Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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The rattle is worn transmission input shaft bearings. (if it only happens in neutral with the clutch engaged and disappears when the clutch is disengaged).
A lightweight/single mass flywheel will make the noise worse. Don't worry about it - the Getrag will chug along 300,000+ miles that way. You could fix it, but that involves rebuilding the trans or finding one that doesnt already rattle.
A previous m20 e30 that I owned started the Getrag rattle with about 170k miles on it. I sold the car with 250k miles on it and it was still fine/hadnt gotten noticeably worse.
I will be leaving it for now. If somehow it affects drivability, then I'll look at it, but the car shifts great and there are no signs that there's something terribly wrong.
But, one thing has crept up that I've noticed. Everyone once in a while when I'm driving, it is usually just cruising along, the car seems to cut out for half a second and jolts. It feels almost as if the throttle body snapped shut and then opened back up. Then the car keeps going as if nothing happened. The cluster doesn't change, the needles don't zero out, no lights come on. I've read that the main relay and ECU can eventually start going bad and cause little blips like this. I would assume if the main relay was bad, there would be a loss of electrical power, not just "mechanical" power.
Maybe the TPS is glitching and on its way out?
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The tach doesn't drop momentarily when it does that? I had a failing crank position sensor causing a momentary blip like that, but it drives the tach too so it made it easy to figure out. All other gauges acted normal.
The tach wasn't affected at all. I just got it aligned and on my drive back it happened a couple times and I noticed the tach didn't move, but the MPG gauge spiked to getting really good mileage. That makes me think it was running lean for a split second. So maybe it is the TPS?
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I'm late to the party here but that interior is gorgeous!
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I'm late to the party here but that interior is gorgeous!
Thank you!
Still have a small hiccup when driving every once in a while. Next I'm going to try the ignition coil and then fuel pump.
Went for a drive during lunch and found this little road to grab a couple pics.
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Glad you're okay, but that still sucks.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Glad you're okay, but that still sucks.
it does. The worst part is I was at the roundabout to go home, and I thought, one more loop, then I thought, I haven't seen any deer and we should probably call it quits, ehhhh we'll be fine! Then bam.
Hood will be easy to bend back and I'm ordering some touch up paint. The fender will most likely need to be replaced. But once it's off, I might see if I can bend it back in place to look respectable.
Fortunately, the car has a fair amount of blemishes and is by no means perfect, so a couple other little oopsies won't stand out.
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Drivers are so nice.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
glad you and the car are OK! did you have police do a composite sketch so we can find that buckhead?
Dan
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I jumped out of the car, tracked him down, and had a stern word with him. He said he was sorry and wouldn't do it again.
After driving it briefly this fall. The next plans are to ditch the poly engine and trans mounts and replace them with e21 engine mounts and stock transmission mounts (I have some new ones that I didn't put in). The Condor solid engine mounts and poly transmission mounts are too much.
Also add a provent oil separator to the factory breather system. Found some oil in the throttle body.
And of course, fix deer stuff.
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...one thing has crept up that I've noticed. Everyone once in a while when I'm driving, it is usually just cruising along, the car seems to cut out for half a second and jolts. It feels almost as if the throttle body snapped shut and then opened back up. Then the car keeps going as if nothing happened. The cluster doesn't change, the needles don't zero out, no lights come on. I've read that the main relay and ECU can eventually start going bad and cause little blips like this. I would assume if the main relay was bad, there would be a loss of electrical power, not just "mechanical" power.
My e34 had similar symptoms. Eventually started getting worse. Finally stopped working long enough for me to do some troubleshooting (a nice way of saying it died and left me on the side of the road...). After trying a couple other things with no success, I jumpered the fuel pump relay and it fired right up.
After that, I changed out both the fuel pump and main relay, but it still kept happening. I never actually fixed it, but the problem was assumed to be the ECU at that point. I just wired in a switch to bypass the fuel pump relay because the car was a POS and it was funny. I daily drove it for months after that and never had any problems.
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Check your ECU number and let me know, I've got a spare ECU for an M20 laying about as well.
^HipMF did some amusing fixes for that issue and it was interesting to see the failure.
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Does the cutout happen when you hit small bumps/road imperfections? If so maybe something is a little loose and gets jostled. If you haven't done so already make sure your battery connections are tight, also the connections to the power block under the hood. Are the three relays new and do they fit tightly in the carrier (main, fuel, 02), track folks often ziptie them down into the carrier to keep them from moving. Could be the electrical disruption is so slight that it doesn't show up in the cluster or by the time you look it's already passed.
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Check your ECU number and let me know, I've got a spare ECU for an M20 laying about as well.
^HipMF did some amusing fixes for that issue and it was interesting to see the failure.
Will do! I've read that as a possible cause. I'll message you that info and maybe if it's the same, we can group it with the carpets.
Does the cutout happen when you hit small bumps/road imperfections? If so maybe something is a little loose and gets jostled. If you haven't done so already make sure your battery connections are tight, also the connections to the power block under the hood. Are the three relays new and do they fit tightly in the carrier (main, fuel, 02), track folks often ziptie them down into the carrier to keep them from moving. Could be the electrical disruption is so slight that it doesn't show up in the cluster or by the time you look it's already passed.
No, road imperfections make no difference. This has happened wot in 1st gear and it has happened while cruising in 5th on a smooth road. There is zero consistency to it.
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Interesting and frustrating. Your R3v thread mentions PO had the same issue?
Just a random list of a few more things: Plugs and wires tight, no oil in tps plug connector, any issue with air flow meter (try swapping), stomp test or code reader to see if any stored fault codes since you noted cel flashed, fuel related (does fuel level matter, something that is intermittently affecting flow: fuel pump wiring, crap in tank clogging screen, water in tank, fuel pump, etc)
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Interesting and frustrating. Your R3v thread mentions PO had the same issue?
Just a random list of a few more things: Plugs and wires tight, no oil in tps plug connector, any issue with air flow meter (try swapping), stomp test or code reader to see if any stored fault codes since you noted cel flashed, fuel related (does fuel level matter, something that is intermittently affecting flow: fuel pump wiring, crap in tank clogging screen, water in tank, fuel pump, etc)
Yeah, the PO said he experienced it too every once in a while. New plug wire and they are all tight, spark plugs were torqued down to their recommended torque settings. Stomp test was not useful because the ECU doesn't store codes; only active codes. Crank position sensor bracket being out of alignment might explain this. I replaced the crank sensor and it still happened, so if it was a hardware issue, and not sensor issue it would make sense.
It really doesn't feel fuel related, but I may replace the ignition coil and fuel pump this winter just for good measure since they're both original. Unfortunately I parked the car for the winter to address some things, so I'll just be refreshing some of the parts and then come Spring, we'll test it again! lol
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Switching gears here:
To those with e30s who drive theirs pretty frequently with the occasional spirited driving session and maybe some autocross: what engine and transmission mounts do you have?
I currently have the condor solid engine mounts and poly 80a transmission mounts and the vibrations/noise they transmit is too much for what I want the car to be - a comfortable spirited daily driver for the summer with an occasional autocross. I would like to go back to stock engine & transmission mounts but hoping to get some input on that.
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New DME and Fuel Pump relays are never a bad idea. I kept spares with me at all times as a cheap easy thing to keep me going if i ever found myself dead on the roadside. They have been known to cause similar issues. The other item is the injection harness corrosion and crank sensor alignment. I had powdercoated my bracket along with all my other engine parts and that thin film of plastic was enough to cause the car to cut out at 4500rpm. new uncoated bracket fixed it
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