It depends on what kind of fault you have. There are some BMW specific fault codes that the auto zone scanner won't read. I'd just buy INPA.

Thanks guys for the speedy replies. : D I have quite a personal situation. I need to see what all of the wiring looks like behind the steering column and up under the driver's foot panel as well as the EWS exactly as it looks right out of the factory. I need to see the same for the trunk. I've taken many pictures of blatantly obvious tampering in both areas as evidenced by appearance, a white zip tie securing the huge thick group of wires and the dust disturbance pattern and fingerprints. There was absolutely no repair/service done in these areas. I have all of the records and a car fax. I contacted 2 separate service advisors, one being a manager with regard to the white zip tie and I showed several clear pictures. I know that all zip ties are black for the wiring when Bimmers are manufactured. I never heard back from either manager to include the Service Manager at BMW. The car was a 1 owner when I bought it in June of 2011. I spoke with the original owners and they absolutely did not have anything installed aftermarket or through the dealer.

Haha! Maybe a little bit. The spraying I think was because I didn't seat the gasket on correctly, and then drove around. It appeared to have "sprayed" because the engine was covered in oil, but perhaps I exaggerated a bit [image: :)]. Got a new radiator fan, radiator mount (holy shit only $39 on ebay w/ free shipping), and the cap & bleed screw for my expansion tank. Waiting on the gasket to get here and then we'll see how it all goes! I'm hoping the engine was shaking because of the now-asymmetrical radiator fan... hence the new one I ordered.

Chevrolet C10 lights are 7" as well. I thought the same. but you'd still be paying an arm and a leg for the actual grill. Just get the kit or the parts from someone over the pond. $300. It'd be worth it

but it'll require trimming of the non projector style buckets

Not the same. But thanks though! I have industrial,( and I mean industrial) zipties. That have a breaking strength up in the... 200lbs of force range. ? I used them in a bout 4 locations to hold the motor in/and to not shift, until I can find a new motor mount!

If it's a northern car, you probably won't get the cat section separated from the catback without cutting the bolts and putting new in.  With 2 people you can drop the whole thing without too much trouble though.  You need a large channel locks to loosen the nut in the middle of the driveshaft to get it to shorten.  The CSB needs to be preloaded when installed, a fancy term for push it forward 1cm before tightening the bolts.  Mark the 2 parts of the shaft when you separate so you can reassemble the same way.

Thanks all for the replies. I think i'll try re-dying, but I am afraid of the dye rubbing off on everything... tsweers89 said: Its one thing to re-dye the seats the same color. But when doing a entire different color it tends not to work well. You wont get everything covered and there will be different shades throughout the seat. I went from grey to beige (out of a 430 italia) and got not so good results. This is with doing correct prep work. in the end I just got my seats recovered in the correct color leather. $1350 is what I got charged for labor and material. Using a nappa leather. Seemed pretty cheap for what the end product was. Going back to get my lower dash and center console covered in the same thing soon. Who recovered the seats for you?  I'm looking for a well regarded local auto upholsterer as another option.

Thanks guys. Earl, I'm going to post some more pics tonight to show the damage to that fender mount area. Also the piece of metal that wraps over where the strut bolts in and comes down to the front of the wheel well is pretty messed up in the corner. I don't think it affected the tire or suspension, but that may also be something that can't easily be repaired. When I post them, if you could give me a best guess that'd be great [image: :D]

umm, yes... exactly what i was going to say. Like the prostitute says: 'It's not the work. It's the stairs.'

Thanks for the replies! I just bought one nick.e46!

tsweers89 said: Back of the engine on a v8, most likely a valley pan which is under the intake manifold. e34's are known to have bad heater cores but that would be leaking inside the car. Otherwise there are some 2 coolant hoses that go to the heater core in the engine bay. Id inspect the valley pan and go from there. If no leak is visually seen there then pressure test the system and inspect. Are you talking about #5 in the diagram?  [image: 105.png]

It is 100% possible to do just the joints and you can rent a ball joint press from Advance Auto.  I was fortunate enough to use an impact and a ball joint press at work to do a few.  It is really not that much more difficult to save yourself the $100.  You could also make friends with a shop and they may only charge a few tenths of an hour to do it once the arms are off.

Oh my sides hurt

I know that Toyota has a "tolerance" for seeping/ leaking struts/shocks and bases most of their replacement recommendations on mileage.  I always based recommendations on mileage and visual inspection.  I have never heard of an aftermarket saying that it is normal to have any seepage immediately after replacing a shock or strut.

jc43089 said: In that case you should get the 80/88C fan thermostat.  It should be on the passenger side of the radiator.  Looks like this, but the plastic might be black.  Swap the switch, plug the connector in and your stock electric fan will turn on at a much more appropriate temperature, easy, cheap, and OE replacement parts for a clean look. P/N is: 61 31 8 361787 It seals with a crush washer so get that too:  32 41 1 093 596. You're the man, thanks for all the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Used parts are used parts. No point in having to do the job twice as it fails again down the road or worse leaves you on the side of the road. What year and model? I get parts discount through some suppliers. You would have to come to me to pick it up or if you wanted me to install it i would do that for extra cost

Looking forward to the walkthrough. My upper rad house just went out. I knew I should if replaced it when I had the tensioners and pulley and clutch fan... lesson learned again.. now I have to drive the rally wagon with bad brakes... Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

Yep, they lose shape as they age.  These I assume are original from my 89 with 150k. [image: 021\_zps745408d2.jpg]

Idle should be about 650 when warmed up I think.  Because of all of the issues I would unhook the battery and short the cables together to clear the ECU.  It adapts to/remembers things.  When I swapped a light flywheel into a late e36 it idled like crap when first started, surging and hunting.  Then we cleared the ecu and it ran perfect.  It just has to adapt to the new operating conditions.