Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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That M20 swap in that volvo looks mighty clean.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Drove it to work with no issue! With the trunk hole patched and the HD rubber bushings in place of the solid bushings it was a very enjoyable drive. Once I got to work the flywheel chatter with the lightweight flywheel is definitely noticeable when your outside the car. Goes away when the clutch pedal is pressed.
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the car looks amazing, i'm jealous you've got it on the road!
Dan
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the car looks amazing, i'm jealous you've got it on the road!
Thank you! It's on the road, but I didn't really do that much to it compared to most projects here.
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if you don't drive this in cold weather much, you can opt to thicken the gear oil a bit to reduce the sound.
Dan
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Looks fantastic!! Are you planning to bring it to the E30 picnic in June?
Thank you! And I forgot that was happening. I think I'm going to try to bring it.
great job dude!
The gear rattle is somewhat of a fact of life.
Thanks!
if you don't drive this in cold weather much, you can opt to thicken the gear oil a bit to reduce the sound.
Today is probably as cool of weather I'll be driving it in. Definitely will not be driven during winters. That is a very interesting read, thank you for sharing that.
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I have a UUC flywheel which is very light at 8.5 lbs and I use the mix of Redline fluids that they recommend. There is still a little rattle but not much. It is good advice.
That's good to hear. I will definitely try that.
Car is back home. Drive home was just as magnificent. Car is so much smoother without the should mounts. I cam actually hear the exhaust and m20 now. I couldn't hear anything but vibrations with the solid mounts.
And with the combination of the chip, lightweight flywheel, and new tires it is so enjoyable. I was smiling the whole way home.
I put on new auxiliary belts and one of them is squealing a bit. Need to try tightening it but the brackets were just about stripped.
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Well, all has been going well until my drive this morning developed a pretty loud tick. As suggested I'm hoping it's just a rocker that came out of adjustment. I still have the spare block in case it's not that.
I also need to replace the driveline mounts - CSB, diff mount, and guibo. I'm getting a pretty significant knock when shifting. I can feel it coming from the back under the car.
Sooooo, back up on jackstands for a bit! Hoping the engine can stay in. I'm also considering putting the stock flywheel back in. I'm not sure I noticed a significant enough difference when driving the car to warrant the awful starting sound and gear rattle to keep the RHD flywheel in.
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Clutch-type LSDs, in my experience, will always be a little noisy and clunky. Older diffs can have some excessive backlash in the gearing , but even a healthy new/rebuilt clutch type LSD is going to be a little clunky as the pin moves back and forth between the opening in the carrier halves.
Loose u-joints can sometimes cause it.
slop in the CV axles is most certainly a thing.
A bad center support bearing will most definitely clunk as well.
There is also quite a lot of backlash in the transmission too.
I was able to get my E30 drivetrain to an acceptable level of driveline clunkiness to where as long as I was driving smooth there was no noise. Pausing a fraction of a second longer than normal to let the engine slow down to match the speed of the next gear also helps.
The CSB was the last link in my search for a quiet driveline though.
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For the ticking: rocker arm coming out of adjustment or perhaps a manifold leak. I have had a rocker lose adjustment before. An injector could also be extra noisy so dont rule that out.
I find that running Lucas Fuel Additive really quiets the M20 down a bit and im not sure how or why but It seems to be a product that actually helps.
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Clutch-type LSDs, in my experience, will always be a little noisy and clunky. Older diffs can have some excessive backlash in the gearing , but even a healthy new/rebuilt clutch type LSD is going to be a little clunky as the pin moves back and forth between the opening in the carrier halves.
Loose u-joints can sometimes cause it.
slop in the CV axles is most certainly a thing.
A bad center support bearing will most definitely clunk as well.
There is also quite a lot of backlash in the transmission too.
I was able to get my E30 drivetrain to an acceptable level of driveline clunkiness to where as long as I was driving smooth there was no noise. Pausing a fraction of a second longer than normal to let the engine slow down to match the speed of the next gear also helps.
The CSB was the last link in my search for a quiet driveline though.
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For the ticking: rocker arm coming out of adjustment or perhaps a manifold leak. I have had a rocker lose adjustment before. An injector could also be extra noisy so dont rule that out.
I find that running Lucas Fuel Additive really quiets the M20 down a bit and im not sure how or why but It seems to be a product that actually helps.
The clunking has gotten worse so I don't believe it is just natural play in the system.
I will check the rockers tonight. I have a video but I cannot get it to load on here. I can definitely check to see if it has an exhaust leak, but this sounds internal to the engine.
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A clunk like your describing has typically been worn U-joints in the driveshaft (for me).
Easy to check if it's in the air. -
Are those easy to replace?
Also, got a mechanics stethoscope at lunch and listened around. There was not an injector that was louder than the other, they were all the same. So I think I'll rule that out. The sound was almost non-existent in the block, so I'm going to hope a couple valves are out of adjustment.
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BMW u-joints are non-servicable. In the event that there is a non-OE driveshaft in there, there may be grease fittings (probably too late even if thats the case).
For a reman driveshaft, I have had great luck with these guys and they still seem to be the cheapest around
https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/.
While the valve cover is off, just check to make sure the rocker arm retainers are all seated securely. if any seem a bit loose you can remove them and bend them a bit for a better fit.
What oil are you using?
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BMW u-joints are non-servicable. In the event that there is a non-OE driveshaft in there, there may be grease fittings (probably too late even if thats the case).
For a reman driveshaft, I have had great luck with these guys and they still seem to be the cheapest around
https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/.
While the valve cover is off, just check to make sure the rocker arm retainers are all seated securely. if any seem a bit loose you can remove them and bend them a bit for a better fit.
What oil are you using?
I popped the valve cover off at lunch. Visually nothing looked out of order. I went through and checked all the eccentric nuts and I did find two nuts that weren't extremely loose, but I got probably a quarter turn out of. I'll go through and check clearances tonight.
I'm using what the book says - Castrol GTX 20w50
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