Value in parting out?
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Currently parting one right now. I'm selling stuff cheap and it's going slow. People want parts but I feel like the majority of these people have less than $5 to their name.
Do you think the season has anything to do with it being slow?
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I think you'd be better off listing it for sale as-is. Be honest about the rust, but be clear that it's a good runner. Someone will pay for it (heck, I'd even consider it), and then you don't have to go thru the hassle of parting it out and dealing with tire kickers.
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With the rust, I would almost think that parting it out would net you the most money, IF you don't mind doing all the work. There is a lot of effort in pulling everything, advertising, dealing with tire-kickers/lowballers, etc. I'd be wary of selling it as is if the rust repair wasn't professional and in a structural location, you'd need to make sure you advertise it accurately and when you do sell, have a solid bill of sale that clearly states "as is".
That being said, it's a great looking car and if it were me, I would consider finding a clean coupe and re-shelling it! You can sell all the leftovers and come out even or ahead, and have a clean/rust free car.
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ChrisO, ever considered just looking for a clean shell? If wasnt m3's shell is in good shape maybe pick it up and swap everything over from your car? Solves both your problems.
I would love a slick top 4 door but I remember seeing the shell on craigslist in Chicago and I'm pretty sure it has body rust/ holes in the rockers and footwell areas. (If I'm wrong about that I'm sorry wasntm3)
I mean I would buy the wheels=) Forgot to mention that before haha
17x9 +22 Rays Gram Lights with 15mm Ichiba 5x120-114.3 adapters, definitely a stretch making them fit even with the Hard Motorsports flares. If I part out I'll message you first before I post them up
With the rust, I would almost think that parting it out would net you the most money, IF you don't mind doing all the work. There is a lot of effort in pulling everything, advertising, dealing with tire-kickers/lowballers, etc. I'd be wary of selling it as is if the rust repair wasn't professional and in a structural location, you'd need to make sure you advertise it accurately and when you do sell, have a solid bill of sale that clearly states "as is".
That being said, it's a great looking car and if it were me, I would consider finding a clean coupe and re-shelling it! You can sell all the leftovers and come out even or ahead, and have a clean/rust free car.
I wouldn't consider the repaired rusted out sections like a driving danger, but If I put a jack to it I'm sure it would bend/not be safe. I'd love to find a coupe shell but the timing is just never right. I'm in a tough position being in college where I'd only have the space for 2 cars from July to August, and I also have never seen a rust free coupe shell in Wisconsin with a clean title. My dad sold his truck with a hitch, and I have no trailer also. I think you are right about the part out. I really feel like I'd be ripping people off trying to get $3500-4000 for the car (without the $1300 wheels), and also wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing some kid just put a jack stand on the jack pad I reconstructed with my welds. If I was completely honest saying that this car isn't structurally all safe I doubt anyone would want it for more then $2800
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I wouldn't consider the repaired rusted out sections like a driving danger, but If I put a jack to it I'm sure it would bend/not be safe. I'd love to find a coupe shell but the timing is just never right. I'm in a tough position being in college where I'd only have the space for 2 cars from July to August, and I also have never seen a rust free coupe shell in Wisconsin with a clean title. My dad sold his truck with a hitch, and I have no trailer also. I think you are right about the part out. I really feel like I'd be ripping people off trying to get $3500-4000 for the car (without the $1300 wheels), and also wouldn't be able to sleep at night knowing some kid just put a jack stand on the jack pad I reconstructed with my welds. If I was completely honest saying that this car isn't structurally all safe I doubt anyone would want it for more then $2800
How long till you're out of school? Do you drive it year round?
If you really like the car and it drives well and isn't unsafe to drive, I'd just keep driving it for now especially if you've done a ton of maintenance and upkeep. It may not be a show winner with rust (mine sure isn't), but reliable transportation you know well compared to something new and questionable is worth something while you're in school.
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Use a board to distribute load when jacking it up, just giver until something totally comes apart. My work beater e36 is a rusty pile but it is so much fun to drive and I don't feel bad about winter daily driving it. If you get a nice one then it becomes a source of stress.
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It looks great in the photo.
Having parted cars out in the past with both time and space constraints, it is not a very fun endeavor.
If you do, just remember to get video of the engine running and a compression test before you remove something that would prevent you from showing a potential buyer later.
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How long till you're out of school? Do you drive it year round?
If you really like the car and it drives well and isn't unsafe to drive, I'd just keep driving it for now especially if you've done a ton of maintenance and upkeep. It may not be a show winner with rust (mine sure isn't), but reliable transportation you know well compared to something new and questionable is worth something while you're in school.
Ditto
In it's current state the M3 is worth more to you then to someone else or in parts. You know what you have. if it's reliable transportation while in school that still puts a smile on your face keep it and run it into the ground. We all need a good winter beater. Once done with school, you can put the effort into a project car. Then you'll find that the trusty rusty M3 still has a purpose in keeping the wi winters from eating your project.
With the rust and high mileage the resale value of the M3 specific parts will be somewhat limited, and beyond that its a rusty E36 coupe chassis with 220k on it.
The effort is better placed in your studies. Parting cars still involves your time in managing ,disassembly and pack/ship of parts.
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It boils down to if you have a) the space for a carcass to sit, and b ) time. You should easily be able to part out that car for 3k+.
The downside is the e36 market is full of stancebois and drift missle pilots looking for everything for nothing. Prepare to deal with a lot of people who jag you around endlessly and then likely just stop communicating all together.
If you have the space, and the patience, then part er out. If you dont have those two things, just dump it as a complete car.
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Thanks for all the input guys, I have a year of school left after this year and you guys convinced me to continue to enjoy the car for now! I store it in the winter so at least it's not getting much worse. After I graduate I'll look for a clean shell or move on to another car
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