1990 e30
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You are doing great!
Thanks bud!
I forgot to mention, the flex sensor is placed on the fuel return line which is 6AN. The other line (feed) is 8AN.
I have a question for the community. I have been really thinking about going to a fuel cell. What do you recommend and what should I look for?
This is what the flex table looks like in holley, note that I stole this image from google images and the table is not set up properly. There is another table just like this that will subtract or add ignition time per the ethanol %. The possibilities are endless... As a former mega squirt/tunerstudio user, Holley is just way more user friendly.
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Personally I would not get a fuel cell. The location of the stock tank is in a great spot. If you’re worried about starvation, just get a surge tank setup.
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Personally I would not get a fuel cell. The location of the stock tank is in a great spot. If you’re worried about starvation, just get a surge tank setup.
I had planned on adding a surge tank once I run out of fuel pump. Since I've had to modify the return line because it doesn't flow enough and the factory tank having old rubber (not ethanol friendly). I think its a better and safer option to transition to a cell. I do agree @KaiserRolls, the factory tank is well positioned in a safe place and low center of gravity. Perhaps it may be worthwhile to pull the tank and modify it to fit dual pumps. There is still that venturi/return line that is responsible for transferring fuel from one side to the other. How do you get around that venturi?
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There is still that venturi/return line that is responsible for transferring fuel from one side to the other.
Not really sure what's being referenced here, but I would agree that keeping the stock tanks makes sense regardless of any changes that are needed in the delivery system. I put a cell in because the factory tanks physically didn't fit anymore.
I modified/welded a tank on a motorcycle once... and then JB welded it when it weaped fuel through the welds, and then re-welded and re-painted, and it still leaked... Didn't want to go down that road again, but the fuel cell isn't ideal either. Mine's not connected to the fuel filler outside the car and there is air circulating around in the trunk, which settles in the crevices around the cap, so I'm pretty sure I'm dropping dust/grit into the fuel cell every time I open it...
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This car is wicked
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Not really sure what's being referenced here, but I would agree that keeping the stock tanks makes sense regardless of any changes that are needed in the delivery system. I put a cell in because the factory tanks physically didn't fit anymore.
I modified/welded a tank on a motorcycle once... and then JB welded it when it weaped fuel through the welds, and then re-welded and re-painted, and it still leaked... Didn't want to go down that road again, but the fuel cell isn't ideal either. Mine's not connected to the fuel filler outside the car and there is air circulating around in the trunk, which settles in the crevices around the cap, so I'm pretty sure I'm dropping dust/grit into the fuel cell every time I open it...
Personally I would not get a fuel cell. The location of the stock tank is in a great spot. If you’re worried about starvation, just get a surge tank setup.
I've got something in the works for the stock fuel tank
.@HipMF the late model e30 fuel tank uses a venturi type of jet pump to get fuel transferred over the saddle to the passenger side of the tank where the fuel pump is. The issue I had is that the venturi is too small thus restricting my fuel return and backing everything up (i.e my fuel pressure was not adjustable it was pegged at 70 psi due to this restriction). My fuel pump is massive like 525lph.
@KaiserRolls this venturi pump is the reason a surge tank setup wouldn't work with the factory fuel system (unless you didn't plumb the return to the surge tank). You have to be able to transfer fuel over the saddle. Unless you have an early model tank.
I found an aftermarket high flow venturi pump and I will be retrofitting a whole new hangar system to the stock fuel tank...hold my beer. Updates to come. In the meanwhile, check out my haggard (but it worked) fix to relieve the return fuel pressure.
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Alrighty so this is working out quite well so far. The tank has a reinforcement plate spot welded in 6 spots surrounding the hangar mount. These 6 spot welds just happen to line up perfectly with the aftermarket hangar that I have :).
Here's that reinforcement plate that was inside the tank. Had to be removed so that the split ring mount could be used in its place. It was easy enough.
Last, here is a preliminary look at the new hangar, these straight fittings won't be used. The fittings are 1/4" NPT and I have 6an adapters installed. I also already have the electrical bulkhead fitting installed as well. Just waiting on the venturi pump which should be in today and then I have one final order to submit from McMaster to get the rest of the hardware.
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Finished up the hangar. The theme is PTFE...everything is PTFE to withstand ethanol. Even the shrink wrap is PTFE and sealing. I have an order on the way from summit with the AN fittings and AN hose needed to wrap this up and install the tank back in the car. All of this crap for a return line restriction. On the plus side, everything in the feed and return is 3/8" vs the factory 5/16" if it's even that with those tight kinked bends (especially on the factory hangar). If I need more fuel I will now be able to utilize a surge tank no problem.
Managed to get that all in there, took a little bit.
O-ringed the bolts
Bam! Final product.
For good measure...
And here is the jet pump pickup...good ol zip tie
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I did a test on the effectiveness of the venturi jet pump. It was able to pump 1 gallon of fuel to the other side of the tank in 36 seconds with fuel pressure holding solid at 43psi. There was a fu*king tornado in the tank lmao. Very impressed.
I've added a turbine back pressure sensor and a 3 port boost control solenoid. All plumbed and wired in...
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What’s the idea with das loopinator?
My guess is heat, helps protect the sensor probably
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Throwing a guess in for vibration resistance given that it’s all hardline
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What’s the idea with das loopinator?
My guess is heat, helps protect the sensor probably
Correct, the loop serves to dissipate heat from the exhaust gasses passing through before reaching the pressure sensor. It also dampens the exhaust pulses as they pass through the tubing and absorbs vibrations. I also installed a 0.04" restrictor/damper just prior to the sensor just to make sure the readings are stable.
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Been awhile, here are some updates on the car.
Finally got around to installing the remote brake bias adjuster.
I got some new front wheels and tires. The tires rubbed on the factory wheel well liner so I made some new ones from hdpe. They clear with about a 1/4" to spare! Don't mind the socket spacer, I have some proper spacers on the way from McMaster along with some button head screws to replace those hex heads.
Yes, transmission jack...the spring is removed.
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Clear when turning under load too?
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Clear when turning under load too?
Well if having the spring removed and the shock completely compressed counts as “under load” then yes. Lol
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