T4r feat White Whale
-
it sounds super helpful. i am keeping my eye out for an old free/junker laptop that has windows 7. any ideas for sources that will be reputable for the reader and software? seems like it might just be a crap-shoot ordering from Chinese companies on ebay...
Using a virtual machine makes it so you can run it on any computer you want as long as it has a USB port which most do. If you aren't familiar you are running another "virtual" computer from your desktop after starting your "host" machine operating system like you always do. It isn't like the old BMW software that needs a clunker computer with a serial port. The virtual desktop is the "old clunker computer" eliminating the need for another piece of hardware.
-
Using a virtual machine makes it so you can run it on any computer you want as long as it has a USB port which most do. If you aren't familiar you are running another "virtual" computer from your desktop after starting your "host" machine operating system like you always do. It isn't like the old BMW software that needs a clunker computer with a serial port. The virtual desktop is the "old clunker computer" eliminating the need for another piece of hardware.
i'm familiar with the concept of running virtual machines, although I've never set one up. i hadnt heard this would work for VIDA until now, but this is better news. i found this link, which seems very comprehensive for software setup. https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?481385-VIDA-Dice-2014D-VM-Image-Download-Link/page21&s=68b72d25b531ced85356522fc6f4069a
now, questions still remain. can I hijack my fiances laptop for this?
and, which cheap fake DICE unit to trust buying.Dan
-
i'd also like to report that finally after a lot of hurdles, the car is registered and on the road. newbie question: this is the first car that I've owned that is OBDII and has emissions requirements. at the DMV they didnt say poo about that and gave me current registration tags. I thought it would be contingent on me passing the scan?
Dan
-
now, questions still remain. can I hijack my fiances laptop for this?
and, which cheap fake DICE unit to trust buying.I got mine on Amazon. or aliexpress was another place I got one once.
-
i'd also like to report that finally after a lot of hurdles, the car is registered and on the road. newbie question: this is the first car that I've owned that is OBDII and has emissions requirements. at the DMV they didnt say poo about that and gave me current registration tags. I thought it would be contingent on me passing the scan?
You'll get mailed a letter that says you need to do emissions and then the emissions place lets the DMV know that you passed. If you don't do it they suspend the vehicle's registration.
-
-
Got my snow tires mounted just in tyme for pudding. I picked up some cheap stock Volvo wheels ( 17x7 Arrakis) on Facebook marketplace and threw 205/50R-17 Uniroyal Tiger Paw Ice & Snow 3 SL on them. Used Volvo rims are few and far between, but are cheap when you find them. I like a lot of their factory styles as well.
now that it has already snowed, I can say "bring it on!"
Dan
-
Should be able to use any laptop with some free hard drive space. I downloaded an image from some guys thread named Roxy or something like that. Then I just opened the image. He probably fixed it by now but there used to be an issue with the license expire date but I had downloaded it right after the license expired. I could also export my image and send it to you because it works perfect. I use the Oracle virtualbox program because it's free.
The seller I bought my DICE from didn't have any active listings but it looked just like this one. It came with a sticker over the Volvo logo. Honestly they are probably made at night at the same factory as real Volvo units. What I mean is the cable quality and everything is very good.
Mine looks just like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Volvo-Vida-Dice-2014D-OBD2-OBDII-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-Fault-Code-Reader/193000760162?epid=14030737443&hash=item2cefbde362:g:C30AAOSwMdddMRXf
-
got my headlights aimed today. diagnosed my auto-leveling motors as dead, which I'm partially happy about. if they were working and died in the future, i wouldnt fix em anyways.
i'm very happy with these mini d2s 5.0 projectors. great width and even lighting. much better than the stock AL ones.
aiming via garage door
low beams
quad high beams
Dan
-
Those are awesome.
Seeing that sharp cutoff reminds me of the projectors I had on my B5 A4 and I wonder if anyone else experiences this: my parents live out in the country kind of by Madison (Columbus) and the road to their house has some relatively steep hills and, because the lights had such a sharp cutoff, as I approached the hill all I could see was road. I couldn't see where the road was going until I started going up the hill. If there was a deer standing in the middle of the road halfway up the hill, I would have had no idea. After that, I decided I didn't really like projectors. It was a very scary drive for a few minutes - they hit usually 2-3 deer a winter by them so it was a very real thing that there could have been a deer right "above" the cutoff.
-
thanks!
i have experienced that and agree its not great, but it is also rare that it would happen without you being able to flick your high beams on. hills should also be approached with caution regardless, as when you crest them, it doesnt matter what lights you have you can't see the abyss below. the extra safety gained in other scenarios vastly outweighs this, IMHO. I've logged thousands of miles on trips to and from the northwoods with my projector setups, and have not had a problem with seeing animals in the road. in fact, the extra width gained with projectors lets me see all those goddamn deer on the sides of the road and has helped me avoid a few would-be bumper burgers.
Dan
-
they hit usually 2-3 deer a winter by them
just caught this. you have to have a hard conversation with your parents and tell them they need to 'adjust their driving style.'Dan
-
thanks!
i have experienced that and agree its not great, but it is also rare that it would happen without you being able to flick your high beams on.
This was always with high beams on. I think it was the only car I've owned with more "modern" projectors. Either way, something I noticed with them.
just caught this. you have to have a hard conversation with your parents and tell them they need to 'adjust their driving style.' They've lived there for several years, unfortunately it's not their driving style. Lots of steep up and down hills, lots of tight cornered country roads, many of the roads don't have shoulders and have 6' drop-offs that even with the best headlights you wouldn't see a deer, and all farms that are hunted on. The deer sprint across the road, there's nothing you can do about it.
-
so back during the heart of winter the car developed a severe rear end roaring noise. after poking around it was clearly the driver's rear wheel bearing. at the time I bought bearings for both sides and swapped out the drivers in a hurry one cold night. today I did the other since it was so nice outside in the driveway and snapped pictures. easiest wheel bearings I've ever done.
remove wheel
remove caliper (two 13mm bolts on bracket). remove 14mm axle nut from center of hub. knock off the rotor
the wheel bearing/hub is held on by four torx bolts, seen right behind the hub. remove them, tap out the axle, then bang and pry on the hub to separate it from the control arm. (it may be fairly stuck)
what your left with after removing the bearing/hub unit
clean it up and apply some antiseize for future self
old and new bearings
installation is reverse of removal. couldnt find torque specs for the 4 mounting bolts, but the axle bolt is only 25lbs.
throw on the summer wheels while you're in there. 🤪 sorry northern dudes.
Dan
-
Was the same on my xc70. Bolt in bearings are my favorite!
-
had a fun problem crop up recently.
I found about 2 inches of standing water in the rear passenger footwell after all this rain
turns out these cars have a common problem where the roof drain hose shrinks over time and comes dissconnected from the plastic drain above the firewall.
suspicions comfirmed:
you can just see where the rubber hose is out from the black plastic piece.
the offending hose:
some duct tape and zip ties to stretch it back into place temporarily. the better fix is to patch in a new section of rubber hose.
but on a brighter note, the Volvo has been great for our normal summer rec activities, hauling the two kayaks and associated gear with ease, leading to some great time on the water already this year.
Dan
-
well after a year (since i fixed the water leak), the musty car smell remained in the v50 and i decided to bite the bullet and get the carpet completely out to dry. i thought the carpet was still wet from the original leak (there is a lot of foam underneath) but it turns out that it was still actively getting wet from:
1. The AC drain was plugged and dripping water into the cabin and
b) one of the two rear sunroof drains was also plugged and leaking.
i didnt think to take pictures of the process, but it was pretty easy. Be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the front seats for all the airbag sensors.
Remove: rear seat, front seats, center waterfall and console, 4x door sill plastic covers.
Fix: detach and blow out the drain lines with compressed air.
Test: set a sprinkler on top of your car and run it for awhile.
I definitely miss how BMW stuck to fewer sizes of fasteners. (everything was always 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm) There are fasteners of all sizes so its harder to tell at a glance what your dealing with (10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 all needed for interior work)
Dan
-
I also had a failing headliner so i tackled that job at the same time. very tedious project, but doable. considering the cost to DIY is like $75 compared to 600+ for a shop, it is worth it. apparently volvo used 'environmentally friendly' glues that just dont hold up over time.
I used this ebay vendor for the headliner material. it comes shipped in a roll (important), was a close match to the grey, and was the correct size to do the headliner + sunroof panel. i ended up using two cans of 3M headliner and fabric adhesive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/280980573545?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
this diy was great for the process of gluing on the new fabric:
this is how the old material looked as it was falling apart
to get the headliner board out you have to remove: visors, oh-shit handles, sunroof switch/dome light panel, cargo net clips, rear dome light, rear trim at the tailgate, A pillars, D pillars, front and rear seats, one half of the cargo area carpet/plastic covers/spare tire foam, seat belt retractor. you also have to pull all of the wiring that is glued to the top of the headliner off. its a stupid design, the harness connects somewhere inside the dash so there is no way to unplug it, you have to just leave it hanging.
the panel will barely (not really) squeeze through the rear tailgate. you will be bending the edges pretty harshly to get it in and out.
no pictures of the process of gluing the headliner fabric on, see the youtube DIY above. it turned out 8/10, with a couple of wrinkles and the areas where the handles go are too stretched. but in reality, no one will notice unless i mention it.
the fabric was a good match. I think it was actually nicer stuff than the original. much better texture, better cut resistance, a slight sheen.
probably the worst bit of this job was reattaching all the wires to the top of the headliner. after putting the headliner back in the car, you have to lay the wiring back across in its original position and hot glue it back into place. i used gaffer tape to hold it in place as the glue set. the wiring runs across the front windshield area, and also snakes backwards and across the center of the car to the two rear dome lights. a simple harness plug in the a pillar could have made this 1,000,000 times easier.
headliner back in place. the four cargo net clips have bolts inside so they hold it up best while you attach everything else.
and voila.
Dan
-
Welp, bought a family hauler for the wife to DD and for us to use for roadtrips, hauling, etc.
She was amenable to something 'enthusiast' and a car I am very happy to own - a Toyota 4runner. We needed an SUV that could tow, hold a lot of gear, and be reliable. I love their simplicity, capability and aftermarket parts availability. They have approx. the same amount of technology as a 90s e34. The only two nits I have with this model are the electronically controlled drivetrain selection and the rust-prone frames.
I got lucky that it ended up being white. After months of searching, I found this rust free example in Tennessee - flew down from MKE at 6am on a Saturday and was home by 10pm same day.
Here she is in the beautiful mountains of TN on the day I drove her home. its a 2007 Limited, white with gray interior. Super clean, daily driven by an old lady, garaged, Toyota parts used for maintenance, blah blah.
I got right to work with a few upgrades before letting it hit the road. I did a tune up including oil change, air filter, spark plugs and boots. I plan to change all fluids (both diffs, transfer case, transmission) in the spring, I'm out of time now.
look at that frame. i was stunned how clean it was. similar age/mileage Wisconsin cars I looked at had fist sized holes in the frame.
I removed the pinstripes then gave the paint a full detail with clay bar, polish then wax.
Of course, the truck got a bixenon retrofit, which I kept from the e30. TRS Mini-D2S 4.0 with 50w ballasts and custom foreground limiters.
I also smoked the headlights while they were open, and restored the lenses.
GROM Bluetooth adapter with aux-in and charge port (bottom black box with white plug)
I ran the aux-in and usb charger to the dashboard below the RAM mount which I installed based on Dave's recommendation. It works great at holding a big heavy phone.
I cleaned out the POs filth in the console. Lady must have ate fries everyday - greasy crumbs in every nook and cranny. bleh!
I found some used 5th gen 4runner TRD Offroad wheels, plastidipped them black and added General Grabber snow tires for the winter.
I added a 1.5" lift kit to the front of the 4runner. They come from the factory with quite a bit of rake, and it levels it out. It is simply a 3/4" spacer than goes on top of the front strut, and due to the geometry it nets a 1.5" lift.
and the most important bit of work i did was to try and prevent future rust for future me. PB blaster has recently come out with a new rust-protectant coating that has an optimistic 2-year life. most of the products (Fluid Film, motor oil, etc) have a 1 year recoat time. There's a guy on Youtube who tests all of the undercoating products and he says it is now the king of the castle. Its also only $10/can and I used 5 total for coating everything.
I jacked the car up, removed the skid plate and spare tire and sprayed every nook and cranny on the underside.
I also I removed the front bumper and sprayed all the steel inside
i also removed all 4 wheels and sprayed all the suspension and frame inside the wheels.
On the exterior i also painted the lower front valance black, added a Yakima roof rack, debadged the doors and in the future will black-out the rear badges.
Here's the final product!
with any luck ill be back here with some stuff within the next year or so
Dan
-
I love 4Runners and that white is amazing! I don't know how many number of 4Runners I've worked on over the years and I have NEVER seen a frame like that. That's amazing!
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login