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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • GunMetalGreyG
    GunMetalGreyG
    GunMetalGrey
    wrote on last edited by
    #390

    A clunk like your describing has typically been worn U-joints in the driveshaft (for me).
    Easy to check if it's in the air.

    ...

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    • G
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      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #391

      Are those easy to replace?

      Also, got a mechanics stethoscope at lunch and listened around. There was not an injector that was louder than the other, they were all the same. So I think I'll rule that out. The sound was almost non-existent in the block, so I'm going to hope a couple valves are out of adjustment.

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #392

        BMW u-joints are non-servicable. In the event that there is a non-OE driveshaft in there, there may be grease fittings (probably too late even if thats the case).

        For a reman driveshaft, I have had great luck with these guys and they still seem to be the cheapest around

        https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/.

        While the valve cover is off, just check to make sure the rocker arm retainers are all seated securely. if any seem a bit loose you can remove them and bend them a bit for a better fit. 

        What oil are you using?

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #393

          B C said:

          BMW u-joints are non-servicable. In the event that there is a non-OE driveshaft in there, there may be grease fittings (probably too late even if thats the case).

          For a reman driveshaft, I have had great luck with these guys and they still seem to be the cheapest around

          https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/.

          While the valve cover is off, just check to make sure the rocker arm retainers are all seated securely. if any seem a bit loose you can remove them and bend them a bit for a better fit. 

          What oil are you using?

          I popped the valve cover off at lunch. Visually nothing looked out of order. I went through and checked all the eccentric nuts and I did find two nuts that weren't extremely loose, but I got probably a quarter turn out of. I'll go through and check clearances tonight. 

          I'm using what the book says - Castrol GTX 20w50

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            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #394

            GunMetalGrey said:

            A clunk like your describing has typically been worn U-joints in the driveshaft (for me).
            Easy to check if it's in the air. 

            How do I check this? 

            Also, found a rocker that was way out of adjustment. Will fix that and hope that cures my problem. And then move on to driveline.

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            • YoungCRY
              YoungCRY
              YoungCR
              wrote on last edited by
              #395

              gilber33 said:

              How do I check this? 

              Also, found a rocker that was way out of adjustment. Will fix that and hope that cures my problem. And then move on to driveline. 

              With the driveshaft removed you just physically move the yoke in both directions on each axis. As long as it moves freely the U-joints are fine. The Center Support Bearing (CSB) will cause drive line vibrations before the u-joints. The csb can be checked without removal. As long as there isn't any cracks in the rubber bushing around the bearing and no significant play its good.

              Chris Young
              BMWCCA #458972
              1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #396

                YoungCR said:

                With the driveshaft removed you just physically move the yoke in both directions on each axis. As long as it moves freely the U-joints are fine. The Center Support Bearing (CSB) will cause drive line vibrations before the u-joints. The csb can be checked without removal. As long as there isn't any cracks in the rubber bushing around the bearing and no significant play its good. 

                I don't necessarily have vibrations, it's a clunk after shifting and engaging the next the gear. Unless I shift delicately then there is no clunk. 

                Picture of it sitting in the garage. Did a short drive today and it was good. Minus the shift clunk. 

                BAEAABBF-BBF7-4A1E-8917-987F421C6489.jpeg

                6EBB39EC-AC4B-435E-84C1-5F2133701D3E.jpeg

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                • B
                  B
                  B C
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #397

                  Noisy lifter all better?

                  I always wanted to try some shockproof gear oil in the trans and diff to see how it helps cushion the lash noise

                  in the E46 world, that drivetrain noise is referred to as the “M Clunk”. The LSDs really can be that noisy

                  https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166867

                  https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/bmw-m/173049-e46-m3-driveline-clunk-what.html

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                  • B
                    B
                    Boris3
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #398

                    I forget you did replace subframe bushings?

                    1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                      G
                      gilber33
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #399

                      B C said:

                      Noisy lifter all better?

                      Yup. Found one that was probably all the way out of adjustment. 

                      Boris3 said:

                      I forget you did replace subframe bushings? 

                      I have not touched the driveline at all - including rear subframe bushings. I'm treating everything in this car as if it's never been replaced.

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                      • B
                        B
                        Boris3
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #400

                        Reason I asked is that if these are shot it can also cause the clunk.

                        Differential bolts to the subframe are all tight?

                        1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #401

                          B C said:

                          in the E46 world, that drivetrain noise is referred to as the “M Clunk”. The LSDs really can be that noisy

                          Or when the subframe is tearing the floor out of the car 😶

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                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #402

                            Boris3 said:

                            Reason I asked is that if these are shot it can also cause the clunk.

                            Differential bolts to the subframe are all tight? 

                            They should be. My hope is to pull the driveline out and do new guibo, CSB, diff mount bushing, and rear subframe bushings. 

                            SteelBlue said:

                            Or when the subframe is tearing the floor out of the car 😶

                            Ew

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #403

                              Love comparing the size of older cars to newer ones. 

                              1FD299FC-C833-4F6B-82EA-A69349118EC9.jpeg

                              Also started cleaning up the head from the next engine. I should have taken some before pics because it was very gross. 

                              7A85DFC3-1427-4768-9AA1-133D0D16B2ED.jpeg

                              2EFC73B6-5D5C-4EEA-A591-3315F39329AF.jpeg

                              4606E8BE-490D-439E-B9CB-219AD4B935F7.jpeg

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                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #404

                                I am probably going to take this block in to get honed, but in order to do so I need to remove these things. I believe one drives the oil pump and the other is the oil pressure sending unit. I know the gear for the oil pump can not just be remover and reinstalled, but can this little piece pop out? And how do I remove the oil pressure unit? 

                                87DB25B1-13B3-4441-9A86-6A1D621D7855.jpeg

                                BE1D5713-2059-47F3-AF57-A2C1B7607E85.jpeg

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                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #405

                                  That aluminum bit is an oil pressure relief valve. You can remove it, no problem, with a 22 or 24 mm wrench or whatever it is. Theres just a loose spring on the other side.

                                  the oil pump drive shaft can be removed via the recessed cap with the bmw logo on it. Make sure you do not forget to put that part in! Ive read a couple threads of people anxiously firing up the engine and quickly realizing they forgot a part. You should also use a drill and a 6/8mm socket on the other end of the shaft (the end under the bmw cap) to prime the oil pump and preoil the engine before startup

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                                  • jc43089J
                                    jc43089J
                                    jc43089
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #406

                                    Do NOT remove the intermediate shaft bearings unless there is something wrong with them.  Replacement is not an easy task.  They need to be honed to size after installation.

                                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                    • G
                                      G
                                      gilber33
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #407

                                      jc43089 said:

                                      Do NOT remove the intermediate shaft bearings unless there is something wrong with them.  Replacement is not an easy task.  They need to be honed to size after installation.

                                      I'm not removing that. I just need to know if it's okay to remove this rod without doing anything crazy to reinstall it.

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                                      • jc43089J
                                        jc43089J
                                        jc43089
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #408

                                        gilber33 said:

                                        I'm not removing that. I just need to know if it's okay to remove this rod without doing anything crazy to reinstall it. 

                                        It should just pull out.  But it's been a while since I built an M20.  

                                        You can take the intermediate shaft out for cleaning and stuff just the bearings should stay in place.

                                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #409

                                          Cars and Coffee in Cedarburg. Fit both car seats in the back seat! They fit much better than I thought they would.

                                          1B91B202-3806-4304-9D78-2E48362E2A2E.jpeg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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