someone said: The RS would cost you well over a grand. And I meant freshly. If you run adapters you would need a ton of fender work to fit style 5 splits. On a 5 lug swap it wouldn't be bad. Yeah not sure what to do... decisions decisions. I think my wheel whoring days are pretty much over. My euroweaves look nice, but im just not too fond of 15" on the e30, I ran several sets back in the day. But I never ran 16" and I think 16 or 17" would be perfect. More towards 16 though. Also question for those who know. The 16 and 15" BBS RS shared the same size faces correct? You have to step up to a 17" RS to get a bigger face...???

this sounds about right....

Btw, link didnt work for me... are you talking about the snap on underslung blaster? I could see this being much more stable in hand.... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=642433&group_ID=675781&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/images/PSB500AR.jpg

Bleblob, if you are still thinking about a swap let me know. I know them inside and out. And to top it off, mine is running like a champ! Lol

wow.... ive swapped many diffs... never had anything seized up so bad I had to chop the DS in half. Oh well, im guessing you didnt need it anymore. I just apply heat with a torch, quench with PB blaster.... give it some time... Use a 1/2" breaker bar... if that doesnt work repeat heat, quench, time.... sooner or later it will come. Might have to use impact sockets as well and an airdrive. Biggest thing is remember to disconnect the speed sensor before you drop the diff or you could fuck it up. I did that once... [image: :(]

Beautiful welds.

Fuses all check out good, well. Except my rear lights, but I got that fixed. Dunno. Pulled the gauge cluster, no solder looks to be cracked/etc. Anyone else? The wires to the coil all check out as well. From the looks of it...

Just in case anyone is interested in a DIY clutch stop, Menards in West Allis has the 3/8"-16x 1-1/2" elevator bolts ($0.99) and the 1-1/2" gripper pads (eight pack for $2.48). Add in a 3/8 x 1-1/2" fender washer and a 3/8-16x hex nut and you are good to go for about $5 total. Stick the gripper pad on the elevator bolt head, thread the nut onto the bolt, put the washer on the bolt. Unscrew the stock clutch stop (plastic screw), screw in the new one, adjust to preferred height, tighten hex nut. Good to go. Elevator bolts are not listed on their web site but they have them in stock in the bolts section of the store. http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/fasteners/furniture-hobby-hardware/1-1-2-gripper-pads/p-1469346-c-12190.htm

Sagaris said: From a 325e? Yes they will work but the eta wires do not have the impulse sensor on the #6 wire that the 325i does so all 6 injectors will fire simultaneously instead of batch fire (3 at a time). As a result the car will get a little worse fuel mileage. It's just a 325, but that car does have the b27. Thanks!

Well since no one posted I will post and provide an update to my thread. I ended up going with the BMS Powerbox piggy back "tune". While it realistically only provided like 5-8hp it did fix the awful throttle lag associated with my version of the E90. So far for $278 I am pretty happy.

I use a guy named Mike in Kenosha, he does amazing work. Shoot me a PM and i'll give you his number. It cost me $100 to have an m20 valve cover mirror polished.

maybe you have a burnt wire coming from the fuse box. if the jumping worked then awesome

Sorry ramps, I will probably be trading it for a 2.93LSD

Work in a shop in Ripon area, if you have not taken care of it yet let me know. Got lots of tools and a hoist [image: ;)].

When following the Bentley manual the ball joint was to be tightened to spec and the connection to the frame under load. That is what I did. Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

I have a set, I would require a deposit of 300.00 and a rental fee of 50.00 for a period of 1 month. 300 deposit will be refunded once tools are returned

Im getting towards needing new shocks and struts. So those need replacement, I would like to lower it a little, would prefer something matched, and trying to get something decent while staying between $350-450. Just getting spring right now won't help my worn shocks. In fact it'll make them complete garbage even faster.

At this point the buzzing is still present, but right now I am just driving the car like normal. Anyone have any other ideas on what the issue is and how to resolve? Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

Glad to hear it's running, never a prob! I like a good challenge!

It can be done and has been..... just added machine work. What it all intails is beyond me, just not worth it. Find a reqular m20