straight6pwr said: headlight terrarium.  youre a genius. maybe toss a gecko or two in there. Old News... [image: Related image][image: Related image][image: Related image][image: Image result for fish tank headlight]

Is that on the outlet passage from the engine?  The purpose of the fan is to be sure that the coolant supplied to the engine from the cold side of the radiator is below the switch setpoint.  The main purpose to change that system is to put a lower temperature switch in when removing the mechanical fan.  For example most e36 models come with a 91/99C switch for low/high speed.  I have installed the factory 80/88C switch when removing the mechanical fan.  Then the fan will activate when the coolant supply to the engine climbs to 80C (176F) and will ramp up to high speed when coolant reaches 88C (190F).  That is plenty adequate to cool the engine.  If you supply colder coolant it just causes the thermostat to be farther closed to restrict the flow so no more cooling is achieved.  With the temp switch there you are measuring the coolant temp coming out of the engine which will always be the same (thermostat temperature)  So there is no way to know if the coolant returning to the engine is cool enough to provide adequate cooling.  The only thing it does is run the fan excessively depending on the combination of thermostat and fan switch temperature. Not trying to rain on your parade, just sharing what I have learned about these cooling systems.

Dunno if you found a set of wheels yet but ac schnitzer and ccw lm5 have a similar look. AC Schnitzer can be found all over ebay and internet if you're looking for used. CCW is American made so even though they're more rare in the used market, you can order easily from them.  Other 5 spoke wheels I can think of are Work equip 05 and meisters,

Wow! That color is beautiful.

Thanks!  That won't work then.  I thought it had a shorter head anyway.  That's what i needed though.  Apparently it is really difficult to find a socket head cap screw in M18x1.5.  Most are the normal coarse thread of 2.5.  I need a bolt to thread into the end of the steering rack to attach my offset/spacer parts.

6inarowmakesitgo! said: Make sure you use plenty of zddp with every oil change  Is this only necessary tell I reach 5 or 6,000 miles when I switch over to synthetic?

retoropak said: I thought about swapping volvo 4 cylinder red block with 16 valve head into my e21. Interesting. For some reason a redblock swap never crossed my mind... makes sense though. Keeps it somewhat "period correct" if that's a thing. Not quite as much of a bastardization as putting a japanese engine from the early 2000s. Not gonna happen, but it's interesting.

Thanks for the responses, I ended up going the safe route and spending hours swapping around the seatbelt bolts, it was horrible but at least it'll be safe now. For anyone wondering, if you are going to swap pyro seatbelt tensioners on to seats that originally had mechanical tensioners, you have to swap the seatbelt bolt too because they are different for pyro and mechanical. The seatbelt bolt in a mechanical tensioner seat is shorter and doesn't allow the pyro tensioner to sit flat and tight with the seat rail

This is why dyno tuning is the best for the most power and safety. If you are only gaining 10 hp from the extra 10 deg of timing is it worth the risk?

m42b32 said: If it's a CM5908, someone on r3v just released a really awesome Bluetooth conversion for those! https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=421082 That thing looks pretty awesome!

@HipMF thank you for your input.

If you pick a county that doesn't emissions test you won't have to take it. You can change it at the DMV if your car isn't up for registration. [image: IMG\_1784.GIF]

Keep playing around in Carly app. There are other boxes that you can tick, I think, for LED lights.

thats an e36/e34 wheel (doesnt fit e30s) they are considerably cheaper than e30 versions. i have one in the touring. i think i paid $175 for it.

I had run 55w DDM stuff in my e30's for awhile and they were okay, less the occasional failures. I bought a set of TRS (the retrofit source) HID kits for my E46 when the stock ballast died, and holy crap is their stuff light years better than the DDM kits. The 35w TRS kit seemed to be far brighter than the 55w DDM kits, and the warranty that backs up the TRS stuff is good. I don't think I would go back to a cheap setup again.

Does anyone have any experience with nscexpert/inpa? I’m going to be getting the programs and want to do some coding on my e46. Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated!

P_Roloff said: Yeah, if you can get it cheap enough it might be worth a shot. I’ll keep an eye out for you too, if I find anything I’ll let you know.  Thanks! I appreciate it!

El Snapo said: Dont forget offset control arm bushings. They increase dynamic camber change Those will also probably be in the cards eventually, but if I do the CABs I’m gonna refresh the entire front end, and I really don’t know if I have the time/energy/funds to do that this summer. I guess we’ll see haha.

Anything should be fine besides Chinese junk.  As long as you pay attention that it lights up with key on engine off and it goes out when the engine starts it should be fine.  A friend recently trashed the engine in his Ford Focus because the light or sensor didn't work and he ran out of oil.  It got loud and started losing power but there weren't any warning lights so he drove to the next highway exit and that was too late.

Snap said: always wing it compensate with zip ties and rtv #RTVtheworld