Joined the Club Today
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The boots and double bolt setup were found on Girling calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-5720-tms349099/
And the straight tube with the plastic end cap are from the ATE calipers: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/e/p-3103-caliper-front-left-new-e30-318i-325e-325i-only-for-cars-with-ate-calipers/
Both were OEM though I don't know if there was ever a definite split on when either one was used, I had Girling calipers on my 318is with that accordion style boot.
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If they are torn anywhere, I would assume that over time water and or debris will find its way. On the other hand, those are not oem E30 caliper boots, as they are normally straight with a plastic end cap. Like these:
I ended up buying one kit for the side with the torn boots. These are what the boots looked like on the front calipers.
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My fronts are the Girlings and my rears are the plastic end cap with hex head guide bolts...
In other news, the car is almost ready for the motor. I took the brakes and brackets off front and back, wire wheeled them and painted them black. Installed with new pads and new rotors. Did not take any pictures of this process, will update when I install the front sway bar, just waiting on the new brackets for the bushings because the ones on the car were falling apart.
Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...
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Last bit to do is relocate the brake booster. Idk why, but I'm nervous about this part. But I felt the same about the steering rack, just need to do some more research. Or just shave the intake manifold...
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in. -
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in.This^
Be careful shaving the manifold. I know a lot of people have been able to get away with this, but I also know a close friend of mine had his intake crack from being shaved. The motor moved just enough to bump the master and push into the intake manifold and it cracked from being thin.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
This^
Be careful shaving the manifold. I know a lot of people have been able to get away with this, but I also know a close friend of mine had his intake crack from being shaved. The motor moved just enough to bump the master and push into the intake manifold and it cracked from being thin.
Yeah, I definitely won't be doing that.
Shaving the intake manifold won't be enough to clear the booster unfortunately.
If you don't want to drill things you can source an IX booster or a few others and bolt them in.I hear brake pedal can feel kind of mushy then going with the IX or 944 booster? Also additional modifications that need to be done.
What have other people done that have done 24V swaps here?
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Yeah, I definitely won't be doing that.
I hear brake pedal can feel kind of mushy then going with the IX or 944 booster? Also additional modifications that need to be done.
What have other people done that have done 24V swaps here?
I dunno, I ran the IX booster and did the soft + hard lines and the pedal was rock solid. Felt fantastic.
IX booster was intended for that chassis so I don't know why it would feel soft. -
Maybe a dumb question but do you use the IX booster with it's master cylinder? The smaller booster maybe has smaller master cylinder pistons so that the pedal pressure is similar. Or maybe the smaller booster is a double diaphragm? This could be a reason people have mixed results because some mix and match those parts.
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Maybe a dumb question but do you use the IX booster with it's master cylinder? The smaller booster maybe has smaller master cylinder pistons so that the pedal pressure is similar. Or maybe the smaller booster is a double diaphragm? This could be a reason people have mixed results because some mix and match those parts.
I did this a long time ago, and I don't recall what master I used, I feel like I switched it out from the original one though. Maybe not. I could dig and see if I ever said anything about it.
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I am sucker for vintage racing items. Shirts, jackets, hats, stickers, pins, pretty much anything. Vintage Weekend at Road America is like heaven on earth for a multitude of reasons.
I like stickers. When I came across this vintage 1973, Marlboro, Monaco, F1 sticker...you know I had to do it to em.
Been so focused on the mechanical of this car I have done nothing to the interior or exterior of the car. The paint has been giving me anxiety. As soon as the car runs I will be doing a full cut, compound, and polish on the paint. The roof is so fucked that I think I’m just gonna wrap it black and then just lightly respray the pillars.
@snap pls see top sticker
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Diff is out of the E36 which means I can finally get that hauled away. Anyone got an 5x120 E36 CB wheels they would like to donate so I can roll this out of the storage unit?
this also means I can finally get the motor back to my house and start prepping that to go into the car.
Went to Gibsons today and magically found an E30 with the brake booster already unbolted from the firewall. All I had to do was undo the hardlines and was able to pull it out. Have my other clevis now for the stock booster relocation. Shortly realized after when I went to the storage unit that the M3 has a brake booster, probably could have used that one in hindsight but who knows, that one might not work for the E30.
Got the sway bar and in on the E30. Whoever design the slide in clip and the bolt method is super unchill. Had to channel lock, vice grip, and hammer the new bushings in, but they’re in. Was waiting on the new brackets because the old ones were toast.
Brakes are all tightened up and ready to go. Hopefully the car functions when it starts so I can properly break these in. Probably shouldn’t have put the new pads and rotors on right away and thrown the old ones away. Way she goes.
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Diff is out of the E36 which means I can finally get that hauled away. Anyone got an 5x120 E36 CB wheels they would like to donate so I can roll this out of the storage unit?
lmao we cut the rear control arms remember, don't forget the diff output flanges on the axles.
We could self tap some 2x4's to the rockers and drag it into the parking lot with my Passat
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lmao we cut the rear control arms remember, don't forget the diff output flanges on the axles.
We could self tap some 2x4's to the rockers and drag it into the parking lot with my Passat
That’s honestly what I was thinking, not really sure there is a better way. Once it’s out then a flatbed should be able to pick it up. I’ll have to grab those because I definitely would have forgotten to.
In other news, my parents have joined the team. They picked up this 2011 E90 LCI 328XI last night. One owner and is super clean inside and out. It’s amazing how cheap these cars are for what they are.
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Got the brake booster removed. Those studs and nuts that go through the firewall were horrible to remove. Thankfully @snap told me there was a hole in the brake pedal where you can access the top left nut. Wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted. Gonna clean up the MC and then drill the holes and widen the larger hole hopefully tomorrow or the next day.
Need to arrange someone to pull the E36 out of the storage unit so I can finally bring the motor home.
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Got the brake booster removed. Those studs and nuts that go through the firewall were horrible to remove. Thankfully @snap told me there was a hole in the brake pedal where you can access the top left nut. Wire wheeled, sanded, primed, and painted. Gonna clean up the MC and then drill the holes and widen the larger hole hopefully tomorrow or the next day.
Need to arrange someone to pull the E36 out of the storage unit so I can finally bring the motor home.
Those nuts are fun, you get to contort your body in all kinds of weird ways to see what you're doing!
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Those nuts are fun, you get to contort your body in all kinds of weird ways to see what you're doing!
phrasing!
Dan
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Cleaned up the MC and booster reservoir. Hoping to drill the holes and widen the other tomorrow. Welding the second clevis to the original one is the next task at hand.
Is this bracket for anything other than holding the cruise control module? If it is, I am likely going to cut it off unless this would cause some massive issues I am unaware of.
I did start trying to remove some surface rust while the engine is out and I have easy access. This is by no means a restoration, just removing surface rust, maybe adding some bondo, primer, and some paint matched paint. This is gonna be the time to do it so I figured why not.
For anyone who has cleaned an engine bay, did you use a pressure washer? I am gonna wheel this out into the driveway to clean the bay better. Should I use a pressure washer? I would obviously cover the fuse box and any electrical items with open ends or is this a bad idea? I did a VERY gentle spray down when I initially got the car home to get rid of some of the main grease but as you can see it is still very dirty. My idea was to get into the bay with some degreaser and a brush and go to town on scrubbing it, then use the pressure washer to hose it down. I wouldn't be using the pressure washer to forcefully remove any grime, just to remove the degreaser.
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Hit it with the pressure washer, any loose paint that comes off wouldn't have lasted long anyway? It shouldn't hurt anything unless your pressure washer is crazy powerful or something.
I wasn't planning on directly spraying any electrical components either, so I believe it would be fine.
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