugs to mine by drilling and tapping 1/8 NPT holes at the lowest point in the sump. Drill while full of oil so the draining oil flushes any chips out. I also did that for the rear differential. The custion method doesn't nearly get all of the oil out. Nice find with the M66, that's a very solid transmission.
️and thanks for the advice on the fluid change and drain plugs. in all my DIYing, i've never drilled/tapped a hole so I'll be sure to practice first. volvo parts are as definitely as expensive as BMW stuff, so I'd prefer to keep it unbroken.
did you add a drain plug like so:
i did really want a P2R, but i discovered a v50 2.5t with a stage 1 tune is the same power/weight and you avoid most of the expensive "R" parts.
Dan
-
️
and thanks for the advice on the fluid change and drain plugs. in all my DIYing, i've never drilled/tapped a hole so I'll be sure to practice first. volvo parts are as definitely as expensive as BMW stuff, so I'd prefer to keep it unbroken.
did you add a drain plug like so:
i did really want a P2R, but i discovered a v50 2.5t with a stage 1 tune is the same power/weight and you avoid most of the expensive "R" parts.
Just a pipe plug like this. They have tapered threads so you use some kind of thread sealant. You can buy them at my store as well. I have a picture somewhere, I will try to find it.
Tapping tapered threads is pretty forgiving. The farther in you run the tap the farther in the plug will go. So you can test it and then tap farther if needed. It is aluminum so it is very soft and easy to drill/tap. The main thing is to be careful that you drill the hole straight on and also to keep the tap straight.
You don't want a P2R. Volvo parts are insanely expensive compared to BMW parts. At least compared to e36 parts. The engine isn't much different from a 2.5t to the R trim. The R I think has lower compression ratio because stock is 1 bar (14.5 psi) boost, 8.5:1 if I remember right.
-
I think the prancing moose is hilarious, but the ferrari yellow badge is just unsightly though.
i think you're right that i'll love it!
I can make the prancing moose sticker in any color you want!
-
I can make the prancing moose sticker in any color you want!
yeah, lets match the paint!
got some things done.
Removed the tint from all 7 windows.
seemed like a factory or dealer tint. the edges were shockingly far under trim/gaskets, i had to pull off door seals and remove the rear hatch trim to get at them. this was a b*tch of a job. most came off with a heat gun, razor blade, and finally with adhesive remover for the residue. the rear window refused this method and had to be bagged for 2 days with amonia, followed by careful scraping around the defroster lines. also found that the luggage area passenger window has defroster lines, which will be nice to have.
Roof rack installed
I went with an older style rack to utilize my round bars and attachments. Yakima RailGrab, with medium clips modified per the photo below. 58" bars
Modified clips:
Removed the poorly done trailer wiring
they had the power source for the controller plugged into a cigarette lighter, instead of hardwired in...
Dan
-
headlights done (well almost, still need to apply the lamin-x)
loving the simplicity of assembly on the volvo. the headlights come out by removing 1 pin and disconnecting 1 plug. it takes approx 10 sec to get them out of the car.
as you can see, the headlights were hazy and very pitted
polished them up first, using the pretty standard method of decreasing grit sandpaper followed by a final polish. I will be sealing them with lamin-x
in order to remove the big pits, i started very agressively with the grit and wetsanded 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, 2500 followed by polishing compound with a DA orbital.
after all the wetsanding you are left with this:
hit it with the polish and here are the results:
of course, I am obsessed with proper lighting on all my vehicles, so even though this car came with factory bixenons, I still upgraded them.
these volvos actually come with an almost identical version of the AL/Bosch projectors found in e46s. their performance is not spectacular and they are known for wearing out the reflective coating on the bowls.
I upgraded to Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 projectors, 3800k bulbs, and kept the factory 35w ballasts. I would have liked to use the bigger FXR projectors i have sitting in my parts bin, but I decided it wouldnt be worth my effort to crack open the headlight and possibly make the self-leveling feature of the factory lights inoperable. As a bonus, the Mini D2S setup is completely reversible to the stock setup if I ever sell the car or need to replace a broken headlight.
Disassembly:
of course the cat had to help
factory projector vs the morimoto (the morimoto on the left)
the retrofit source, where i get most of my parts, has mini D2S to Bosch/AL brackets which is normally used for people fixing their e46s, but it fits the volvo as well. it is the black bracket in the photo below.
used a combination of spacers to get the projector sitting far enough back to clear the plastic headlight bracket.
the factory ignitor fits on the back of the morimoto projector:
boom, done.
I also upgraded the 'city lights' to W5W amber LED bulbs while i was in there.
another bonus is that volvo left the high beam even with the factory bixenon setup, so you get quad high beams!
Dan
-
more work on the clear bra removal. the process I was using was going to be too slow and drive me nuts, so I found something better.
3M Stripe off wheel. Its essentially a rubber wheel that rubs stickers/glue, etc right off the paint. It was unnerving to use at first, but my test corner suggested it wouldn't be a problem. the only drawback is it is not safe to use on plastic body parts like bumpers.
my guess is this bra was installed when the car was new, or soon after. very dirty, scratched, and cracking to pieces
mount the stripe off wheel to a drill and run at 2000+/- rpms and just grind your sticker/bra off.
after wiping the rubber residue off with a little alcohol, the paint underneath looks perfect.
the nose of the hood after once over.
and the final product after wipe down. despite this being a pain in the ass, the clear bra did protect the paint all these years.
Dan
-
to my dismay, the car also arrived with a check engine light, stumbling idle and a belt squeal when the car warms up. i definately have to solve the CEL before registration.
I snagged anOBDII reader with some volvo specific software in it. iCarSoft Volvo/Saab i906-II. I needed one that can also generic scan other cars(for the lady's mazda). I've learned there is a great diagnosis software/reader for Volvos called VIDA/DICE, but its stupid complicated to setup (need an old laptop still running some specific Windows version) and you have to buy shady CD software to get it working so I didnt want to bother.
The scanner worked great. I was able to pull a few codes ECM-310C (Misfire, one cyl), ECM-315C (Misfire cyl 5), and ECM-313D (Misfire cyl 3). The codes suggest a spark/fuel issue specific to cylinders 3/5. I am planning on a 'stage 0' (basically getting maintenance up to snuff) so I decided to just fix spark first and go from there. I threw 5 new Bosch Iridium plugs and 5 new bosch coils at the car, and it fixed the running issue. The car pulls really good, its got more pep than the e34 had.
coils and plugs are very easy on this car, no different than a bmw 6.
also changed the oil (134,400) and threw in a new oil plug as the old one was nearly stripped.
Dan
-
more light stuff.
I upgraded the fog bulbs from H11 to H9s, which is merely a 10w bump. chose a yellow bulb for better visability.
also had one running light burnt out, so i got some w5w amber LEDs, which look nicer than the stock halogens.
Dan
-
I have a Vida/Dice setup. It isn't as bad as it sounds. I just ran it in an Oracle virtual machine on my Surface Pro (Windows 8). The functionality is amazing. Test fire a fuel injector, see inputs/outputs of every module, it's all there. It's pretty cool.
it sounds super helpful. i am keeping my eye out for an old free/junker laptop that has windows 7. any ideas for sources that will be reputable for the reader and software? seems like it might just be a crap-shoot ordering from Chinese companies on ebay...
Dan
-
You don't want a P2R. Volvo parts are insanely expensive compared to BMW parts. At least compared to e36 parts. The engine isn't much different from a 2.5t to the R trim. The R I think has lower compression ratio because stock is 1 bar (14.5 psi) boost, 8.5:1 if I remember right.
I loved my V70R when I had it some years ago, but in hindsight, I don't think the cost of the big ticket parts justified the car - especially now with the cost of them being obnoxious.
it sounds super helpful. i am keeping my eye out for an old free/junker laptop that has windows 7. any ideas for sources that will be reputable for the reader and software? seems like it might just be a crap-shoot ordering from Chinese companies on ebay...
If you just get the DICE unit I have the VADIS software you can use to download on to a computer. It is an excellent tool if you have a newer Volvo. The amount of communication you can do with the car is very helpful when diagnosing things or just general maintenance. Also - there are lots and lots of maintenance procedures on there that mechanics would use.
As an example - when the alternator went out on my S60R which left me stranded up north. I plugged the car into VADIS and it ran a self test on the alternator - loading it at different RPMs and it ultimately failed the test to confirm it was bad.
-
-
sounds like VADIS doesnt cover the v50.
I can check the menus to see if I can select it as a vehicle, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t. If you’re ever up this way you could stop by and plug your car in to see if it reads it.
edit: actually as I dig deep into my brain holes I remember using it on my Wife’s C30 a while ago. Same platform as the V50. And I’ve probably used it on my Dad’s S40.
-
it sounds super helpful. i am keeping my eye out for an old free/junker laptop that has windows 7. any ideas for sources that will be reputable for the reader and software? seems like it might just be a crap-shoot ordering from Chinese companies on ebay...
Using a virtual machine makes it so you can run it on any computer you want as long as it has a USB port which most do. If you aren't familiar you are running another "virtual" computer from your desktop after starting your "host" machine operating system like you always do. It isn't like the old BMW software that needs a clunker computer with a serial port. The virtual desktop is the "old clunker computer" eliminating the need for another piece of hardware.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login