the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
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For sensors I always use Genuine or if I know who the OE was I would buy that because it is cheaper and usually has the BMW logo ground off. FCPEuro for the crank position sensor has Genuine for 148.99 and one listed as OEM for 64.99, and also a Meyle one for much cheaper that shows made in China. I would for sure NOT buy the Meyle one but I would probably buy the OEM one, a review said it had a spot where a logo was ground off. I'm not sure why they don't specify the actual brand, maybe they are requested not to? Dunno?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/325i/Crankshaft-Position-Sensor?year=1994&e=177&m=20&page=1
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Is be willing to bet the Genuine BMW knock sensor is a bosch sensor with an absurd markup. I’d run the bosch ones
I would put money on that as well. Go with the Bosch. Much cheaper and likely the same thing.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/325i/Knock-Sensor?year=1994&e=177&m=20&page=1
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I'll confirm. Buy OE. I've had too many sensors fail out of the box to buy cheap sensors anymore.
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obd1 throttle body
Oem MAF sensor
obd1 fuel rail
obd1 valve cover
6 coil packs
One quick question for the obd1 sensors I will be needing...Should I go all genuine bmw parts for those? I honestly really don't want to spend close to $400 on 5 sensors, there's also a m50 out in the junk yard with 220,000 miles but its got all the sensors I need and in good condition, just looking for recommendations here. Thx!
You need to come to my 24v parts stash good sir. I'll round up the remaining stuff I have.
I think I have sensors (need to double check if obd)I keep 24v stuff around for some reason, but now I have zero vehicles that can use it. Should really clean the shelves off lol.
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You need to come to my 24v parts stash good sir. I'll round up the remaining stuff I have.
I think I have sensors (need to double check if obd)I keep 24v stuff around for some reason, but now I have zero vehicles that can use it. Should really clean the shelves off lol.Â
Alright, well if you want to throw me a text when you have time of what you got that would be sweet!
Here's a list of all the rest of the stuff I will be needing to have the motor ready to put in the car (or at least 98% of it)...
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I have the belt and I think I should have a spare set of rad hoses depending on the radiator you're using.
I have a set of delrin bolt thru trans mounts.
I had a set of e28 motor mounts floating around. I'll see if I can find them.ÂIf you need help rebuilding vanos I have done it a couple of times now, it's not complicated, and the manual for it is quite good.Â
What flywheel are you using?
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I have the belt and I think I should have a spare set of rad hoses depending on the radiator you're using.
I have a set of delrin bolt thru trans mounts.
I had a set of e28 motor mounts floating around. I'll see if I can find them.ÂIf you need help rebuilding vanos I have done it a couple of times now, it's not complicated, and the manual for it is quite good.Â
What flywheel are you using?
Probably gonna do the Mishimoto e36 radiator. Delrin is a bit stiff for me, was planning on running something a bit softer like a 95a poly for the motor and trans mounts.
M20 flywheel
Where did you order your rebuild kit for your vanos from?
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Don’t forget the cam sensor o ring
New valve cover rubber grommet things are also nice. Old ones are usually rock hard
FWIW I ordered beisan systems stuff as well for the vanos
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So the other day I was experiencing some issues cleaning my ps pump. Brake cleaner just wasn't cutting it.
As I have the availability to a good parts cleaner I decided I would take advantage and just rebuild the whole unit at the same time.
New rebuild kit on the way, got the pump all dissembled last night...
All in all the disassembly was fairly easy. One thing that did give me shit was the little snap ring that held the shaft into the casing. Took 2 pricked fingers and a small flat head partly up my finger nail to get it out.
Luckily the refresh kit does come with a new ring as I did end up slightly bending this one to get it out.
Things also ordered and on the way: All needed Sensors, aluminum water pump pulley, and some misc. sensor o rings. Also received my vanos seals the other day, gonna try to get to rebuilding it this weekend possibly but the rush isn't to large as I am still waiting on my frickin cylinder head to get back!
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Motor is no longer in the basement!
So the shop is now ready to go for the winter project. I decided that its time the motor comes out of the basement before it gains any more weight. No plan was made prior to this attempt. Simply called a friend up telling him I needed a hand with something for 10 minutes. Half hour later he showed up and we carried the thing right up the stairs. Now I'm not gonna say it was a piece of cake cause it honestly wasn't. It was still very heavy and trying to handle it while walking up the stairs backwards was as bad as it sounds. All I can say is that I'm really REALLY glad that the head was not on that thing. Not sure we would have gotten it up the stairs if it had been.
As for the cylinder head, I talked with my machinist and he has been swamped with work lately and was confident that he was gonna get my head done by the end of this week so we will see.
Brought the car over this last Friday!
\\Saturday I had other items to attend to but luckily I got all that stuff finished and out of the way.
This morning had a tasty breakfast and headed on over to the shop to begin tear down...
Got a pretty decent chunk of stuff done today. Almost have everything on the motor disconnected from the car except for the A/C lines and shifter linkages from the transmission underneath. I would have been able to get to the A/C today but the system still has refrigerant in it. I did talk to one of my buddy's dad on the phone today who's in HVAC and he's gonna find out tomorrow if they have a refrigerant recovery system around their shop and get back to me. As for everything else, the car seems to be looking good so far. Everything except for this...
Had to disconnect the ecu from the engine harness so Idiot me decided that I would remove the hangers from the glove box before disconnecting it from the hinge in the back. Well, when I did the box hit the floor and I heard a snap as it completely broke of the hinge. Looks like I'll be looking for another glove box.
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Glad you were able to get it out of the basement!
I have an extra glove box in good shape if you're interested.Â
I'll keep that in mind. Thx!
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Mike, bad news. I have mentally associated your username with your profile photo to the point where I think you are a 13 year old kid. So every update leaves me imagining a middle schooler wrenching on an S52. Â
Hopefully a different pic will help cure you from these absurd images.
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4 bangers...be gone!
Rack is out as well. Struggled for a while trying to get the shaft + u joint disconnected but she wouldn't budge. I'll Mess around with it some more tomorrow. May also have a lead on a 98 m3 steering rack for a decent price, not gonna get my hopes up though.
Few more parts showed up today for the motor. N54 exhaust studs and nuts, exhaust manifold gaskets, NGK iridium spark plugs, oem belt, valve cover grommets, intake gaskets, vanos gasket, and a few other little things.
Hoping to get the front and rear sub frames off and the rest of the suspension out tomorrow and Friday as well as the rest of the ac lines and condenser removed. More updates to come!
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Having dicked around with the steering system a bit too much, here are some of my lessons learned for dealing with the steering joint.Â
Drill out rivets and replace steering flex disk with new unit using the replacement BMW "Fit bolts" (higher precision shoulder bolts, wave washers, and oval lock nuts)., urethane versions are also available from Revshift and others. This will allow you to separate the steering joint for ease of install/removal.
installing the steering joint pieces first, then bolting up the flex disk seems to be the easiest way to go about it.
Wedge a screwdriver into the slot to help split the collar to help with install/removal.
Make sure you take note of the way the steering joint is on the rack right now as the splines are different between the rack and the steering shaft. This is more obvious when the engine is out but far less obvious and prone to wrecking the steering joint splines when in a dark garage under the car with the engine in place/
Apply a little bit of grease to the splines
If you install an E36 rack you will need to grind the steering shaft opening in the firewall a bit larger
The 32mm collar nut that retains the steering shaft halves together under the dashboard needs to be VERY snug to avoid having a light clunk/thud in the steering. You may want to use blue loctite on the threads because it can loosen up a tad over time.
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Drill out rivets and replace steering flex disk with new unit using the replacement BMW "Fit bolts" (higher precision shoulder bolts, wave washers, and oval lock nuts)., urethane versions are also available from Revshift and others. This will allow you to separate the steering joint for ease of install/removal.
This is brilliant. Why have I not thought of this before. I'm doing that this winter.
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May also have a lead on a 98 m3 steering rack for a decent price, not gonna get my hopes up though.
The 96+ M3 rack will be an upgrade over the stock unit, but it's not much different than the standard e36 rack so a price premium isn't worth it. The actual ratio is the same, but its travel is limited due to the M3's geometry (Hence 3.2 vs 3.4 turns lock to lock, same ratio just less travel).Â
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=172261
I have a non-m Z3 rack in my car, and it is hands down my favorite thing I've done to it so far. The liner rate is amazing, it's really not touchy on the freeway like some people say. You can find a low mileage Z3 rack for under $200 pretty easily. You can tell it's the short ratio/linear rack because of the plated steel body as opposed to being entirely cast aluminum, though you should probably verify the part numbers on realoem in case they were swapped at some point:
These don't have a ton of information but you could get the part number or pictures from the sellers to confirm, both cars would've come with the 2.8 turn linear rack:
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Damn you joe
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