E30 M52
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So you saved $50ish but gained lead poisoning...
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It doesn't feel the same in your hand
Phrasing?
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I received a few final pieces to finish rebuilding the oil pump. The new outer rotor has a .002" larger diameter than the old one which in itself will increase/restore pump performance substantially.
The overpressure relief springs had an evident difference in length and stiffness . The new one being longer and stiffer and better for preventing any early bleed-off of pressure. The new o-ring was badly needed as well.
The Achillies upgraded pump shaft comes with a bolt instead of a nut, a new sprocket (has flats instead of splines, a bmw sprocket will not work on this shaft) and safety wire.
I also received the little cam tray dowel I needed. Lets see if I can finally get these stupid camshafts installed this weekend
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(Reserved for backhanded comment about you doing torques wrong)
Dan
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I want to believe you aren't doing something wrong, but I'm having a very hard time doing so.
I've rebuilt many of these motors, and the only time I had a stripped thread was the small torx screws that go into the timing cover.Those cam caps are a glorified hand tight, so I don't quite see how you are having so many issues.
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Let me know when you are ready to work on this again. I will stop by and supervise to provide the final word on whether or not you are right or the cylinder head threads are.
2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
2007 Z4MR
2003 E39 M5
2002 E46 M3
2021 X5 40i -
You know there are different tightening torques for M6, M7 and M8 bolts right? Are you sure you don't have M6 bolts? Those are only torqued to 7ft/lbs.
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How do you have the camshaft? Could you take a picture of what you are doing? I am confused (easily). When I swapped an intake cam I had it turned so only the #1 cylinder lobes were down and tightened that cap first to compress the valve springs and my helper was holding the cam with a wrench to prevent it from turning while I installed the other caps and torqued it down. I think I might have needed longer bolts because the studs weren't long enough to get the nuts started. and then once all of the others were installed I rotated it so there was no pressure on that spot and removed the bolts and put the studs back on. It was a while ago and I was installing an m54b30 cam.
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You know there are different tightening torques for M6, M7 and M8 bolts right? Are you sure you don't have M6 bolts? Those are only torqued to 7ft/lbs.
Most definitely M7.
How do you have the camshaft? Could you take a picture of what you are doing? I am confused (easily). When I swapped an intake cam I had it turned so only the #1 cylinder lobes were down and tightened that cap first to compress the valve springs and my helper was holding the cam with a wrench to prevent it from turning while I installed the other caps and torqued it down. I think I might have needed longer bolts because the studs weren't long enough to get the nuts started. and then once all of the others were installed I rotated it so there was no pressure on that spot and removed the bolts and put the studs back on. It was a while ago and I was installing an m54b30 cam.
This is exactly how I am doing it. Cyl #1 lobes are the only ones under any valve spring pressure. Bearing cap #2 is installed first with a1/4 turn on each nut until its flush with the cam tray, then all other bearing caps are installed flush, then torqued evenly (1/4 turn on each nut) until it reaches 11 ft-lbs or the threads strip, whichever comes first.
At this point I am planning on having to repair every last one of them. If in some horrible nightmare I manage to start pulling-out the threads on the repaired holes, that's the point at which I will part it out, ban myself, lease a new Prius, and disappear from the car community forever.
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