Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Gooder picture with the new headlights.
Ran great. Took it to Tom’s on Monday to align it in his garage and it turned out really good.
Today’s thing was I realized the aux fan wasn’t kicking on at all. I also turned on the ac (it’s not charged yet) just to see if the fan would come on as it should. While diagnosing that tonight I realized I wired in the temp sensor plug into the cars harness wrong. Basically flipped the low and high fan settings.
Once that was corrected, I could jump the plug and get high to work but not low. Started at the fuse box and traced it down to the fans wire harness. I have 12v at the body harness for the fan. But from the connector to the resistor it drops to .3 volts. Yes. Point three. The ohm readings was scattered all over but never got close to 0.
Once again, a used part bites me in the ass. Now to source a new fan. I am ordering an ac manifold and vacuum pump so I can try charging it myself.
Was the cut off I sold you causing problems?
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Was the cut off I sold you causing problems?
Not at all! The color of the wires are different and I wasn’t paying close enough attention and swapped the low and high signal wires.
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So you determined that the low speed resistor on the fan was bad? I think I removed a failed resistor on an e30 once and just connected the wires. Then when the temp sensor calls for low or high speed it will just run high speed. Costs nothing and the fan runs on high speed right away.
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So you determined that the low speed resistor on the fan was bad? I think I removed a failed resistor on an e30 once and just connected the wires. Then when the temp sensor calls for low or high speed it will just run high speed. Costs nothing and the fan runs on high speed right away.
I have read that as an alternative. Bypass the resistor and replace the 15a fuse in the fuse box with a 30a fuse. For me, I couldn't determine if the resistor was good because the resistor wasn't getting any power. I followed these steps:
If low speed does not come on:
With the aux fan low temp (green/black to black) switch jumped, check for voltage on both sides of fuse 3. If you have no voltage, the K1 relay is suspect. If there is any appreciable difference across the fuse, replace the fuse. Check for voltage at aux fan resistor on the black wire. Voltage dropped from 12v at the connector to less than 1 volt at the resistor. If you have no voltage, there is a wiring fault. If you have voltage, check for voltage on the aux fan red wire. It should be less than 12V. If you have voltage, the fan or ground is suspect. -
Not at all! The color of the wires are different and I wasn’t paying close enough attention and swapped the low and high signal wires.
Alright, Was just checking. I dont like selling bad parts. If there was an issue caused by me. I would have refunded you
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To make the R134A AC update, did you need to do anything additionally? I have not tried my A/C, but will be on the old stuff. Would be nice to have if I ever needed it.
Are you no longer running the clutch fan? Can you turn the fan on without having the A/C on?
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To make the R134A AC update, did you need to do anything additionally? I have not tried my A/C, but will be on the old stuff. Would be nice to have if I ever needed it.
Are you no longer running the clutch fan? Can you turn the fan on without having the A/C on?
You need to at least do a valve on the evaporator, new drier and pressure switch. I also did new evaporator and condenser and now a new fan.
I still have the clutch fan. The auxiliary fan comes on automatically with the AC on and mine wasn’t, that’s why I replaced it.
The tools worked as they should but I have a leak somewhere that all the Freon drained out. When I put in the first can I was hearing a hissing sound coming from the vents behind the hood. I thought it was the Freon filling the evaporator but now I believe it was a leak. The pag oil I put in has the uv dye in it but since the pressure never got high enough for the compressor to kick in, I’m not sure if the oil was cycled through all the lines to help me find a leak. I do have leak detector spray for gas lines in your house, so I may sacrifice a can of r134 to find the leak.
I read it’s not super uncommon for a leak to be sealed when the system is under vacuum and appear when it’s under pressure.
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I’m struggling to identify where this is on the car.
Also, what’s the process for doing this?
Assuming that’s under the dash?
also, UV dye
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Assuming that’s under the dash?
also, UV dye
I don’t know why I thought this was a fuel leak. That would make sense.
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I’m struggling to identify where this is on the car.
Also, what’s the process for doing this?
Assuming that’s under the dash?
also, UV dye
Correct. Under the dash. It’s the hi line from inside the car that was leaking a bit and then the low side at the fitting between the evaporator and the expansion valve.
It was a $10 UV flashlight from Walmart. Decided to grab that at the last minute but it was very worth it. Excited to say the car now has cold AC. It’s actually a little better than my XC70. That probably needs a charge - which I can now do.
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How’s the new rack been working?
Much better. Had a huge air bubble reveal itself on my way home last week several days after installing the rack. Thought I felt the PS getting weak and when I got home the reservoir was empty. But zero leaks. Topped it off and it's been all good since then.
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The car has been running great for the most part. One nagging thing has been about once every other week I’d get home with an empty PS reservoir. I always thought maybe there’s a large bubble in the system since I completely drained it.
Confirmed today that’s not the case.
Pried one of the boots away from the steering rack and it was so full of fluid that it squirted out. It was under pressure.
Both seals are clearly blown out. Really disappointed with Rack Doctor. Will give them a call tomorrow but I can’t put on of their racks back in my car. I don’t trust them anymore. Will go with OE rebuilt unit from FCP.
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The car has been running great for the most part. One nagging thing has been about once every other week I’d get home with an empty PS reservoir. I always thought maybe there’s a large bubble in the system since I completely drained it.
Confirmed today that’s not the case.
Pried one of the boots away from the steering rack and it was so full of fluid that it squirted out. It was under pressure.
Both seals are clearly blown out. Really disappointed with Rack Doctor. Will give them a call tomorrow but I can’t put on of their racks back in my car. I don’t trust them anymore. Will go with OE rebuilt unit from FCP.
Ive heard really good things about rack doctor. Id give them a second chance.
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