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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #403

    Love comparing the size of older cars to newer ones. 

    1FD299FC-C833-4F6B-82EA-A69349118EC9.jpeg

    Also started cleaning up the head from the next engine. I should have taken some before pics because it was very gross. 

    7A85DFC3-1427-4768-9AA1-133D0D16B2ED.jpeg

    2EFC73B6-5D5C-4EEA-A591-3315F39329AF.jpeg

    4606E8BE-490D-439E-B9CB-219AD4B935F7.jpeg

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #404

      I am probably going to take this block in to get honed, but in order to do so I need to remove these things. I believe one drives the oil pump and the other is the oil pressure sending unit. I know the gear for the oil pump can not just be remover and reinstalled, but can this little piece pop out? And how do I remove the oil pressure unit? 

      87DB25B1-13B3-4441-9A86-6A1D621D7855.jpeg

      BE1D5713-2059-47F3-AF57-A2C1B7607E85.jpeg

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #405

        That aluminum bit is an oil pressure relief valve. You can remove it, no problem, with a 22 or 24 mm wrench or whatever it is. Theres just a loose spring on the other side.

        the oil pump drive shaft can be removed via the recessed cap with the bmw logo on it. Make sure you do not forget to put that part in! Ive read a couple threads of people anxiously firing up the engine and quickly realizing they forgot a part. You should also use a drill and a 6/8mm socket on the other end of the shaft (the end under the bmw cap) to prime the oil pump and preoil the engine before startup

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #406

          Do NOT remove the intermediate shaft bearings unless there is something wrong with them.  Replacement is not an easy task.  They need to be honed to size after installation.

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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          0
          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #407

            jc43089 said:

            Do NOT remove the intermediate shaft bearings unless there is something wrong with them.  Replacement is not an easy task.  They need to be honed to size after installation.

            I'm not removing that. I just need to know if it's okay to remove this rod without doing anything crazy to reinstall it.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #408

              gilber33 said:

              I'm not removing that. I just need to know if it's okay to remove this rod without doing anything crazy to reinstall it. 

              It should just pull out.  But it's been a while since I built an M20.  

              You can take the intermediate shaft out for cleaning and stuff just the bearings should stay in place.

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #409

                Cars and Coffee in Cedarburg. Fit both car seats in the back seat! They fit much better than I thought they would.

                1B91B202-3806-4304-9D78-2E48362E2A2E.jpeg

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • JdesignJ
                  JdesignJ
                  Jdesign
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #410

                  Looks great!

                  SumBunny.jpg

                  https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                  🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                  👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                  ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                  🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #411

                    Jdesign said:

                    Looks great!

                    Thank you! 

                    Started assembling the head last night. Got a bunch of dremel buffing pads which made cleaning the valves and head pretty easy work. Dusty and dirty. But easy. 

                    21E71707-A335-4D43-8F91-F6CCAD5D538C.jpeg

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • G
                      G
                      gilber33
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #412

                      Looking for some insight here. Pulled the pistons out last night. My plan was have the block honed and then do new rings and bearings. There's some light scratches on the side skirts - you can't feel them. There's also no vertical scratches on the cylinder walls and the cross hatching is still very visible. 

                      I've read to take an emery clutch or scotch Brite pad or something to clean up the pistons. Think I'm okay to move forward with my plan? 

                      36A2CC71-FFE9-48CF-BF53-BB42B88AAD1D.jpeg

                      9D88DA04-E360-43B2-9614-5B644AE14972.jpeg

                      8F05FFBE-1B81-4D1F-B9E5-B41DCCB835A8.jpeg

                      C2CBC801-F56B-4253-9B9C-9263EF1A427F.jpeg

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                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        B C
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #413

                        The one side of the piston is a bit more scuffing that I have usually seen on an M20. When I asked the machinist/engine builder about it he said it is no concern/as long as the cylinder bores are clean.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #414

                          B C said:

                          The one side of the piston is a bit more scuffing that I have usually seen on an M20. When I asked the machinist/engine builder about it he said it is no concern/as long as the cylinder bores are clean. 

                          That's kind of what I've read too. The cylinders are all clean and there are no visible vertical scratches in them. The cylinder I took pictures of is the cylinder that 2nd piston came out of.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • jc43089J
                            jc43089J
                            jc43089
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #415

                            Just polish them up and use new rings.  Check the ring gaps.  The cylinders look nice.  Any lip at the top where the rings don't touch?

                            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #416

                              jc43089 said:

                              Just polish them up and use new rings.  Check the ring gaps.  The cylinders look nice.  Any lip at the top where the rings don't touch?

                              Zero lip on the cylinders. They're in really good shape, which is why I just wanted to hone, new rings and bearings and put it back together. 

                              I've never done a full rebuild on an engine before, so there's really no reason for this other than its something I've wanted to do. And the m20 is so affordable to rebuild.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • jc43089J
                                jc43089J
                                jc43089
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #417

                                gilber33 said:

                                Zero lip on the cylinders. They're in really good shape, which is why I just wanted to hone, new rings and bearings and put it back together. 

                                I've never done a full rebuild on an engine before, so there's really no reason for this other than its something I've wanted to do. And the m20 is so affordable to rebuild. 

                                The cast iron used is very high quality.  The one I rebuilt that had unknown miles higher than 280k before the odometer quit working still had no lip at all and just needed a light honing and new rings.

                                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #418

                                  Crank out. Block mating surface cleaned up. And valves are all lapped. 

                                  Next I’ll pull the block out into the driveway and pressure wash and then drop it off to get honed. Finish assembling the head. 

                                  I think I’d like to get this back together before December so it can go into the car between the end of year and next June. Some big life events that will make car time limited.  

                                  9F0C10AB-AB4C-4E59-AF4C-7E2C9517AC17.jpeg

                                  9BA584DC-F3A8-4DB9-8024-E12B7210A8E7.jpeg

                                  9979B7C9-D853-4B2E-BD43-722E46DF73A1.jpeg

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #419

                                    Took a pressure washer to the block tonight. 

                                    AA483C8C-13D6-4E1A-A1DA-5D746A19B039.jpeg

                                    678BF106-89CE-431E-97AE-3F495D540A05.jpeg

                                    C88E361B-A6C8-4C7C-A53B-BD4B9C175CAA.jpeg

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                                    2
                                    • G
                                      G
                                      gilber33
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #420

                                      My clunky drivetrain is getting a little clunkier. 

                                      Gonna jack it up and check the mounts and make sure nothing’s loose. If there’s nothing obvious then looks like I’ll be tackling guibo, CSB, and diff bushing. 

                                      Edit - checked the engine mounts, transmission mounts, guibo bolts... all tight. So, I’m not sure. It has gotten progressively worse. It used to be a single clunk where now it several. Happens when I’m rolling slow and push the clutch pedal in. Really sounds like it’s coming from the transmission/clutch.

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                                      0
                                      • JdesignJ
                                        JdesignJ
                                        Jdesign
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #421

                                        Axles? CSB is backwards? Diff is loose? My diff was backing the bolts out all the time and then I realized the CSB was backwards. 🤔

                                        SumBunny.jpg

                                        https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                                        🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                                        👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                                        ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                                        🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #422

                                          Jdesign said:

                                          Axles? CSB is backwards? Diff is loose? My diff was backing the bolts out all the time and then I realized the CSB was backwards. 🤔

                                          Sounds like it’s coming from the front, I’m going to assume it’s not axles.

                                          It happens when I push clutch in while rolling slowly, so the only “jerky” movements happening to the car is the clutch. It’s not like I’m engaging the clutch and the car jerks where there could be noises generated from play in axles or something. 

                                          If that makes sense. That’s why I think it’s something with the clutch. Flywheel coming loose or something.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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