That is awesome! I plastic welded mine in my manifold kept coming off

this^!

Snap said: So time the cams with the cams at TDC and the timing chains removed and the engine 45 deg off TDC. Then rotate engine back to TDC and attach chains. This is my interpretation Exactly.

If you need to compare any part numbers check www.realoem.com

I might need to throw a set of injectors in my coupe then=) How much were these and what ones do you think would suits the m52?

The "rule of thumb" my engine builder used was bore x .005 for upper compression ring and bore x .0055 for the lower compression ring which resulted in a cringeworthily small .016" and .018" gaps. First of all use a piece of broken ring to make sure you clean all the carbon out of the grooves thoroughly. Very important The stock ring end gap for a stock non-boosted engine is .012"-.020" upper and .012"-.020" lower. Some boosted V8 guys run .025" upper and lower gaps. The ring manufacturers will have some guidance as well Personally I would go 020" upper and .022 lower at minimum. It was the lower rings that were wrecked the most from the thermal expansion on my engine. [image: fec94b0712260ac7df12f37455bfbb12.jpg]

Thanks.  I submitted my info on their website (a while ago) but no reply. 

Yeow. Thanks for this. Just did a quick search and the issue with constant draw seems to be the red power wire. Luckily I used the white. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=342230

damnboy037 said: Snap to the rescue, thanks man.   http://abloriginalparts.com this is where I went for the ews delete Oh wow looks like those guys have a plug and play standalone system too. It shows the stock euro s50 dme is 88 pin connector on that site

Snap said: Thank you! Also: Transparent. Didnt know we had 1980's stereo speaker wire going on here This makes me believe that the clear speaker wiring in my car could be factory?!?!       

bk335 said: Since you've got upgraded turbos, IMO it'd be a good idea to get a custom tune from somebody like Ken at Wedge, Motiv, etc. I live in Milwaukee and work in Tosa, what color is your 135i? I've seen a handful around the area recently. Yes I was thinking of going with Trebila, he has a lot of great reviews on N54tech.com. My 135i is white, looks completely stock right now minus blackline tail lights and black grills... Its a sleeper, ha

Unless this picture is very misleading i believe i am in luck, but time will tell [image: e30%20vdo%20gear%20repair%20(6).JPG]

That sucks. My compact came factory with an lsd but it was sold when the car was being parted

I would see spring rates attributing much more to ride quality than using camber plates vs isolated mounts.

After doing 8 weeks of research while waiting for winter to end, everything points to Michelin Pilot Super Sports as the benchmark tire. Why get anything else? After the long wait, mine are going on this Monday, pics to come soon.

if you aren't completely happy, those post extenders i original shared are like $5 at advanced auto parts, saw them when I stopped in the other day.

I got the exact same quote and diagnosis from Zimbrick for the ticking noise on my 2006 330xi.  People have commented that it just noisy, however there has to be wear taking place. How long have people had the issue without mechanical / lifter failure? I'm new to the WI Bimmmers!

I use skate park rules and snake everyone I can.

Good deal, I have an older Hobart 110v, the gun says Miller on it.  I used flux core for a little while.  Now I have a gas bottle and it is much better.  Practice with different settings, you can weld, let cool, weld, let cool, etc when doing sheet rather than trying to do a continuous bead.  With a little practice you will know just how long to hold it before you need to let up so it doesn't burn through.

I hate making u-turns and (try) avoid them at all costs.