Joined the Club Today

[SteelBlue]

Not E30 content, but super stoked about this.

1984 Yamaha QT50.

[SteelBlue]

E30 update.

Legend bled the system 4 different ways add found that it did not fix the situation. I had bought a brake master cylinder off R3V thinking that might also be making a difference, but it did not. At least just checking another thing off the list. They bought a new slave cylinder, making it the third in the car. Did not solve the issue, but it hasn't ejected into the bell housing. They were able to pull the one that was in there out with a magnet, no pulling the bell housing...yet.

They found that the pedal box, the thing that all the pedals mount to under the dash, had a crack in it. They welded it back together. Did not fix the issue.

I'm being told that the clutch pedal does begin to disengage the clutch pedal until it is halfway down, the top of the pedal stroke is dead. Once it gets to the floor, it still needs to go further to fully disengage the clutch. They assumption is that the wrong clutch master cylinder was installed. And that might be correct, this is the one I purchased. I just realized the URL says E36 in it. It looks like this is the E30 one, link. I'm guessing I was probably looking through the E36 RealOEM catalog opposed to the E30 one. E36 drivetrain in E30 chassis means back and forth between the two a lot.

They are finishing fabbing the exhaust right now. If the issue for this whole scenario was that I just had the wrong clutch master cylinder, I would be ecstatic. Would a clutch master for an E36 opposed to an E30 make that much a difference?

I do still need a second O2 sensor. Also probably some issues that will arise, but I just want it to drive.

[straight6pwr]

SteelBlue said:

They are finishing fabbing the exhaust right now. If the issue for this whole scenario was that I just had the wrong clutch master cylinder, I would be ecstatic. Would a clutch master for an E36 opposed to an E30 make that much a difference?

well sure, if the stroke length is shorter or the cylinder volume is less, you arent moving enough fluid.

[Jdesign]

This^\

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

well sure, if the stroke length is shorter or the cylinder volume is less, you arent moving enough fluid. 

I can't remeber where I read it and am trying to confirm, but the E36 and E30 masters might be the same internally. But the slaves for an E36 M3 for a Zf and a 325/328 are different, non M have a smaller diameter that should push more fluid theoretically.

[straight6pwr]

another random thought - have you replaced the soft line in the system? maybe it is old and expanding too much?

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

another random thought - have you replaced the soft line in the system? maybe it is old and expanding too much?

It has been replaced with a condor SS braided line. I think I'm gonna have Legend just replace the master cylinder with the one. It's the one that is listed on RealOEM that supersedes the previous part numbers.

[straight6pwr]

tried some keyboard engineering. looks like the cylinder size of the e30 could possibly be longer? the fluid input location is closer to the pedal on the e30, if the online photos of the two part numbers are accurate.

although the 'throw' on a clutch pedal is fairly long, the engagement range between on/off is rather small, so i suppose I could see this making a difference.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

tried some keyboard engineering. looks like the cylinder size of the e30 could possibly be longer? the fluid input location is closer to the pedal on the e30, if the online photos of the two part numbers are accurate.

although the 'throw' on a clutch pedal is fairly long, the engagement range between on/off is rather small, so i suppose I could see this making a difference.

Good to know. Hoping this is the issue and not that the fork isn't attached correctly or the clutch is on backwards or something that would require the trans to come off.

[straight6pwr]

SteelBlue said:

Good to know. Hoping this is the issue and not that the fork isn't attached correctly or the clutch is on backwards or something that would require the trans to come off.

i think i'd rather do a clutch job than a clutch master cylinder on an e30.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

i think i'd rather do a clutch job than a clutch master cylinder on an e30.

Have you had to do any clutch work on your E30? Have you removed the bell housing with the motor still in the car or did you pull the motor?

[Jdesign]

Im just here for the part-out thread.

[B C]

I think I’d rather replace the oil cap on an e30 than do a clutch job

[SteelBlue]

Jdesign said:

Im just here for the part-out thread.

It’s coming

[straight6pwr]

SteelBlue said:

Have you had to do any clutch work on your E30? Have you removed the bell housing with the motor still in the car or did you pull the motor?

clutch job on an e30 24v car with the engine still in? many have tried, most have failed.

i've yet to wear out a clutch on an e30, so i've never had to. (250,000 total miles driven)

[Rekpoint]

Jdesign said:

Im just here for the part-out thread.

Dibs on the shell 

[SteelBlue]

Rekpoint said:

Dibs on the shell 

Good to know there are potential suitors out there. I will keep you posted.

[SteelBlue]

Rekpoint said:

Dibs on the shell 

I’ll be messaging you.

If anyone is interested in a refreshed S52, clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, csf radiator, spal fan, etc. let me know. Trans, driveshaft, diff might be accounted for.

But the plan is to get it running first. Clutch works, exhaust is done. Then possibly sell it as a running/driving car.

Obviously I would love to keep both cars, but 1) I don't have the space. I could leave one outside over winter, but would prefer not to do that(I might end up having to leave the calypso if I don't sell it before then) and 2) the money I would get from selling it would be really nice to have. Could pay off the remainder of my student loans/put some money into the red car.