Okay. I seen that there was a post on r3v that a guy did it similar to that. I was just hoping someone had one. I would have just recreated them as best I could put of 7 ga steel at work.
I did the shark injector on my dad's e46 330i and there was a noticeable difference in power. The most noticeable change was the immediate throttle response from the drive-by-wire settings changing.
I seem to have the best luck if I just start it and drive. Seems like if I let it mine idle for any length of time on a cold start up, I end up with junk in my ICV and the car starts running like crap. If I just start and go I don't seem to have too many problems. I live in town, so I don't end up going much over 30mph for the first 5 minutes or so anyway.
I looked into purchasing a kit, but wasn't sure which one I needed. Price ranges from around 40 bucks to 300...I would imagine there is a certain dye needed for an oil leak, as opposed to an A/C leak...?
I just bought a set of OEM M-techs. I like E30s both with/without but thought they might work out nice with the IS front valence. I'll try to post pics when I eventually put them on.
i've used 15/20mm spacer with long bolts, and also 4x100 to 5x120 adapters and have had no problems with failures. However, I've stopped using all of them because they are a monumental pain the in butt, usually. Wheel changes are harder, you have to have extra regular length lugs if you are still using winter tires which dont use spacers, and if you've ever had a spacer get seized to the hub, you'll want to kill yourself.
I just put the 93 octane in this morning and it doesn't seem to make a difference. It might delay the sound a little bit but it's hard to tell. I do normally run 91 octane though so is it possible the 93 isn't a big enough change to make the engine change?
I never thought of the driveshaft actually. The sound seems to be coming from the passenger footwell so I figured either an axle or the engine. When I put the driveshaft in last summer I made sure I lubed it correctly, hopefully that's not the case but I'll check into it.
ABS is handy for 'no-brainer' driving situations. When you're commuting you don't want to have to focus on brake modulation. However, in performance driving situations like twisty back roads or tracks, ABS gives you a less connected feeling. ABS for AutoX all day.
DSC works. It just does. For the casual driver, it usually means the difference between driving home or calling a tow truck to get you out of a snowy ditch.
Look at the Scandinavian model for auto licensing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Driving_licence_in_Norway
It's no wonder the best drivers of all time are from Scandinavian countries. It's not a right, it's a priviledge, and they treat it as such.
That is the part yes i just wanted to double check. Its not a cheap part and i had seen a lot of part# with different discriptions and did not want to end up with the wing for a 2door or a high wing like the ltw thanks for the answer to my question.
