the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
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Your o2 could have also been fouled if it's consuming enough oil to end up coming out of the tail pipe
o2 was definitely pretty dirty so I cleaned that up but I did another code check on the system and I no longer have either of the codes listed above and instead have one code, 1281 (control unit memory supply). Whats the chances that being anything other then a bad ecu?
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someone said:
I have no heat. Over the time that the car was being re-built I temporarily shoved paper towels in the heater core inlet and outlet ports to avoid any dirt getting in the heater core so I can't see it being clogged. Also, I do remember the heat working with no issues before the engine (M42) came out so I doubt it’s the heater core at all and the blower motor works without flaw, but I only get cold air. I will be starting with the heater controls and making sure its not something net working right there.
occam's razor: did you remember to take the paper towels out?
second idea: needs a proper bleed. i believe m42s share the challenges of e36 24v engines (get the front end up high, massage her gently, say sweet things into her ear)
the coolant system is relatively simple. clogged core, dead water pump, dead blower, and trapped air are the only things that will cause no heat.
Dan
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occam's razor: did you remember to take the paper towels out?
second idea: needs a proper bleed. i believe m42s share the challenges of e36 24v engines (get the front end up high, massage her gently, say sweet things into her ear)
the coolant system is relatively simple. clogged core, dead water pump, dead blower, and trapped air are the only things that will cause no heat.
Ya paper towels came out lol.
Water pump is solid
blower motor works fine
I suppose trapped air is a possibility but I thought I did a pretty good job using the air lift tool and the system held vacuum great with no leaks.
My guess comes down to either somehow a clogged heater core or possible faulty heater check valve, that is where I think I will start.
Just in case, check to make sure you installed the new setup's hoses to the heater core correctly (inlet/outlet). With everything else going on in a swap, mix ups can happen.
I will definitely double check this but I am fairly certain I had them routed correctly.
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Update!
Got to work last weekend on pulling the rear sub frame.
Took me about an hour and a half total to drop out of the car, man is it nice when everything is fresh and easy to pull apart.
First things first, got the diff pulled out and got the new seals installed.
Replaced the output shaft seals and lock rings as well as the o-rings to seal the outer section.
Pulled the trailing arms off and came up with a little fix for my eccentric hardware.
I bolted one arm back up and just lightly tightened it and wow, much better. Hopefully wont be having any more issues there.
Last thing I gotta do is figure my dust shields out so I can install my-e-brake system and then I can install the new bushings and slide the sub-frame right back in.
After this is in, I will be working on fixing the y-pipe on the exhaust.
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force flush the heater core via the hoses at the firewall. if it wont flush in the correct direction of flow, try reverse flush and see if any muck comes out. (i know its a giant PITA due to needing to remove the intake mani.)
Dan
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force flush the heater core via the hoses at the firewall. if it wont flush in the correct direction of flow, try reverse flush and see if any muck comes out. (i know its a giant PITA due to needing to remove the intake mani.)
Speaking from experience?
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🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
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🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Speaking from experience?
pulled the intake mani thrice last year. 3rd time was a breeze but its annoying doing all that just to get to a pair of hose clamps.
Dan
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About time for another update...
E brake dust plates are fixed. Originally my plan was to pull the wheel bearings and hub in order to replace with new until a friend a mine came up with an idea for just reinforcing the holes in order to save myself a lot of work of pressing in new bearings and what not. Simply just cut out 4 pieces with 14 gauge stainless to the shape of the inner con-caved area and cut a new shape for the holes where the pins come through. Welded them in and re-painted the area with por-15.
Before re-attaching the trailing arms I went ahead and pulled the RTAB's and re lubed them all.
Keep them nice and quite.
New modified sub-frame bushings lubed and pressed in as well as spacers for the differential.
With a couple extra helping hands we got er popped back in.
Super excited to see how she feels now that the eccentric hardware hopefully won't be walking all over the place and that I finally get my e-brake back.
Yup, that's about it.
O and one more thing... She's gettin a turbo
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I'm excited to see my old stuff going to good use!
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Diagram from The Book of E30 Ownership
someone said:
before e30 turbo announcement:
perpetually non-running e30s ---------------------you-----running e30s
after e30 turbo announcement:
perpetually non-running e30s -------------you-------------running e30s
after e30 turbo installation:
perpetually non-running e30s -you-----------------------running e30s
Dan
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More updates!
For the last week I have been enjoying the nice warm weather of Arizona. I got back Saturday and on Sunday I headed on over to the shop and got a couple more things accomplished.
As for the rear end, I still had to re-install the brakes and got my e brake installed and dialed in, feels great!
After going through and torquing everything in the rear end I moved on to the next big thing I needed to get out of the way, fixing the exhaust. After some cutting of the y-pipe my buddy stopped by and fab'd up some small pie cuts to raise it and then tacked them in place.
Once that was secured I got the fluids drained and everything disconnected on the motor to be pulled.
raised the motor enough to get the headers pulled with ease. Threw em on the bench and welded em back up.
With the exhaust finished up and soon off to its new owner I can now turn my attention to getting the motor pulled and prepped.
After I got out of class today, I spent a couple hours over at the shop getting the motor pulled completely out of the car. Ya, that's all I got done.
A few things on the to do list before she goes back in...
- Pull the valve cover and re-torque all the head studs
- Pull the oil pan off to weld in the fitting for the oil drain line as well as a baffle for the pick up
- Replace the s52 oil filter with s54 housing
- Pull the trans to replace the input shaft seal as well as inspect the clutch
- Mount the turbo manifold and turbo
Also will need to do a bit of trimming to the battery tray in the engine bay to make room for the down pipe.
Progress is on hold tell this weekend where my goal is to hopefully get a few of these things done.
Stay tuned!
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Stay tuned!
This is something that should be in your research!
Getting after it I see! Good work!
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I yearn for a large garage that I could work on things year round.
Ya, I am pretty spoiled. I continue to remind my grandfather every chance I get how grateful I am to be able to use some of his shop space for my projects, I literally wouldn't be able to do this without it.
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Mike when he starts to realize what he got himself into for tuning and wiring.
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